ColinBarber

Not a steering box as the RX doesn't have one as it uses rack & pinion steering - so could need a new rack (which you won't want to purchase new from Lexus). I suspect there are some bent steering/suspension components which hopefully would be cheaper than replacing the rack but I would have thought that would have been spotted when they did the alignment.

I highly doubt it, it's not listed in the service schedule. But it uses ATF WS fluid, if it can last a 'lifetime' in the gearbox then it should also be able to in the diff transfer module. The diff oil itself should be changed every 20k (major) service.

The fuel regulator itself is in the tank, not sure if it has an electronic pressure sensor or not. The following is the vacuum layout for your engine - I cannot tell where the feed comes from - you will need to follow it back into the intake somewhere (after the throttle body) and tee into it - I'd recommend doing it before any of the VSV valves so your readings aren't affected briefly as the open/close. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/toyota-japan/altezza/sxe10/153375/body/1708/25770

see here: I suspect the rubber has split and allowed water in the switch. Unless you can dry it out I suspect you will need a replacement switch, not just the rubber.

I'd have said that mainland Europe is the leading indicator and the US catching up. Growth is there but seems to be mainly driven by government subsidies at the moment - those subsidies prevent non-US built cars being competitive, and as a result many European manufacturers aren't making all their EV models available which limits consumer choice. https://insideevs.com/news/705215/us-plugin-car-sales-2023/ As above from Bill, the US is a big place and average journey lengths are much longer which means range issues can be real rather than just perceived as in Europe.

I believe it is built into the alarm siren, number 5 below. Not sure how you access it, either via the boot (removing trim) or via the cabin/seats. Certainly I would expect this to be connected via one of the fuses you probably did test - I imagine via one in the engine bay rather than in the cabin.

Cost control, and the fact that they like to have a consistent build for all countries (where possible). I suspect the UK is the only country where locking wheel nuts are part of an insurance rating. They do actually sell them as an accessory in the UK - but wheel theft isn't really a thing these days, and a locking wheel nut is easily defeated if someone actually wanted your wheels.

As above, aftermarket ones aren't great because the car doesn't have a special windscreen fitted that is needed to get a sharp display that appears projected outside of the car.

The alternator does go through a fuse but it's a 120 A bolt in fuse, not a little push in automotive one - there are several other higher current fuses that you wouldn't be able to test with your mini tester. Ideally you need an accurate DC clamp meter put on the main lead from the battery before any other circuits are branched off - that will give you the total coming from the battery (everything except tracking across the top of the battery if you have dirt and moisture on it - only a couple of milliamps but worth keeping the top of the battery clean). For the SC430 the common source of battery drain is the stereo amplifier. I would also check the alarm backup battery, which has no doubt failed by now and so the vehicle may well be constantly charging it.

Contact Lexus CS directly so they have your correct details.

Ideally it would be better to find your parasitic drain cause. By disconnecting the battery your engine ECU is always losing the stored fuel trims, engine idle position and gearbox shifting settings. If you are pulling fuses then you are unlikely to find the source as things aren't going into standby modes if power is being turned off/on. Ideally you need to fool the vehicle into thinking all doors are closed and wait 30 mins before measuring the voltage drop across the fuses, rather than taking them out.

Legally I don't believe they have to do that now, but I guess most dealers are used to doing so.

Sorry to hear this Mica. Unfortunately this type of theft is no longer contained to just London. P.S. I've merged your post with this larger one - having a single large thread on the subject will hopefully attract more attention than lots of single posts that get quickly lost.

Almost impossible even without P2D enabled. I believe they recently updated the phone app to stop the 'key' working if the phone hasn't been moved for a period of time, similar to the sleeping you get with physical key fobs. The refreshed M3 just launched also implements UWB, not that relay attacks are that practical with bluetooth anyway. Obviously a vulnerability might be discovered in the future, as with any car, but given the programmable nature of the vehicle its more likely that Tesla could fix an issue in software via an over the air update than Lexus could with the ES. Not sure all the security features are recognised by Thatcham, and no locking wheel nuts, means even the RWD model is in the highest insurance group.

I was wrong - there were two reds originally available in the UK, although they did drop the burgundy one after a couple of years 2018: 2020:

Fuses don't blow based on voltage or power just current. So it makes sense to use a common fuse for both 12v and 24v vehicles (with 24v vehicles commonly having voltages near 29v when charging). The voltage rating is more related to the gap between the fusible link inside the fuse which needs to be greater on higher voltage applications to stop arcing between the two points. I think all standard automotive fuses are slow blow - they should be able to work at the rating current indefinitely, but I would expect them to blow within a second or two if you doubled their capacity.

CT is based on the Auris. The CT's second facelift was very minor just to stretch out the vehicle for a few more years so there weren't any major electrical changes. Certainly the 2018 wiring diagrams I've seen still show simple LED headlights without any CAN connections to them. The Prius Gen 4 is vulnerable (2016 on). Not sure about the Prius C, that's a completely different platform to both the Prius and the CT, but your example seems to have been a relay attack - it was posted back in 2018 before the CAN bus vulnerability was being exploited. I'll try and track down some diagrams from the very latest models to check they aren't vulnerable.

Not the CT, but that’s not really relevant to this discussion.

Facelift models are technically vulnerable but not heard of any stolen this way on these forums. But they are rare and nothing really available after 2017 - if you already have an ES I’d assume you want something newer than that.

That’s partly because it’s an SUV. Trouble is if your preference is a saloon the your choice is limited these days.

Experiment with them to see which ones suits your driving style. Eco mode will dull the throttle response and reduce the AC performance to increase economy but some people find the throttle is too laid back and then end up getting frustrated and start over compensating and then using more fuel than in Normal mode. You might find it makes the vehicle more relaxing in start/stop traffic. Sport mode will increase throttle response and gives extra mid throttle performance by providing more battery assistance to the petrol engine. You will use more fuel because the petrol engine won't be turned off as much, and will start back up again sooner under less throttle.

It does sound like a stalk issue. The only other related part would be the clock spring. If you have had your car serviced by Lexus in the last 12 months then it would be covered under Relax warranty.

Lowering the unsprung mass of a vehicle can be noticeable, not just on track but on the road too. Whether this is the case for this revision would need a back to back test to properly confirm.

The C-HR will get a plug-in hybrid option later in the year, I wonder if they will do the same for the UX.

Just to add, these rear lights are prone to water ingress as the big rubber cover at the back becomes unstuck which can be glued down again. Therefore the issue might just be moisture, or water has damaged the electrical circuitry within the light unit - although that doesn't explain why the fault stays with the vehicle's wiring and not the light.