ColinBarber

It does sound a little low. After a run it is worth checking to see if any wheels/brakes are excessively hot, you could have a sticking brake calliper.

Nothing illegal about using an OBDII reader. The use of Toyota's own Techstream software without a license is another matter. Plenty of generic OBD software programs you can use for free which will allow you to clear any fault codes. Just disconnecting the battery will also clear the codes. If after that you still are getting warnings then there is a reoccurring fault. If you can use an OBD reader to get the fault code(s) we can certainly help narrowing down the problem.

Yes this is very notable on the IS300h. Not sure why the hybrid system fights against the brakes so much, certainly worse than other hybrid models I've driven.

Vais tech. have the best iPod / aux in adapters for Lexus vehicles but they are expensive. http://www.vaistech.com

difficult to know how much engine noise comes through the bulkhead and how much through the bonnet and windscreen. Very difficult to further soundproof the bulkhead as the whole dashboard would need to be removed. Adding extra insulation to the bonnet is much easier. Products like dynamat / hoodliner are used mainly by audio installers but are useful just to make a vehicle less noisy.

The petrol engine is quieter, smoother, better performance, mpg isn't that bad especially when factoring in the cheaper fuel. Given your lowish mileage I cannot see why you would want a diesel Lexus.

Probably not. It is illegal to have a vehicle unattended with the engine running on a public road in the UK, I cannot see a manufacturer offering a remote start due to legal issues - even if they stipulated it could only be used on private property somebody would try and sue....

The 450h is better but if your battery is long in the tooth and lost some of its capacity then it won't last as long as it once did. Normal advise from Lexus/Toyota is to disconnect a battery from the vehicle's electrics before charging, even just a trickle charge. Personally I don't bother but if possible I'd connect directly to the battery rather than using the remote contacts for charging - if it is a true trickle charge then I don't see an issue using the remote contacts.

this is difficult to do because the vehicle has an immobiliser which is built into the engine ECU, with the other part being your ignition key. You cannot really bypass the immobiliser within the ECU so other than fixing the internals of a spare key near the ignition barrel I cannot see another way - and I'm not sure your insurance company would be too happy with that arrangement.

If we assume all the sensors are ok then you have a leak in the exhaust or the cats aren't working correctly. The new errors P0420 and P0430 are produced by the downstream sensors, ones located after the cats which crudely try and determine if the cats are working well. There are typically three reasons that produce this fault: The upstream sensors are faulty which means the oxygen levels in the exhaust gases are different to what the downstream sensors expect to detect (hard to believe that both banks would have the same fault) If you have a hole in the exhaust then it will affect the amount of oxygen the sensor detects and so trigger an error. (again hard to believe both exhaust systems would have the same issue) The cats aren't working correctly It is rare that a downstream sensor itself is faulty which triggers this fault, and again you wouldn't have both with the same issue. If you have removed cats and the rear sensors are downstream of those cats then it is correctly detecting an inefficiency - this is when you use simulators to fool the ECU into thinking the readings from the downstream sensors are correct.

Even if the compressor isn't engaged? No probably not, but I'd class that as the AC not being on. ;) Certainly if you are set to auto on the climate control and you haven't manually switched off the AC settings then when you first 'start' your car then the compressor will come on and the fans will start, even before the petrol engine fires up.

Their new system looks quite good. Remote operation of engine start, windows, door locks, and warning alerts if your car goes over a certain speed if you lend it to somebody - all from your smartphone.

Setting any personal opinions aside, for the protection of LOC we do not allow the discussion of illegal activities on these forums. If people has an issue with Techstream then you should seek advise from your supplier or Toyota.

The activity of circumventing anti-piracy measures and the unlicensed use of Toyota's software is not for these forums.

I prefer the first ones.

Ask over on our sister site TOC (http://www.toyotaownersclub.com) There are far more Avensis and Auris vehicles sold which use the same engine so more experience.

The current sensor could be bad, but also the generator itself. Or a fault in the ECU triggering incorrect DTCs.

P0171 and P0174 are errors from the upstream sensors, before the cats so this doesn't have anything to do with the cats or back part of the exhaust. Given that both banks are producing an error it also really eliminates the sensors as well (unless they have both been damaged). You need to look at something common to both banks, mainly on the induction side of the engine after to MAF, or the MAF itself. Try cleaning the MAF, if you have an oiled air filter the MAF sensor wire could be coated in oil which will affect the fueling. Normally the ECU will use the sensor data and look up table to provide the correct fueling. The O2 sensors are then used as a closed-loop system to correct any error. You are way outside of normal operation, the long term trim are right over and the ECU has had enough and triggered the CEL. As these are engine too rich errors I wouldn't have thought the problem is an air leak in the induction - you would expect it to be too lean. One possibility to too high a fuel pressure which would affect all cylinders, or clogged air filter.

It is the same as 'normal' car. It uses the heat from the engine coolant. If you have the climate control on and set to a temperature higher than it actually is it will use engine heat. If the coolant isn't hot enough it will force the engine to run - this is one reason why economy really drops in cold weather. The only thing that is different from some 'normal' cars is that the AC is electric rather than being mechanically driven off the engine - so it hot weather the petrol engine doesn't have to run to cool you.

It has had a new EGR valve and main cat. converter. Maybe it did have all the other modified parts as well but they aren't on the list.

Autotrader. They don't use your actual phone number, once you pull the advert the number associated is no longer linked to your phone so you don't get as many agents but you could still get some.

Any Toyota dealer should be able to.

The petrol engine doesn't actual fire, but it is engaged with the pistons going up and down to create a load - it creates more load then the generator can create by itself. Correct, the generator is used to turn over the petrol engine to start it. Yes I don't think you will achieve anything by going to a dealer - Their tech stream software will say the same as yours - there are no errors. You need to be careful playing around with techstream,

There is nothing wrong. The radiator fans will always spin if the AC is on, but they aren't spinning anywhere near full speed and has no impact on the engine warming up because the coolant won't be going around the radiator until the water temp is 90+ deg and the thermostat opens. The engine will take longer to heat up if you have the interior heating system on because the temperature is being taken out of the coolant to heat the cabin. If you are near freezing then your economy will fall. When the engine is first started it will run rich, the engine will run more to give you heat for the cabin (turn the climate control off and the system will go into EV much more), the hybrid battery will have less effective capacity because they just don't work as well in the cold, and you have many other things using energy such as lights, fans, demister etc.

The main reason Toyota change the brake fluid as part of their service schedule is because the absorbed water can corrode (rust) the brake pipes from the inside, leading to a brake failure if all the fluid escapes It is rare that a lexus dealer will test the condition of the fluid, they will just replace it according to the schedule. Unless you explicitly asked the dealer not to change the brake fluid it should have been changed on your old IS200?