ColinBarber

Only driven an M4 at a palmer sport day but that sounded nice. Having said that, there was a new M3 at work the other day just driving about the car park - sounded like a bag of nails.

Isn't this the one? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Lexus-04-13-07-14-Trunk-Liner-Boot-Mat-PZ434C1300PJ-/251801806660?hash=item3aa08ea744 I got a non OEM one for my GS from these people: https://www.bootsliners.co.uk/lexus-is-2013-onwards-boot-liner.html much cheaper and actually better with the non-slip centre section. Looks like there are two versions, one for hybrid and one standard - not sure how Lexus have just one official one - must be compromised for the IS200t.

I thought it went longer but some of the workshop information for RX and IS suggest 27.5 seconds and rearms again after 5 seconds. No reason why the CT would be different.

It could be quite easy for Lexus to implement this feature but they haven't and therefore it isn't possible to configure this option.

Exterior wise it is the same as the standard UK carbon with a grey matt paint finish, blue brake callipers and gloss black wheels. All the chrome, unsmoked headlights etc. are the same.

Pretty rare for me to see an LS of any kind. If I'm not near a Lexus dealer I'd probably only see a 600h every few months at best.

only has to be >5 years old for Essential Servicing 😀

Yes the seats, and leather covers, are unique to the RC. Given that it is a rare vehicle you may have to wait some time for one to come up at a breakers. Leather seat covers are available separately to the seat cushion and mechanism but will be expensive. The US RCs have the same leather so importing would probably be cheaper. Part codes are on the link below - seat cushions on page 1 and seat backs on page 2 http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_E_2016_LEXUS_RC3xxx~200T_AVC10R-RCXLHW_7102.html same but with diagrams: https://lexus.7zap.com/en/eu/lexus+rc/245520/avc10r-rcxlhw/3/7102/ May be cheaper to go to an upholsters, who can replace just the individual panels. Watching Car SOS they seem to be able to do a fantastic job, just no idea how much they charge.

This doesn't break down the different grades/engine options but gives you overall LS sales figures each year in GB. 1536324449LexusUKYearBookbymodel9018.pdf

their Renault partnership has done them no favours.

It appears in the HUD when changing, just to inform the driver of a limit change, but will then disappear. Remains on the instrument cluster. Depending on settings it will turn red and come back on the HUD if you go a configured speed over the limit - specific features are slightly model dependant so the NX may behave slightly different to my GS for example.

Just informs the driver of speed limit and other signs in case they miss it. Probably helps to lowers insurance category.

That would be the case on a traditional engined vehicle, but the 400h doesn't have an alternator - the hybrid batteries and inverter provides 12v once the ignition is on ('Ready' mode).

The CVTs are too. Aisin is a Toyota company, founded by the same person that founded Toyota. A somewhat similar story to Denso who Toyota also own. The Mobil fluid is probably a bit cheaper, but they are both expensive. If you are going to get Toyota to change the fluid then they would have easier access to T-IV as it is used on older Landcruiser models etc.

I recommend just using isopropyl alcohol but others work well. Same procedure as below, MAF just in a different location.

you could just lighten up a bit. No need to go into your Carbon weight, no sunroof, rant at every opportunity. What linen - have you looked at the opening picture in this thread?

A colleague of mine has a neighbour with a 2017 Range Rover Sport. It has been taken away on a low loader on more than one occasion.

That first code seems correct, depending on spec of the vehicle, the other two don't even come up on toyodiy.com http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_E_2007_LEXUS_GS450H_GWS191R-BEXQHW_4803.html If you want to be 100% sure then spend €3 + VAT for an hour's access to the official parts catalogue where you can enter your chassis number to make sure parts match your vehicle spec. https://www.lexus-tech.eu/Menu/Repair

Engine check light normally goes out after 3 engine start/run cycles with no fault detected, doesn't really matter how many miles each trip is as long as it gets up to a reasonable operating temperature each time. You can disconnect the battery for 30 seconds however you will need to re-initialise the sunroof/windows/power hatch. You won't lose radio or sat nav presets though. Whatever app you used to read the codes appears to have a clear codes option at the bottom, that will clear the warning light and easier than disconnecting the battery. It could of been a temporary glitch but if the warning lights don't go out, or you get the errors again then definitely check the battery -ve connection, and earth straps going to the engine as it really seemed like an electrical issue. I doubt cleaning the sensor would stop those faults occurring, and the heater errors are essentially unrelated, but it will likely restore some smoother running and better economy if it was very dirty.

On my GS and my wife's Prius I'd say it works correctly 9 times out of 10. Yours may need to be recalibrated if it isn't working well.

I'd stick with T-IV, especially as you aren't replacing all the fluid and need old and new to mix well. It is suggested that T-IV is OEM Mobil ATF 3309 but difficult to confirm that.

maybe, but they provide info on tyres and brake pads so why not alignment.

This is an overboost detection error Seems to typically be caused by dirt/oil allowing the waste gate to stick, or dirt on the control valves operating it. Lexus would probably just replace the turbo if you took it to them. Many discussions over on TOC, not many seem to have a definite fix. Here is one: https://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/107948-avensis-verso-d4d-p1251-step-motor-error-is-there-a-fix/

They can, and will probably just use the method you describe, but that only replaces about 1/3 of the fluid as the rest will stay in the valve body and torque convertor. If the reason to change the fluid is because it is burnt then you need to repeat that method multiple times to dilute the old fluid out, or use an alternative method. If you just want to change it because of age then just changing 1/3 every couple of years will keep on top of things.

How about the front? I find that worse because of the larger disc and the calliper closer to the spokes. That front calliper is also a