ColinBarber

£393 to £491 depending on the dealer. LexusPartsDirect quoted the £393.

what is the error code being produced?

looks like a black wire, pin 6 on the main head unit connector.

Not sure Greenstuff are up to the job, too much weight and power. Red or Yellow should be more suitable, no idea how well they work on an F though.

Due to the location of the antenna and the long run needed to get to the head unit there is an antenna amplifier built into the antenna base on the roof. If a non standard antenna is screwed into it (if you have one with detachable antenna) they don't tend to work too well and it possibly could have damaged it - or it just could have failed. Often when a third party headunit is used the power feed for the antenna amplifier is forgotten which results in poor reception but as you have a standard head unit, I'd assume the wiring is all present and correct. If you have a standard aerial to hand I'd plug that into the socket on the head unit and see if that improves things - that way you know the head unit is ok. For the speaker, it could be just the speaker, you could always swap them over just to check. If it isn't the speaker then depending on the grade is IS200 the amp is either integrated into the head unit or a separate amp which is located behind the glovebox. Given that you seem to have heated seats, you will have a separate amp.

I think there is a little tab in the middle which you push down which then easily allows the connector to pull away.

see the following post, worth disconnecting the battery to reset everything:

Welcome to LOC 🙂

1 - if there is an issue then you go back to the sales outlet where you purchased the vehicle and request a repair, replacement or ultimately a refund (minus any fair use loss of value). Within six months it is the responsibility of the sales outlet to prove the fault didn't exist at time of sale. After six months the responsibility is on you - The health check report isn't going to give you information on when the fault occurred or how it happened, only that there is a fault now. You may need an independent engineering report to do that. 2 - if you are purchasing from a sales outlet then use one that gives an AA/RAC inspection health check report. Otherwise you purchase the vehicle and use the method 1 above. If you purchase from a private person then you could always ask them to get the inspection done prior to purchase. Let's not pretend this is anything other than an opportunity for the dealer to check over a vehicle they potentially haven't seen before, to find faults and win business. But it can be used to the owner's benefit too.

https://www.lexus.co.uk/owners/servicing-and-maintenance/vehicle-service/#feedback-&-help

Given the outrageous service pricing that Lexus dealers charge, you would think they would include this as part of a service. Certainly worth giving it a go to on older vehicles to get through the MOT emissions - no evidence on how well it performs against the alternatives out there though. Good price though: https://www.lexuspartsdirect.co.uk/parts/lexus-ux/lexus-ux-2018-present/lexus-ux-engine-service-kits/lexus-petrol-fuel-system-cleaner/

The heater is just a coil and it is turned either fully on or fully off. It provides heat to the sensor to get to an operating temperature quickly to get more accurate results. The ECU monitors the current it supplies to the heater circuit - if it is out of spec it will throw a heater related error code. Normally it goes open circuit as the heater burns out. The waveform of the actual sensor has nothing to do with this error, forget 0.72v peak. The heater should get 11v or more, draw less than 2 A and less than 0.25 A. If there is anything wrong with the actual sensor waveforms you will get P013x or P015x errors.

Welcome Alvin 🙂

Given that the pump stops it suggests it is working correctly. Normally they continuously run if they cannot create a vacuum until the system gives up and the alarm/warning lights come up. It may not be bled properly. BLEE.PDF

It is possible for an exhaust leak after the sensors to cause this error as the engine can force in air back up to the sensor. Definitely look at the Y joint where the two banks join. Otherwise if there isn't a leak it may be that the MAF sensor just isn't working that well, or that both upstream A/F sensors are now lazy with age (unlikely).

The NX engine came from the front wheel drive Camry and is indeed the 2AR-FXE. Toyota don't have the IS300h engine/transmission in front wheel drive configuration - that engine is the 2AR-FSE. They are from the same 2AR family but main differecet is lack of direct injection and lower compression ratio on the NX engine - something that should be simply enough to resolve but I guess that was a financial and time to market decision. The new RAV4 engine (A25A-FXS) is different in design to the older 2AR - different block design and heavily reworked components with more electronic controls - e.g. electric water pump and thermostat. It is much more efficient than both the NX and IS engine.

Indeed, get the bigger screen just as a consequence of wanting the ML stereo upgrade. Although I do find the 2/3 1/3 split screen useful and never use full screen.

does the booster actually stop running once the vacuum has been built up? I suspect the replacement is faulty - it is a common issue on the series II GS pre-facelift (1998-2000).

If the vehicle qualifies the Lexus extended warranty is good in that is covers virtually everything - there are certainly cheaper options out there but many have large exclusion lists or capped labour rates which don't allow you to get repairs at a Lexus dealer. https://www.lexus.co.uk/owners/warranty/extended-warranty/#hero

Didn't sell well because it had poor economy and quite high emissions compared to competition at the time. Most owners (not that there are many - literally less than 140) certainly prefer it to the 250, with maybe the exception of the transmission which can be a bit fussy.

The feature is very hit and miss for my, and also was on my IS. Works for a bit then just stops, then suddenly 6 weeks later starts working again. 😞

Certainly worth checking out both series but for me the series IV has a much better chassis for better handling and ride quality. Improved in every way. The series III was just a minor update mechanically on the series II, which itself was out of date. Series III also designed/launched at the low point in Toyota reliability together with poor engine designs that suffer carbon build up, VVTi issues, timing chain wear - the old 450h suffers transmission and battery issues along with similar engine issues.

Excellent news 🙂

It will be based on the TNGA platform, so will be essentially the same as the current Prius, Corolla, new Auris, C-HR, and Lexus UX - a big improvement of the old Auris platform that the CT currently uses.

The old or new one? The new ones have only just come into showrooms. If it is like the current Prius then the refinement will be better than the NX.