ColinBarber

If you have removed the 4 bolts that hold the hub onto the steering knuckle then it should come out but they do often get stuck. Try some penetrating oil / put the bolts back on, 1/2 turn loose, and hit them with a mallet / wheel back on the hub and tighten and jerk to give you more leverage / special puller - slide hammer. You don't need a press.

The factory set certain exterior/interior colour combinations and then Lexus Europe / Lexus GB may further limit the choice. The latest brochure suggests Red Tahara isn't an option at all so seems just a mistake on the website.

The spec sheet you get from Lexus-Tech.eu is very good, although doesn't always work for older models unfortunately. You can also put your chassis number on Toyodiy.com in the select your car section which will give you some info. http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/q.html

I think that is a bit dramatic. Many people have had batteries fail and had to charge/replace them without Lexus being involved. There are easy procedures for initialising the windows/sunroof/power tailgate, and on a 400h if you notice the engine not shutting down as often as normal then a quick google for ISC learning will give you that procedure too.

On the 400h, disconnecting the battery can cause issues with the idle speed of the engine and it not shutting down to go into EV mode. If this happens there is an ISC learning procedure that has to be performed. Therefore I'd not recommend disconnecting the battery without good reason. Not an issue on the RX450h though.

Someone with access to the diagnostic tool Techstream, either Lexus dealers or a Toyota specialist independent. It wouldn't cause a P0400 error though, poor idling/rattling is a symptom.

Certainly looks like you are picking up multiple satellites, 7 giving you position information, so the antenna is good. Not sure why you have an error on the audio system. You should check the Vehicle Sensors within the Navigation Check screen - drive the car and make sure the speed looks accurate.

you have to time it right. The follow video shows it - a different Lexus but same procedure.

I thought there have been reports of the stereo amplifier developing a fault and causing the battery to drain, and others stating a fault with the automatic light switch/circuit. Certainly worth turning the lights to off, to see if that makes a difference and then pulling the stereo fuse(s).

Are you still getting P0400 errors or different ones? If an injector was replaced, was the injector's compensation code programmed into the ECU?

Glad it is now okay. P0330 is typically a knock sensor fault rather than wiring or ECU so you shouldn't have any more issues.

Yes that is how they work. You wear away the wire, breaking the circuit and illuminating the warning light.

You should go into the diagnostics mode > Menu > Navigation > GPS information and make sure you are tracking 5 or 6 satellites. Check the vehicle sensors. Clear any error codes. Turn off the ignition to exit diagnostics mode, or press and hold the DISP button for 5 seconds. If there is a calibrate option in the normal menus (not diagnostics mode) then press that too.

You are confusing the pre and post facelift models. Pre-facelift - SE, SE-I, SE-L, SE-L Premier. Then at a later date the Advance based on SE-I - essentially a limited edition to boost sales. facelift - SE, Luxury, F Sport, Premier. Then at a later date the Advanced based on Luxury, and further revised a year later with additional equipment. The following has this in detail:

There are three different stereo options - each with a different DAB upgrade kit, as the cabling is different. None of the headunits had DAB built-in initially, even if DAB is written on the buttons. The kits came with the DAB unit, wiring, and aerial. Install manuals attached. CT200_DAB_RHD_PZ473_00211_A0_AIM_002_022_0.pdf CT200_DAB_RHD_PZ473_K0210_A0_AIM_002_024_0.pdf 080A_DAB_RHD_PZ473_K0210_A0_AIM_002_128_0.PDF Not sure if you can take a 2014 facelift headunit, when DAB became standard and retrofit that into a 2011-2013 vehicle.

Not folding correctly? Normally just need cleaning around the pivots - spray wd40 to loosen dirt, operate a few times and then clean off any excess.

^ those are correct. Minimum for pads is 1mm, discs are 31mm front and 26mm back - this is actually stamped on the rotor.

Would depend on which state but I'd not expect vehicles in California to suffer from external corrosion of the oil cooler pipes, unlike the UK with a lot more rain and road salt in winter accelerating the corrosion. Not totally unheard of in the US - several reports of Toyota and Lexus vehicles suffering from this issue - not just an LS problem.

On the 430 the failure is on the outside of the radiator/oil cooler threads rusting, it isn't related to the coolant inside the radiator. There have been many failures from owners who have full Lexus service history.

The antenna amp is either in the base of the antenna on the roof, or just inside under the roof lining - I think the former. The stereo power amp for the speakers is behind the glovebox.

In 2003 the suspension was revised to improve ride and the runflat tyres were replaced with conventional ones. In 2005 the suspension was revised again to improve body roll and steering response. I prefer the look of the 2006 facelift models plus you get the better performance of the 6 speed transmission. I'd try and get as young a model as you can. What do you mean by hand-built? Sheets of medal rolled into body panels - no. Production of the SC started in 2001, so I doubt there was a major production line change after just 12 months but I'm sure things were more automated as time went on.

that certainly looks like the feed, going off with the aerial lead. In theory that should be connecting into the stereo - be interesting to trace where it is going and if there is +12v on it once the ignition is on.

Did you clean both wires? You cannot really test it with a meter, and as you say it won't be 'faulty' as you would get MAF error codes. It needs to be something on the intake side though, if it isn't an exhaust leak, to cause both banks to have an issue - air leak, poor metering etc.

Only one red - called Mesa Red in the UK, same a Matador Red Mica in the US, colour code 3R1.

The sensor wire is a loop of wire that goes against the pad. When the pad wears down the wires is also worn away, becomes open circuit, and triggers the warning light. If your pads are worn to the point of illuminating the warning light then the sensor is damaged and needs to be replaced. If you are replacing pads early then the existing sensors can be reused - this is providing a different design isn't required because of different pad manufacturer - which I doubt as they would just use the OEM pads as a design template. Or you can just forget about the sensor wires and short out the circuit at the connector and waterproof to stop the warning light coming on.