ColinBarber

Yes, certainly worth familiarising yourself in ideal conditions where the jump point is before you actually need it.

Yes of course, apologies. Using the jump points in the engine bay means you don’t have to get the boot open if the battery is located there.

Partially. Many older Lexus models are like this too, the series II GS for example. Newer vehicles, like the ES, are definitely improved in this area, although the materials themselves may not be as nice as they once were.

What company? Any change in excess / benefits?

It's an error that can come up on either version but I certainly wouldn't expect to see it at 90%, possibly at 100% for a short while.

1 - Yes 2 - Don't. To 'jump' the vehicle, connect your battery pack directly to the battery once you open the bonnet.

Yes you are probably correct - I know there are errors/contradictions in the press material and brochure. Either way, specs can vary greatly between countries so it doesn't mean it is a standard feature for Charley (I'm assuming he isn't in the UK as the ES 350 isn't sold here).

If you get one from Lexus they will supply the most current part if you give them a superseded part code. I'd assume that the battery wouldn't be that old as I'm sure they sell quite a few so it's unlikely to have sat on the shelf for years. The current generation of sensors have a deep sleep mode from manufacture - only when they detect a certain pressure do they come alive for the first time - I imagine the ones back in the 2000s operated the same way.

In the UK the ES 300h F Sport and Takumi grades have active noise cancelling. I assume this functionality is available as standard or an added extra on some of the grades offered in your country on the ES 350? Typically the larger the diameter of the wheel the more noise is transferred to the cabin so consider grades will smaller wheels. Certainly worth test driving the options available if you can.

Hi Peter. You can access wiring diagrams here: https://www.lexus-tech.eu/euro5search/index?PUBTYPE=EWD You will be asked to register, which is free, but to access the diagrams you have to paid for timed access. It is €4 per hour for short term access, which is all you will need. This is for European vehicles - I doubt there is much difference to the wiring between regions (a benefit of using CAN is you minimise wiring and can software control regulations between regions) but if Lexus offer a similar service in Australia you would be better to access local information. It isn't going to tell you much however, other than pins 23 (white wire) and 24 (black wire) on the headlight ECU are the CANL and CANH signal pins. A CAN message is sent to turn on/off high beam, so you need something that will read the CAN bus and look for the correct message - the decode of the CAN messages isn't detailed in Lexus repair manuals so you will have to figure that out - monitor the bus and look for the messages as you enable/disable high beam.

What happened? The areas of investigation for too rich are on the right of the table below, in order of likelihood - however for both banks to be affected, I wouldn't suspect an injector or A/F sensor as they are bank specific and you wouldn't normally get multiple failures at once. P0172 P0175 With warm engine and stable air-fuel ratio feedback, fuel trim considerably in error to rich side (2 trip detection logic) Injector leakage or blockage MAF meter ECT sensor Ignition system Fuel pressure Gas leakage from exhaust system Open or short in A/F sensor (bank 1, 2 sensor 1) circuit A/F sensor (bank 1, 2 sensor 1) A/F sensor heater (bank 1, 2 sensor 1) A/F HTR relay A/F sensor heater and A/F HTR relay circuits ECM

You either need a headunit that has a built in amp with speaker outputs, or you need to install an external amp and connect the speakers to it.

You could ask but they may be unwilling to work on non-Lexus components, and a dealership isn't 'Lexus' so may not solve the issue anyway.

If you are moving the sensors then Lexus could claim it was damaged if you subsequently had a sensor fault and tried to claim under warranty - but that only affects the wheel sensor itself, the reset of the vehicle is still covered under warranty. The same reasoning could be applied to wheel bearings if one were to fail - Lexus could claim the third party (and in their eyes untested) wheels create a bigger load on the wheel bearing than originally intended which caused the premature wear. IMO, these are both unlikely scenarios so I wouldn't worry about it.

It depends how good you want it to look 🤣 You could give it a go. Rub it down, apply rust killer, a bit of filler if needed, primer and top coat. If it is just the lip and the inside surface then you can mask off the rest of the bodywork and it wouldn't matter too much if the paint colour didn't fully match. But if any repair is needed to the main vertical panel then you would want a bodyshop to properly blend in the paint.

All Lexus hybrid's suffer from poor 12v battery life which is a problem if you rarely use the vehicle but you are using it enough. Assuming you don't have something added to the vehicle that is consuming power (e.g. dash cam, tracker) and if it is still under warranty all you can do is take it back again - maybe record a video when you have issues to prove there is an issue.

It can be an issue with the IS250 if stone chips are left untreated or wet mud builds up on the inside of the arch lip. We don't see that many with this issue here, whereas the series I IS200 is common for the seals to rot at the wheel arch. Best to get the arches repaired before it gets to the point where major work is required.

How often do you drive your car, and how far? Potentially you may not be driving it enough for the car to recharge the battery. You don't keep your key fob very near your car do you? If it is within communication distance it can consume more power (ideally you should keep your key far away and in a Faraday pouch to stop the risk of a relay theft attack).

I wouldn't expect that. I'd check the carpets, front and rear, as well as the boot well for any damp/water. It could be a blocked door or sunroof drain rather than just condensation.

Indeed. It should hardly be the first time they have p/x a vehicle with a private plate.

They are correct - It either has a fault and throws up an error on the dashboard or it is fine - there isn't any health status like a smart phone unfortunately. As part of a dealer service there is a hybrid health check which will warrant the battery for 12 months / 10k miles (whichever happens first). Even if you don't purchase from the Lexus dealer, or doesn't have full Lexus history, get a HHC done as part of the sale and your battery will be covered, which you can renew yearly until the vehicle is 15 years old. https://mag.lexus.co.uk/lexus-hybrid-health-check-2/ Not much else to look out for - if it's been sitting on a forecourt for a while the 12v battery may need replacing. High oil consumption due to cylinder wear - difficult to check for when just viewing a vehicle. If you purchase one then consider getting the EGR valve cleaned to avoid any future head gasket issues.

It's a worldwide common issue, although not seen as much in the UK. There are two issues, one is the EGR can become blocked, the other, which is likely your mate's issue, is the piston rings which get coked up, cannot rotate and cannot drain oil correctly. It ultimately wears the cylinder bores so even if you free the rings it will still consume oil. It's a design issue that has affected several engines - my son's 2012 1.3 Yaris suffers the same issue - possibly because the previous owner didn't do regular oil changes with quality oil. In 2014/15, Toyota fixed the issue with resigned pistons and oil control rings which have larger holes and different tension. He could try using engine flush before each oil change, and possibly move to 5W30 oil which may help consumption but will increase petrol usage somewhat - essentially manage the issue. Otherwise it needs more major work to decoke the engine - provided the bores aren't damaged. If they are damaged then you need a new block as I don't believe you can successfully rebore that engine. If you search for the issue against the Prius, which uses the same engine, you will find more info as the number of those sold is much larger and hence more cars with the problem.

Seems that way. This thread has been posted within Lexus general discussions, anything non motor related is off topic and may be removed. “General Lexus or Motor related topics may be posted here that do not fit into any forum category.”

Jack up the car, spin the wheels and check for play - comparing one side to the other should allow you to determine if a bearing is noisy, and which one.

You can remove them to drain water but I wouldn’t leave them out otherwise road water/spray will start to get in.