ColinBarber

Really, they shouldn't be described like that. Bank 1 sensor 2 or bank 2 sensor 2 is the correct terminology. You are correct, left would normally mean looking into the engine bay from the front. The following should help banksengine10l.pdf

With the engine running?

take a look at the following thread - wiring to the rear motor needs checking first

Let us know how you get on. It's a strange one because the voltage seems high enough not to bring on the warning light.

Hi Ian You should just be able to disconnect the power to the ECU to reset. Depending on the actual fault the light could come back on again. Pull the EFI and ETCS fuses, or simply disconnect the battery for 30 seconds.

D - I could be something simple - you won't know until the error codes are read. Your EML327 should work, depending on the software used. Let us know the code(s) stored.

The hybrid battery is only covered for that duration if you get a hybrid health check every year. In comes as part of a service but you can pay to have it done separately and have your vehicle serviced elsewhere.

I found that the F Sport premium leather seats in my IS300h were almost impossible to get out of without putting your leg over the bolster, but even doing that every day my 2013 model didn't show any signs collapsing or leather wear.

Might be worth a go. I think you can pull the EFI Main 25A and ETCS 10A fuses to remove power from the engine and transmission ECUs if you don't want to disconnect the battery.

I agree with the last post on the CL thread - the ECU is probably being reset which is why it is feeling different. Possibly no different than disconnecting power to the ECU for 30 seconds. I'm not seeing a TSB that relates to the fuel pumps on www.lexus-tech.eu If there isn't a TSB for Europe there isn't much a UK dealer can do.

The rear brakes are different between series II and series III. Sticking issues don't really start to appear until a vehicle is 4 or 5 years old. So we are only going to know if the issue has been resolved or not on the series III in the year or two once we get enough vehicles passed that age.

It could be a pipe but I think they are semi rigid so they won't just fall off unless previous work has been done to the underside dashboard. Possible issue with the air diversion motors not moving the flaps fully into position.

I'd look for water ingress within the door, fuse boxes and junction boxes. Also the door actuators have a sensor in them which tells the ECU if lock/unlock has occurs. If the actuator becomes faulty and the ECU doesn't detect an unlock then it can try it multiple times.

Dirty throttle body.

I'd recommend you stick with the quality OEM plugs, Denso or NGK.

Firstly you need to know you have a carbon problem with your engine. If not you would be wasting your money.

take a look at your cabin filter behind the glove box. If that is very dirty / wet it will affect a/c performance.

Yes, the heater circuits will burn out eventually, and those error codes are accurate - if the heater circuit becomes an open circuit it is easy for the ECU to determine this. Even when the O2 sensors themselves still seem to be working they can become slow to react which causes a slow deterioration in mpg. Water pumps can last 150k miles but most people will replace when replacing the timing belt as the labour cost can be the biggest expense. Normally you get a bit of notice that a pump is on the way out, either it starts to leak or whine. On the IS200 it isn't too serious if the pump seizes because it isn't driven off the timing belt, you just run the risk of overheating the engine if you don't notice quickly.

It's odd that Lexus don't provide this. My wife's Prius has it which uses exactly the same full speed adaptive cruise control system used on the Lexus vehicles - there is just an extra button on the steering wheel to turn the function on/off.

It's a fact that the upstream sensors tend to fail, become slow, or the heaters fail between 60k and 100k miles. A fault code relating to the O2 sensors doesn't mean the sensor is faulty - as with anything you still have to diagnose the issue. Breather pipes should just fall off, if you get an error code shortly after work has been performed on your vehicle then there is obviously a good chance that something has been disturbed or not fitted correctly.

The service history is certainly hit or miss. I'm not sure if the dealers have to do something special to make sure the data is uploaded but I've seen incomplete history on all the vehicles I'd owned, and Toyota ones too which use the same system. I image the multimedia system is only for Premium Nav - you can't push destinations from the website to the car on the standard nav so there is little point having it registered.

But only pre-collision and adaptive cruise control. You need the plus pack for blind spot mirrors and rear crossing alert. With the better wheels, leather seats, ventilated front seats and better audio system, the plus pack is relatively good value. I'm not sure many dealers will have the base model as their showroom vehicle which they will eventually want to sell on, so big discounts may not be possible.

If there are no other error codes and you have fuel then the first things to check are air induction leaks and fuel pressure, then look at the MAF, engine coolant temp, and crankshaft/camshaft position sensors. Lastly the throttle control motor and throttle position sensor. After that you are down to standard engine diagnostics - checking for spark and compression tests etc.

You will only get a map update, the graphics won't upgrade. Personally I'd get a Brodit phone holder and use a smartphone with Apple Maps/Google Maps/Waze for much better functionality and constantly up to date maps.

try this site: https://lexus.7zap.com/en/eu/lexus+rx/521230/gyl10r-awxgkw/2/4804/482953b/