ColinBarber

you can get online access at Lexus' official site, subscription is time based but only a couple of £ for an hour: http://www.lexus-tech.eu in the past you could download the sections you were interested in, now I believe it is all online only. You should be able to test the sensor rather than having to purchase one - depending on what test equipment you have access to.

There is a known problem with the timing belt where it can be worn down and eventually fail. The engine is an interference design so valves can hit the pistons, I know this has happened to members here but you can also be lucky and have the top half of the engine stop with valve only partially open so nothing is damaged. Only a visual inspection or compression test will tell you for sure.

the kit is almost impossible to get hold of now too :(

It isn't a common fault of either the IS300 or GS300 which share the same gearbox. For that error code the issue in order of likelihood is: the front sensor wiring ECU a problem in the transmission which is causing an abnormal speed difference. I'd certainly start with the front sensor. I've attached the troubleshooting guide CIP0715.PDF

I guess there must be some CT200s and Auris hybrids over 100k miles but they aren't that old so number are limited. Still there are generation 3 Prius' out there with over 100k miles which share the same drivetrain - they are all fine, just standard servicing parts needed plus the odd oxygen sensor etc. There is no reason to suggest there won't be essentials servicing offered for the CT, but by definition the vehicle has to be over 5 years old to qualify and even the oldest CTs are early 2011 registrations, hence no mention as yet on the Lexus website.

Good luck with your search. I'd create a search on Autotrader for red IS200s and set an alert, they way you will be notified when a new advert is placed on the site - I wouldn't try and search for the aero kit as it could be described as all sorts of things so you could end up missing one.

looks nice and tidy, good job.

does this help: http://parts.jmlexus.com/catalog-4/diagram/lexus/2007/rx350/cooling-system/cooling/hoses-and-lines/8913057 I would think there is something more serious than just a stuck thermostat for the engine to stall.

The IS200 Amarillo yellow was a special edition in the summer of 2003 and is a sport with the sport body kit fitted as standard for a reduced price. There aren't many around. To my knowledge there wasn't such a thing in red; any IS200 sport could be fitted with the optional TTE sport body kit - be that in red, black, blue etc.

Welcome Carly :)

This seems worse on older vehicles, certainly noticed it more on my 400h as it got older - I'm guessing the engine mounts start to loosen up.

You don't need the 6 speed Getrag box found in the manual Supra MKIV TT, but the non-turbo gearbox made by Toyota/Aisin, also found in the IS300 (USA), SC300, older Celica/Supras

does it not have an oil cooler inside the main radiator assembly too?

only a tooth or two, any more and it probably won't.

just a pan drain and refill takes 2 litres. A dry fill of the whole transmission is 8.2 litres. If you are flushing then you would need at least 10 litres to achieve a complete replacement. A lot of fluid is held in the torque converter and valve body which you cannot get out easily. Then there is the fluid going to/from the external cooler etc. The safest way to achieve a full change is drain/refill the pan and then disconnect a pipe to the cooling and 0.5 litre at a time start the engine, let it pump out, turn off, add 0.5 litre back through the dipstick and repeat until the fluid changes colour. You will want to move through the gears to make sure all the fluid moves around the valve body. Personally you are better off just doing a few pan drain and refills over a short time to dilute the old fluid and then one drain/refill every two years.

I would imagine the engine would not start if the cam sensor was disconnected. Also the timing belt would have to slip quite a bit for the engine not to at least try and start, normally one tooth out and it will start but just run poorly or throw up a VVTi error. Yes the crankshaft pulley is keyed and there are timing marks on it and the cams. You should be able to check this by just removing the top part of the belt cover so shouldn't take too long. I've attached the belt removal/replace procedures which so the timing markings. m_em_0020.pdf m_em_0026.pdf

Hopefully what you have done will solve the issues but also check to make sure all the earth straps and -ve battery connection are non-corroded and tight.

The IS F spec is meant to match the spec of the IS250 SE-L plus PCS/ACC and multimedia. Therefore they should all have auto-dimming door mirrors. Typically the door mirror dimming is controlled by the interior rear view mirror - it has the sensor and the on/off control and wires from there go to the external mirrors. This is certainly the way it works on my old 400h and my current IS300h - I don't have a wiring diagram for the series II IS but I can only imagine it is the same. Quite easy to test, shine a torch at the sensor on the rear view mirror and see if they dim.

Mintex pads are normally good, I've had no experience with Mtec.

You can visually check the radar module which sits behind the Lexus logo on the grille to make sure nothing is in front of it. Other than that there isn't much you can do. Your dealer can recalibrate it if that is all the issue is otherwise it is likely to be a faulty component. Your radio not losing presets is normal, it stores those even if the battery is disconnected.

Yes the 400h should be using the same part.

what version is the one owners can download from the portal? It has the filename of 13LHENEU-BB01_0012-3, I'm sure it is one of the early ones so maybe the dealer is just checking that rather than the downloads they can get as a dealer.

The wheels don't have a Toyota colour code because they aren't painted by Toyota, they come from their OEMs. 1E3 should always be the same, there certainly shouldn't be 5 shades, however it is a body colour not a wheel colour.

ideally they should have put some oil into the cylinder and tested again - if the pressure increased then the issue is down to the piston rings or cylinder bore rather than the valves or cylinder head gasket. Without having any idea where the problem is it is difficult to advise. The low compression may not actually be the issue if it is only slightly low, it could be a fuel injector. Unless you really like the car it would probably be better to get a full refund and find another one.