ColinBarber

There is no module or anything sophisticated, just dedicated wiring for each function back to the body ECU. 1 - Tail light 2 - Indicator 3 - Ground 4 - Brake light Are the voltage levels the same both sides? You might have high resistance on the ground where is goes onto the body and therefore the light cannot function correctly.

As the ACIS valve is meant to open at high rpm I'd check that operating correctly and there isn't a vacuum leak when it tries to open at high rpm which then causes a problem as it goes back to idle. Just temporarily clamp both the hoses or disconnect the wiring (which will generate an engine check light) to see if it makes a difference. You can see it in this video - although I don't really recommend deleting it as suggested here for anything other than a test to help diagnose your issue as it can be detrimental to low end torque if it isn't working correctly.

That code is called Aleutian Grey in the UK.

They should be HID. You should see high voltage warning stickers on the rear of the lights/engine bay which would confirm.

For cars up to 10 years old you get a 1 year relax extended warranty as part of the service. They call it a free warranty but in reality it is part of the service cost and goes some way to explain why Lexus are extremely expensive to service compared to the competition.

You should be able to go old school on the pre-facelift series II GS (1998-2000) in the UK and just read the codes via flashing lights:

Seems like you made the right decision based on this comparison between the two brands https://insideevs.com/news/705255/hyundai-toyota-battle-ev/

Series IV launched in September for Jan 2016 deliveries. Some series III were still being registered in 2016. Personally I’d stay away from series IV if you live in a city. It might not get stolen if you fit plates but the insurance will continue to rise and now some companies won’t even quote.

Congrats on the new car Phil 👍 If you don't select either L or R on the mirror adjuster, the mirrors won't dip. Or if you allow them to dip, you can adjust the dipped position which is then saved for the next time - you could therefore adjust it to be the same as the normal position, or to dip just a small amount. The speedo will read over by design. You can get a diagnostic mode up on the nav screen which will display GPS speed, but might just be easier to get a GPS speed from your mobile phone? These are the permitted speedo ranges (mph) actual > allowed range: 40 → 42 to 44 80 → 83 to 87 120 → 125 to 129 160 → 166 to 171 200 → 208 to 213

Get some insurance quotes for both gens, potentially there could be a big difference starting to emerge.

HID bulbs do dim over time. Standard halogen bulbs don’t tend to dim that much, not sure if the extra bright ones are worse in that respect.

You need to look in the Nav manual not the main vehicle one for full details on the infotainment system. https://www.lexus.co.uk/owners/about-my-lexus/manuals

I found this related to the GS450h interior which launched around the same time (probably the same colours and names): Kismore Black leather, Grampian Grey leather, or Sutherland Ivory leather.

What's the 3 character paint code on the VIN plate? The colours initially available for the 400h in the UK were officially called: St Lucia Pearl, Platinum Ice, Aleutian Grey, Astral Black, Persian Quartz, Cherwell Green and Stafford Blue. I believe there were only 3 interior colours - Black, grey and cream, so that shelf would be the correct one. I don't know their names though.

Assuming your fuel regulator and pump are working correctly I'd suggest you get it on a rolling road so the sensors and injectors can be properly analysed. The only thing that should cause a fuel cut is the MAP sensor, and the fuel cut defender should be clamping its voltage below the cut off point (assuming it is adjusted correctly).

It depends on the model. The IS200 discussed here doesn't have wideband (air/fuel ratio) sensors, just standard O2 sensors. Virtually all modern engines will run in a closed loop mode using exhaust sensors (be that O2 or wideband ones) to obtain stoichiometric air fuel ratio - otherwise the three-way cats don't perform correctly. But even with wideband sensors, most engines will come out of closed loop under heavy acceleration and revert to the pre-programmed map within the ECU to correct fuel the engine.

The IS200 ECU cannot be remapped itself. A piggy back ECU can alter sensor readings to compensate for different requirements during acceleration etc. But once cruising and the system goes into closed-loop mode then the O2 sensors do the work. For heavily modified IS200s, people may choose to go with a standalone ECU because the stock fuelling system and map isn't enough. The symptoms above describe a fuel starvation problem and you would think possibly the injectors are dumping in more fuel that the fuel pump can supply. However unmodified, the IS200 ECU will cut the fuel if it detects pressure above a certain limit via the MAP sensor - the piggyback ECU /fuel cut defender will stop that happening - hence my comment above. https://www.soarsperformance.co.uk/product-page/lexus-is200-fuel-cut-defender-black-box

Hopefully someone can help but I feel you might have to pay Lexus as they never provided those to UK owners back then, unlike other European countries.

Tyre crabbing/skipping is a common issue that gets brought up here multiple times every winter (and on most other car forums too). Depending on the vehicle, tyre make/model, tyre pressure and ambient temperature you are likely to experience it when reversing (or sometimes going forward) on, or close to, steering lock. It is related to the fact that the wheel geometry is compromised at, or near, full lock and doesn't completely follow Ackermann geometry so one of the wheels isn't turning around a shared single position that the differentials cannot compensate for. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ackermann_steering_geometry One of the more 'popular' threads on the subject:

I'd make sure your piggyback ECU (or complete ECU replacement) is working correctly.

As per the 2023/24 ES Nav owner's manual, only USB drives up to 32 GB are supported.

Depending on how flat your battery is, you may need to leave it charging for several hours before you are able to open the vehicle. Don't connect a battery charger than is rated for over 5 amps, the vehicle's wiring to the bulb isn't designed to carry a large current.

These definitely last longer than the standard cheap blades: https://www.screwfix.com/p/stanley-fatmax-2-11-800-carbide-straight-knife-blades-10-pack/671jw

I wouldn't label Which? as motoring press, they have widely recommended hybrids for years.

It depends on the journeys you do but your figures are matching my wife's UX at the moment. I'd try using normal drive mode as a test, it can be better than eco depending on journeys and driving style. Ditch the runflats with something more economical when it comes time to replace them.