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ColinBarber

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Everything posted by ColinBarber

  1. there are a few ways: With it in Park, press the acc to start the engine, shift into Neutral and then release the pedals - the engine should keep running. crank the heating up to full should keep it running for a while and there is an inspection mode on the RX, similar to the Prius, but not sure of the procedure.
  2. The system has many sensors and failsafe mechanisms to prevent damage but it isn't something you should be doing. On the 400h there is even a reset procedure that involves loading the engine at 45% for 30 seconds with your foot on the brake so a few seconds isn't an issue however they warn you not to do it for longer than 40 seconds so there is heat build up.
  3. If it was the same dealer, or at least if your local dealer is within the same dealer network, then there may be the option to discuss discounted servicing. Once you have negotiated a price then try and get some extras, such as new mats or an updated sat nav map etc. Don't start there otherwise they won't lower the price. They will probably be resistant to lowering the sticker price, stating that the vehicles are rare. However that works the other way too, dealers are often stuck with IS Fs for months with its book value dropping every week.
  4. Yes you are correct. I would try and negotiate a full warranty, maybe even a full two year package, as part of the deal.
  5. A K&N panel filter probably won't decrease power as they flow quite well but the level of filtration is less than a Toyota filter - plenty of tests have proven that over the years.
  6. Bored with this and all off topic so closing the thread.
  7. Haynes will never do a modern Lexus as there aren't enough vehicles sold to justify the cost to produce. Alldatadiy.com is a good source but it is American based so isn't much good for a European only model such as the 220D.
  8. There is no doubt that Stig would have taken it around the track. In their view it would have been a waste of time to show it on the programme.
  9. The RX is unlikely be as good as the LS for fuel consumption. I suspect you will get around 27 mpg.
  10. Whilst the vehicle is a 2001 the engine design is 1991 and so uses a belt. The belt should have been changed when the vehicle was 10 years old so it may have already been done.
  11. Are you talking to a salesman or somebody from service? If service you should consider going elsewhere if they know that little about your vehicle.
  12. I've never seen one in real life but the pictures look good. Yellow is one of those colours were the owner gets screwed - if the person/dealer selling knows you want that colour then they will hold out for more money however come to sell it and a dealer will give you a poor trade in as they claim they can't sell them :( I had a yellow MR2 back in the day - very nice, and you could always find your car in the carpark just by looking where a swarm of insects were flying about.
  13. Toyota/Lexus are very specific about what grease should be used however it seems a lot of dealers don't even follow the recommendations. It can be ordered from your dealer. Personally I use Bosch superfit brake lubricant mainly because I couldn't find the Toyota part code at the time I needed some.
  14. yes, there was a post about this a week or two ago. Mine seems to come from the rear brakes.
  15. not at that age and and IS300. If service intervals are every 10k then the belt will be 100k or 10 years, whichever occurs first.
  16. you could cut out and change the mesh, but the rest is all part of the bumper.
  17. If you were lucky and the valves were all out of the way it wouldn't matter how many times you tried, you would still be okay - however that is unlikely. I guess the cheapest way to find out would be to use an inspection camera through the plug holes to take a look - otherwise you have to pay for the head to be removed.
  18. Lithium soap based Glycol grease is the recommended stuff to use.
  19. Probably the wrong grease has been used and the bushing is swollen. Also using too much grease will create a seal and therefore air will be trapped when you push in the pin, leading to the pin pushing out on its own. You should really purchase a new pin and bush, and then only use a pea sized amount of brake grease to cover the whole of the sliding pin (after completely cleaning out the hole it goes into).
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