ColinBarber

Are you able to post a picture?

Did they swap your wheels out to get a quick turn around time if they needed refurbing?

Can you recall what wire you tapped into (colour and location)?

Indeed, or it was a fake one.

I agree, unless it is next to a standard black RC you may not see much of a difference. Weird that the black edition looks less black than the standard one, somewhere in-between Velvet Black and Mercury Grey.

According to toyodiy.com the correct part code for a 2005 GS is 42607-30040. That seems to be unique, no other Toyota vehicle is using that part. In late 2006 part 42607-50010 started to be used, which is also used on IS, SC, LS, and RAV4. Possibly just a change in shape or manufacturer and all sensors are compatible with each other, but cannot say one way or the other. Best to get a seller to confirm it works on your vehicle so at least you can send back if it doesn't work.

Low voltage as you cranked the engine upset the body electronics. Warning lights should all clear once you have three cycles of the ignition/engine start without further errors being seen. Those warning lights aren't engine related so shouldn't be O2 or MAF sensor. Potentially could be something like an ABS sensor but unlikely. Get the battery charged and check it's voltage once left overnight to see if it is holding a charge correctly.

315 MHz is not an unlicensed frequency in Europe, including the UK, and would be illegal to use. Any UK vehicle will have tyre pressure sensors and door remote controls operating at 433 MHz.

Check the rear light clusters for any water ingress, there is a seal on the back of the unit that can start to come away from the light unit and may need gluing back on - water potentially could get into the boot too because of this. Check the brake callipers - the sliding pins will seize over time. This happens more on the rear and results in the rear disc corroding as brakes aren't applied. This is worse on the hybrid vehicles as the mechanical brakes aren't used as much because of the regenerative braking. Check the underside. The rust proofing doesn't age well and may need to be re-undersealed to stop corrosion.

On the US forums most state Moog as the best alternative parts manufacturer although maybe going down hill, Beck Arnley seem to be hit or miss as they just source parts and repackage them.

Press release: world-debut-lexus-ux-new-genre-crossover.pdf

I think it was down to £25 a couple of weeks ago - that cleared out most stores.

It certainly looks like it has been covered up, but whatever was used has slipped slightly. The MOT tester should check the presence of the MIL lamps with the ignition on, and that they go out once the engine is started. Covering it up therefore isn't a good way to get passed the MOT, but not all check, and it often isn't checked dealers/public when selling a vehicle.

I don't think he is saying he wouldn't allow the thread, just don't expect an unbiased view.

It's a shared part, unfortunately only with the Toyota Mirai which is rarer than hens' teeth so you are unlikely to find it for sale other than at Toyota/Lexus dealers or importers. If you don't want to pay dealer prices then I'd recommend trying to find a written off CT at a breakers.

I had a few creaks, buzzes, rattles on my IS300h. I would also get wind noise occasionally from door/window seal. Some of this is down to the quietness of the vehicle and being able to hear them. My previous RX and GSs have been the same, if not worse. My current GS is very good.

Most of the economy is from an engine that is quite thermally efficient, running an Aktinson cycle, and a CVT keeping the engine revs at the most efficient. That isn't really anything to do with the hybrid system. The IS, using a Gen 3 Toyota hybrid system is certainly better on the Motorway that the gen 2 using in the RX400h, but if any significant battery assistance is provided the battery is very quickly depleted with no way to charge other than running the engine at a higher rpm to provide power for the propulsion and electrical generation (which is inefficient). The amount of energy recovered from braking/coasting on the gen 3 system is very small. There are plenty of hyper-milers in the US that have discovered that the least efficient running on the Toyota/Lexus hybrid system is engine and electric assistance at the same time, they do everything to avoid that happening.

It is the silver covered unit on the RHS of the engine - standing at the front of the vehicle looking into the engine bay. The following is part way through the procedure for removing/replacing the inverter. If you just want to remove the cover and check the ECU connections then I don't know if you need to follow all the previous procedures of removing the wipers and motor etc. or whether the bolts are accessible and cover removable with everything else in place. You will see the MG ECU connectors on step 26 on the next page. http://workshop-manuals.com/lexus/rx_400h_awd/v6-3.3l_(3mz-fe)_hybrid/hybrid_drive_systems/power_control_system_hybrid_drive/voltage_inverter_hybrid_drive/component_information/technical_service_bulletins/page_2739/ Read the procedure from the beginning - you need to isolate the hybrid battery before going near the inverter.

I think you can just replace the bushes but probably need to be installed with a hydraulic press. A complete arm with bush isn't that expensive if you purchase from the US (Rockauto for example).

corrected with link.

Servicing basically will follow: Lexus-Essential-Care-Service-Content-1014_tcm-3066-448394.pdf Your coolant change interval will depend if it is pink or red.

Ideally you need the Toyota part code not the Denso OE code. According to Toyodiy.com the blower from the IS, which is the part on eBay, is not shared with the CT200h.

Swapped the throttle body including the motor and throttle position sensor? If all of that has been replaced then possibly wiring damage or even ECU problem (but very unlikely).

The Outlander is good if you can make most of your journey within the EV range. Once the engine is running it isn't that economical. From a luxury and comfort point of view the two aren't really comparable.

There really isn't efficiency gains on the motorway from the hybrid system. Energy is lost through charging/discharging the batteries, and the extra weight is a big penalty. The tiny amount of charge you may get from declines isn't nearly enough to provide any assistance on the incline - most of the charge is coming from the petrol engine.