ColinBarber

Typically Red coolant has been available in a concentrate or ready to use (some countries also seem to prefer one over the other). Instructions are on the bottles, it will state if water needs to be added. If you purchase a concentrate then you should dilute with distilled water, not tap water. I think Pink has only ever been available in ready to use form. As has been previously stated, pink isn't just diluted red coolant, it is a different long life product. You can mix pink and red however you reduce the life to be just that of red and therefore should be changed every 2 years. From Lexus workshop manual for a 2013 IS - it is clear the term pre-mixed (in Toyota's mind) means water is already added: SLLC is pre-mixed (50% coolant and 50% deionized water), and therefore does not need to be diluted. If LLC (red-colored) is mixed with SLLC (pink-colored), the interval for LLC (every 40000 km (24000 miles) or 24 months whichever comes first) should be used.

Hi Not really sure what you mean by imported by Lexus UK, Lexus GB do not import Japanese models. You should get the EML flashing evenly without a fault code stored. Is the bulb working, does it come on and go off when turning on the ignition? Which pins did you connect together?

You should be ok with just replacing the blown fuse(s). You aren't the first to do this and others have gotten away with it.

With the temperature going high when stationary I'd make sure the cooling fans are operating correctly and possibly look at the thermostat. It could also overheat if running lean so possibly a fuel injector issue - maybe try a fuel cleaner.

It could be an injector playing up, or a coil pack, but these would normally trigger a fault code and you would typically notice when accelerating. May be worth trying a strong injector cleaner to see if that helps as a starting point.

Yes that is the best way to replace all the fluid. You may want to start/stop the engine so you remove a pint of fluid at a time, replace with new, and repeat, rather than trying to pump out and add new fluid at the same time. I'd also not recommend using anything other than Toyota T-IV fluid in your transmission, even temporarily. I'd disconnected the flow pipe and blow the old fluid through the cooler before draining/refilling the pan, otherwise you are just contaminating the new fluid with the old from cooler. Ideally the person in the demo should have shifted through the gears to flush through the valve body when pumping out.

You can do this but it will only remove the fluid in the bottom of the pan. The transmission will hold 2/3 of the fluid inside the valve body, torque converter, and the external lines to the oil cooler. If the fluid is contaminated you will need to get all of it out, so that method won't work.

No it won't, according to Toyodiy.com you need part 16470-46040 which is only used on the GS / Aristo and Toyota Crown. Looks like the same part is used for RHD and LHD vehicles so you can import from the US if you can find one.

It only applies to the diesel engines, the UK petrol vehicles don't have an oil maintenance warning, only a low level warning.

It is a lifetime fill, and unlike engine oil it isn't under extreme conditions so doesn't really breakdown in the same way, but changing every 10 years isn't going to hurt. More important is the check the level every year or so, that way if there is a leak you hopefully will notice before too much oil is lost and the diff gets damaged. Yes, 12157-10010, the gasket for both the drain and filler plugs. http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_E_2007_LEXUS_IS250%7E350%7E2xxD_GSE20R-AETLHW_4101.html

You cannot check for the problem just by looking at the radiator as the internal joints to the oil cooler fail, inside the radiator. As Tigerfish states, there have been reports of this issue but not to the extent that it is a 'common' problem. For a ten year old vehicle I'd probably change the rad and cooler just to be safe for another 10 years. When checking the transmission fluid make sure it is fully up to temperature, the vehicle is level, the engine is running and you slowly go through all the gears on the selector, then with the engine still running and it in neutral check the level with the dipstick. The colour of the fluid in the pictures is just old, once the vehicle has done 60k+ miles it's worth doing a pan drain and refill (which changes about 1/3 of all the fluid) every couple of years to keep it in good condition.

I think BMW drivers expect more, their cars are, compared to MB, more reliable. MB owners just expect to have to pay £££ every year to fix issues. MB, like VW, rely on their past reputation for reliability and quality, in reality they are both below average.

May as well stick with OEM. I've used Redline in the past to reduce whine or improve gear shifting (on a gearbox), but if you don't have an issue there is little benefit.

I'd imagine the metal fatigued from the inside of the strap out so it would be difficult to spot, otherwise it should have been picked up on the MOT inspection. It isn't a specific checkpoint on the service schedule but normally the mechanic would have a good look around the vehicle to try and find additional work.

That can be country specific. I believe the existing pre-facelift US model has the word Front on the button.

It really isn't a two for one offer. The two year 'deal' is now in its third year of existence, Lexus shouldn't be stooping to the never ending sales found in a furniture shop. Warranty pricing is review yearly, the current pricing increased at the start of the year is valid until the end of Dec 2016.

Even if both are fully synthetic there can still be a big difference in performance which is reflected in the price. IMO Edge, or Mobil 1, is completely overkill for an IS250 driven on the road. If you have a modified engine, a turbo-charged engine, are racing, or extending your service interval to that of a European vehicle then you should consider a high performance oil. Dealers sometimes use these expensive oils, mainly as a way to increase their revenues rather than because the engine needs it.

Welcome Steve I'd correct by adjusting the wheels/tracking, saves having to deal with the airbag.

I'd try and clean as much as possible without the engine running first. Spray the carb cleaning on a rag and then wipe around the throttle body and butterfly (push it open). You can then try spraying into the body with the engine running at a fast speed to clean inside. If there was a lot of dirt then the ECU may need to adjust the idle speed which can take some time. Once the engine is up to speed you need to come to a complete stop and take it out of gear and let it idle for 20 seconds, drive off and repeat. It will try and make a tiny adjustment each time so it takes a while to finally get to the correct idle speed.

Many employers stopped their company car schemes altogether and just pay their employees a car allowance. This isn't ideal from an employee point of view because you are just a private buyer without discounts that come with purchasing through a large company however you can choose what you want, including purchasing a newly-new car for a lot less money. Lexus however seem to be completely geared up to selling to company car owners. Their number one priority is to get into certain tax/emissions brackets to make company car owners pay less tax.

I've moved this thread into the RC forum. Hopefully it will get some more visibility of other RC owners and if it is a common problem then all owners should be writing and calling Lexus GB to get this issue fixed.

It is dependant on the grade of oil rather than just the branding of Magnatec. Magnatec 5W-30 is apparently fully synthetic, other grades are semi synthetic.

I'd look at the throttle body, clean it including the idle control valve.

You would be very unlikely to get a noticeable improvement on a non-turbo Toyota engine. Maybe a 5 to 10% improvement which would be hard to notice.

If the main sensor plays up you are likely to get errors on the downstream (sub) sensor as well as the mixture will be incorrect which fools the sensor into thinking the cat isn't working correctly. A faulty sub sensor cannot cause a fault on the main sensor. Therefore concentration on the main sensor first, you are correct to assume two sensors wouldn't go faulty at the same time.