ColinBarber

When the TVD isn't active then the diff operates as a standard open diff. Only when the electronics want to put more power to one wheel are the clutches engaged. Unlike other TVDs which apply a brake to the wheel you want to reduce torque to (thereby losing power), the Toyota/Lexus design adds torque to the other wheel which makes it very efficient.

It will be a revelation compared to your 220d. I've really nothing negative to say about the 300h. Suspension can be a little stiff on F Sport and even the 18" wheeled Premier so also try models with 17" wheels to compare.

It will never be a Cat C as it isn't structural. Shouldn't even be a Cat D because the repairs should be much less than the value of the vehicle, hence they will repair rather than write it off.

Not that it's a problem but you don't need anything that powerful for a hybrid as the battery won't be used for starting the engine. Something that provides around 10 amps would be enough.

Here is some info about it. It sounds impressive and provides something akin to rear wheel steering without some of the complexity however how much you will really notice on the road is questionable. The best thing about it is there are three modes, so you have the ability to set up the car a bit more to your liking.

On the Lexus website it is showing as being at Lexus Teeside. £6k cheaper than anything else so quite a good saving. I'd insist on them throwing in an extra 2 year's warranty - you just need to understand that it will force you to use Lexus dealers for servicing during the warranty period. https://usedcars.lexus.co.uk/en/used-lexus/Lexus/NX-300h/25-SE-Lexus-Navigation-u3blnlj

Most series II vehicles don't have a button. Those that do, it is located at the bottom of the steering column just above the pedals. Near where Lexus put the tyre pressure reset button on most of their vehicles.

There is no one place but normally it will be behind the speedo, especially if the speedo needs to be removed to put a mph sticker over the Km/h symbol anyway. Some conversions aren't electronic, they just put a printed face over the speedo to give it new markings.

You have to remember that Lexus in the UK are just a marketing department. They basically looked in the owners manual and quoted the relevant statement.

You are correct, the C-HR is only FWD. The UX isn't going to be a Lexus badged C-HR though, although it will be based on the modular TNGA platform. We know Toyota have trademarked UX 200, UX 250 and UX 250h so it will use a different power plant to the C-HR

50% of 87 days = 10 months? There are a few other factors in play that make the calculation a little more complicated. 20% of the capacity isn't usable, once a battery get to that state of discharge it is being damaged and, whilst it can probably supply enough current for the standby load, there won't be enough to operate the doors/ignition etc. Compared to other types of batteries lead-acid have quite a low self-discharge rate but it will still be around 1 to 2% per week. Dirt and moisture on top of the battery will increase the discharge rate. Cold weather will reduce the effective capacity of the battery. This all adds up to the fact that the battery won't last as long as you might think.

Your tyres are probably a bit low, combined with the cold weather than has dropped the pressure by 2 or 3 deg compared to a 'cold' 20 deg in the summer. Set your pressures to the correct cold temp and recalibrate the system.

Does sound like it could be a camshaft or crankshaft sensor not giving out a very good signal which can't be interrupted by the ECU above a certain frequency. May need an oscilloscope to diagnose the issue.

When cold it will only let you do 20 mph As you say, turn off the cabin heater/AC and use your seat heaters.

whereas the Tesco Momentum is 99 RON.

The IS has a 48 Ah battery and the current draw is more than 15mA with the alarm and keyless entry enabled. A battery three years or older would have lost some of its capacity too. The OP left his vehicle for 6 weeks.

Definitely only one reservoir. Jets are not heated on any grade in the UK.

specs next week, pricing will probably not be available for some time.

It is a different engine. The IS engine has direct injection, which allows for a higher compression ratio which provides more power and greater efficiency.

When cold you only have to blow on the accelerator to get that message.

It is a shame the NX engine behaves the way it does. It isn't the same engine as in the IS300h, it is very similar however it revs up much quicker (possibly because of the reduction in power), which is also more noticeable because it isn't as well insulated from the driver as in the IS. The disappointment for me is that the heaver and larger RX can deliver the same mpg or better for most drivers, with much more power and a smoother delivery.

When the ECU detects knocking it will retard the ignition. It detects and reacts to this very quickly as pre-ignition can cause engine damage. When you go back to a higher octane fuel the ECU will not instantly try and advance the ignition timing again which is why you sometimes need to run a tank of fuel or more to see the benefits again. Most cars will see an improvement in mpg and bhp with higher octane fuel, but for me it was never enough to justify the 10p per litre difference in cost. Having said that, so far I've only used V-Power in mine, but I may try standard to see if I notice a difference. It seems the F engine will work fine with 95 RON fuel, you just won't get full power which you really aren't going to notice on the road. I know people that alternate between V-Power and standard in other vehicles, mainly to get the better cleaning agents rather than ultimate performance.

Correct. All the series I RXs have the screen and a Nav button whether Sat Nav is actually fitted or not. Retrospective fitting, you will need the sat nav unit that is located in the boot, together with mounting brackets, the GPS antenna, and the Nav disc. Really isn't worth the effort for what is a 15 year old system that doesn't come close to the functionality that a free app will provide you on a smartphone.

Something definitely isn't right. Hybrid system not initialised correctly so engine doesn't cut out when it should, brake calliper seized so you are fighting against brakes, incorrect oil used in engine etc.

This is what is stated in the GS F engine spec in the workshop manual: Premium unleaded gasoline with a Research Octane Number 98 or higher required for optimum engine performance. If 98 octane cannot be obtained, you may use unleaded gasoline with a Research Octane Number as low as 95. Use of unleaded fuel with a Research Octane Number lower than 95 may result in engine knocking and significantly reduced performance. Persistent knocking can lead to engine damage and should be corrected by refueling with higher octane unleaded gasoline. And in the owners manual: EU area: You must only use unleaded gasoline conforming to European standard EN228. Select unleaded gasoline with a Research Octane Number of 98 or higher for optimum engine performance. If unleaded gasoline with an octane rating of 98 RON is not available, unleaded gasoline with an octane rating of 95 RON may be used with no detriment to engine durability or driveability.