ColinBarber

You can option up an F Sport to basically the same spec as a Premier, it certainly costs the same, if not more, so then it is just a choice of styling preference. But with the Premier you still get a couple of extras - the blind spot mirror and rear traffic crossing alert for example and you can add the adaptive cruise control which isn't an option on the F Sport.

Not sure all but it would affect a lot. This is located in the engine bay, one of the large square fuses at the top. I think you need to unbolt the fusebox so you can get to the retaining bolt under the fuse - obviously disconnect the battery first.

The auto boxes are fine.

There are plenty of fuses in the engine bay and in the cabin, have they all been checked? Door locking for example uses the Door DL 15A fuse and MPX-B 10A fuse - however these are fed from the ECU-B1 20A fuse and the ALT 120A fuse.

Lexus will change those under warranty. Mine are currently fine with the silver paint intact.

I'd look for an SE with the Nav option. You would get the power tailgate without air suspension. Bluetooth was added in July 2005 to vehicles fitted with Nav. You could fit an aftermarket system but you won't have the same functionality (steering wheel buttons for example). There is a mute wire for the stereo which allows phone integration.

Sorry to hear this Colin, I can understand your frustration and disappointment. Unfortunately I think you will be luckily to get Lexus to help you out given that they have already provided an additional 4 year warranty to the car, essentially as a 'good will' gesture. A line has to be drawn somewhere, even if it was 4 weeks over 7 years they would be unlikely to help. Sale of goods act gives you a case against the dealership rather than the manufacturer, depending on when you purchased the vehicle you could have some luck - if it was purchased new then after 7 years I don't think it would be unreasonable to expect repairs to a vehicle, but if you purchased it 12 to 18 months ago and now face a repair bill that is a significant percentage of the vehicle's value then you are in better shape to have at least some compensation.

Anything wrong with the Lexus ones? Lexus typically rebadge Thule so the option is there to go direct but they may not sell for the NX yet given that it hasn't been out long.

The cost of manufacturing the engine really has nothing to do with the sticker price of the vehicle on the forecourt. There is no question that the 300h drivetrain is more expensive than the 200t to produce however Lexus believe that somebody who wants the extra performance is willing to pay for it. Personally I think sales will be very low unless they start discounting it.

according to Denso's European website they don't market a direct fit sensor in the Europe, they only list DOX-0109 as universal fit downstream sensor which means you have to cut and solder the wiring, no upstream A/F sensors. http://www.denso-am.eu/e-catalogue/ Use Denso's US site to find the correct part codes and order from a supplier in the US, for example rockauto http://densoautoparts.com/find-my-part/vehicle-selection

I would never expect two sensors to fail at exactly the same time - it could happen but very unlikely. For the heater circuits within the sensor that is like two headlight bulbs going at exactly the same time, and not just burning out but creating a much more unlikely short. Personally I'd want to check voltage is getting to the heater pins on the sensor(s) first and check the wiring back to a connect connector block. The heaters are also potentially driven via a relay which could be checked. Another possibility is the ECU could have just been having a moment, I'd clear the codes and only proceed if the errors come back.

it is only the hybrids that have a CVT. The 2005-2010 GS300 has a 6-speed automatic transmission.

Was the new upstream sensor replaced with a genuine Denso sensor? Has the MAF sensor been cleaned? Any air leaks in the exhaust before or around the downstream sensor? Is there a reason for both cats being replaced, given that the error is just on one bank? I've never heard of a Lexus dealer supplying non-genuine parts - that's a quick way to lose your franchise.

Most will read the codes they just may not have the manufacturer specific codes in the database to tell you what it means. There are many posts on here from people purchasing USB based readers from sources such as eBay for very little money. It's the all in one handheld scanners that aren't much use unless you spend a reasonable about on them.

So I raised my pressures but it didn't really make a difference. It appears a TSB has been issued for vehicles built before Aug 2013 for Notchy Steering feeling. Looks like the whole power steering link assembly needs to be replaced - part number is the same so it isn't a redesign, more of a manufacturing issue with the initial batch of parts. I'll be speaking to my dealer in the next few days.

Most readers should be able to correct pull all the codes, even the cheap £10 readers that connect to a computer on eBay. Really any mechanic should be able to help.

The problem with the air/fuel ratio sensors is that they can test ok, in that they respond quickly to rich/lean conditions in a relative way but their actually reading can go off a little - unless you put in a new sensor to compare results it can be difficult to be 100% confident. I'm sure your existing cats are less efficient than the new ones will be so it will improve or fix the issue, best of luck :)

Forcing EV mode by pressing the button isn't recommended unless you are doing it for an explicit reason, e.g. just moving your vehicle off the driveway, or if you know you are approaching road conditions where you will get a large amount of regeneration to charge the battery back up. It is typically more efficient to let the vehicle come in and out of EV mode automatically.

It sounds like a problem with the audio amplifier or its wiring.

do you still have any of the failed junction block assemblies?

I have my trip information on the dashboard set to show mpg from start up - if I'm doing small journeys around town from cold (say 2 to 4 miles max) I would get between 25 to 35 mpg depending on the weather. I tend not to use the car for those journeys and end up using the wife's car. Currently I'm averaging around 45 mpg to the tank based on 15 miles journeys to/from work.

I'd be more inclined to think it is the air/fuel ratio sensors (Oxygen sensors) rather than the MAF, I doubt you would see much improvement compared to your cleaned MAF. Is your air filter clean?

In the US? They are obsessed with changing oil every few thousand miles. In the UK the 10,000 mile interval is fine - no engine issues because of it.

It could be that the upstream air/fuel ratio sensors are on their way out and running the engine slightly rich, which would increase CO levels. Have your upstream sensors been replaced recently - they don't tend to last more than 10 years so I'd be surprised if you are still on the original ones. Otherwise yes the cats are probably in need of a replacement. The downstream oxygen sensor is meant to check for cat efficiency but it is certainly possible that the cat will fail an emissions test before the check engine light comes on.

Urban should always be better than motorway in a hybrid unless it is very short runs. Requires a change in driving technique to get the best out of it - not just avoiding hard acceleration but when at cruising speed lifting off and then pressing the accelerator down gently to maintain speed which will trigger the use of electric power.