Yes they will fit, and yes the compound will be different - no way Lexus are going to let the brakes on an LS squeal. Not sure you can say the compound is wrong - it just won't have the same bite or the same fade resistance - but if you aren't going to use on a track then you probably won't notice any difference day to day. I guess they may be similar to the alternative pads Lexus do under the TSB to stop brake squeal on the RC F, or even one compound lower still.
I'm happy with my EBC pads, can't really tell any difference in feel however I'm still only a few hundred miles in at this point.
You should connect +ve first then -ve. When disconnecting, -ve first and then +ve.
It doesn't make any difference to the vehicle's electronics but it avoids you injuring yourself or harming the battery by having a spanner on the +ve connection and touching the other end of it to the bodywork which is still connected to -ve - i.e. shorting the battery.
Stock discs are 34 mm thick, minimum allowable thickness is 31 mm so you are allowed 1.5 mm lip each side (assuming wear is even). It would have been nice if your dealer actually measured and told you the thickness, but that is hoping for too much 😞
It's a conversation with the dealership manager for a start. But you are in a no-win situation really, they could offer you free servicing etc. but would you really want to go back there again?
Not worth speaking to Lexus GB as they really don't like to get involved unfortunately.
Yes it should be a new generation - Toyota typically run an 8 year cycle, give or take a year or two, and the current generation launched in 2013. But until officially announced it is uncertain - the current move to electric vehicles could make Toyota decide to make an all-electric platform and therefore just face-lift the current platform to tide them over for a couple more years. Or the drop off in Saloon sales could make them decide to not further develop the IS, like they did with the GS (even though they had been working on a new platform for a while) - both highly unlikely scenarios but we just don't know at this stage.
The electrical connection on those LED bulbs can be a problem - using a single thin wire rather than a loop can mean they don't make good contact - try looking into the connector and seeing where the electrical contact is and bend the wire on the bulb accordingly. Also depending on how the bulb is made you may have to try it around the other way unlike a conventional bulb which will work either way around.
any idea where it is coming from - inside cabin / engine bay etc?
If inside, try setting the airflow control manually to one position and turning off the climate control to help determine if it is an air diverter valve hunting and making the noise.
Lexus after market parts are hard to find when they are specific to just a few models and the economics doesn't warrant a European manufacturer to 'tool up' - e.g. parts for a Lexus GS. For a vehicle that is mechanically 80% the same as a Auris, and uses an engine found in many other Toyota models the issue isn't such a problem.
The 1.8 hybrid engine doesn't have any major issues.
It's a UK specific warranty.
random misfires across multiple cylinders are normally caused by fuel rather than ignition (e.g. injector(s) not coil packs/plugs). The ECU is normally able to reliably detect which cylinder is at fault if the ignition is at fault.
Possibly a leaking injector, rather than an electrical issue.
Heard of ECUs being damaged on other makes but not really on Toyotas. Certainly EMF shouldn't be a problem as that would be contained within the ignitor unit within the coil pack. But certainly the ECU could be faulty - whether it was caused by the coil pack or not.
Have you measured the resistance on the wires back to the ECU to make sure you don't have a high resistance on the repair or elsewhere?
The fact that the wire was already tampered with is a worry - has it ever been working since you have owned it?
Standard flooded batteries work but you should really use an AGM battery on a hybrid to give you better protection against the damaged caused when the battery is discharged too much (e.g. leaving unattended whilst on holiday).
The life of a lead acid battery has more to do with not letting it discharge too much, environmental conditions and correct charging rather than the number of starts it performs.
John has covered this but by illegal I mean that without a license from Offcom you cannot transmit on that frequency in the UK without breaking the law. The car's TPMS receiver on a UK vehicle wouldn't detect that frequency either so not only would it be illegal, it also wouldn't work (which unfortunately you have discovered).
The same is true for keyfobs too - don't purchase ones outside of Europe and expect them to work.
try someone like https://www.scrapcarcomparison.co.uk to see what they will offer. Salvage companies will normally buy it and break for parts if there is demand.
All that is for is to allow the Nav system to calibrate the wheel diameter so when you lose GPS signal it still accurately tracks you on the road. It has no connection to the vehicle engine/transmission/drivetrain.
Definitely a problem with the master switch unit - or the wiring to it. Try disconnecting/reconnecting the wiring to the switch unit, this has been known to fit this issue.
The series I IS had some water ingress issues which causes electrical problems, although normally with the headlights. Worth checking the interior fuse boxes and junction boxes for water/corrosion.
Try pressing brake pedal as hard as you can and press the start button.
Try either with ignition completely off, or double pressing start without brake pedal to bring on second ignition stage and then pressing hard/start.