ColinBarber

It isn't really, but 50mA is for when everything is in a low power state, which can take 10 minutes after the ignition is turned off and the vehicle locked.

Correct, you can't delete, only edit.

If defender doesn't help then download Malwarebytes and run a scan. That is a good tool to detect anything nasty on the machine. If the machine is infected then depending what it is you may not be able to trust the system fully without a complete re-install of Windows so keep a note of what is found.

No, not directly. Does the 2008 infotainment system have an audio out, and the main system an aux in? That would be the only way to connect them.

Just don't get a dealer to source from another dealer, certainly not unless both dealerships are owned by the same group - e.g. Inchcape, otherwise both parties are making money from you.

Yes, all of these Kyosho models are limited runs. Probably 400 black and 400 in blue. Pretty cool getting the last one in black. Here is the current catalogue, LC has a similar run of 400 in each colour: https://saas3.startialab.com/acti_books/1045173943/37846/HTML5/pc.html#/page/18 If it was a blue one for sale then I probably wouldn't have posted the link 😉

Not covered under a warranty that is just taken out - pre-existing fault.

£156 including delivery isn't too bad, certainly not very expensive.

If you are in P or N, does the engine rev up well in the cold? What is your definition of cold / warm weather, in Celsius? Could be a temperature sensor. Is the temp. gauge on the dash working correctly?

Found this, number 5 in the picture. https://7zap.com/en/catalog/cars/Lexus/brand/10/0/LEXUS RX/LEXUS RX300%2F330%2F350/Lexus/R1d1N0NrcytEVUZmT1Y1bWlmMzQweFd1bnVrSVZDYzcxK0xOaUx2OS96WkI3aXpDYWhSbGU0RkJZVU5yaEJ0bmpjN0sxazM4ODFWVFNuS0JoZndWeTV3dE9GSDBOUlZteDNkT3R1Y2FCT2NKTkM2SkpNQ1JFZytERDZLRkFhV0s=/6bbffde8b5b8077d2d0a5796da6eea3c:172b2ba7134939c00852ffb556bfa531/manufacturer/4->8424/8424---845440f

£142 from ECP with their 60% sale at the moment, but I'd pay extra for the Yuasa one. It uses the same battery as the Prius series III (2009 to 2015), so you can search for that if needed.

That isn't a Toyota part code - should be something like 89780-48010. It is located in the centre of the dashboard near the top - behind lcd heater controls/ Nav screen (if fitted with Nav). Not sure how you get to it, via removal of centre console etc. or up from glovebox.

If you purchase an extended warranty from Lexus without an existing policy in place then they may charge you for an inspection fee to make sure there are no pre-existing faults. That is normally waved if you get a service done at the same time so if the FCA dealer is going to get the service done, speak to the Lexus dealer and let them know you want a warranty once you purchase it, within a few days or the service, or get the FCA dealer to purchase the warranty at the time of service to avoid you having to pay the inspection fee. If the dealer is smart they should know the Lexus warranty is for two years, so they may only allow for £400 for just one year - be prepared for that discussion. Brake calliper (sliding pins) sticking is a common issue, and probably won't be covered under warranty so check discs are free from corrosion. Ideally you would want them to remove sliding pins and grease up (5 minute job x 4 corners), and resolve any seizing/corrosion as required.

The insurer has to pay out against the third party as per the road traffic act - some policies will cover the driver too, other won't and may even sue the driver to recover costs of the third party. Being a lease shouldn't make any difference, other that who you are dealing with if the insurance was part of the lease deal or if you get it independently.

The 20 mins drive would have needed to be at least a 6 hour drive to recharge a battery from that low state - the charging that the vehicle does is about the same as a 5 amp battery charger and really is just there to put back into the battery what it may have lost through self-discharge since last driven, not to charge it from a discharged state. The reading you get from a battery that has just been charged is always higher than it truly is, it needs to rest for a while before checking. Also when batteries get damaged/sulfated it will appear to charge quickly and show a high voltage however it isn't really in good condition and has a very low capacity, which mean the voltage will drop away quickly as it is doing overnight in your case - this is probably due to it becoming discharged the first time as anything below a 70% discharge state will damage the battery - and with every drop below 12.1 volts more and more damage is done. You can try a battery charger with a repair feature, e.g. a CTEK or Noco charger - these have been seen to restore some capacity to batteries however it doesn't always work. Otherwise you probably need a new battery - it is unlikely you have an electrical fault that is excessively draining the battery. With a good battery you shouldn't have lost more than 0.1v overnight.

There is normally a gap by the headlight which will allow a wire to be run into the engine bay without the bonnet seal even touching it. Currently my GS and my wife's Prius are connected to chargers this way. Post-it note over the start button on the latter as a reminder that the charger is connected.

Looks like it goes into body ECU 1 - the mirror adjuster goes into ECU 2.

has to be the Italian styled series 1 for me, in UK sport guise with the 10" rear wheel option.

Really the only thing specific on the IS to look for is corrosion on the disc braking surfaces, especially on the rear, or a rough braking noise feel at less than 5 mph, which indicates a sticking calliper. Also that the footbrake is working correctly as some owners tend not to use it, allowing it to seize up.

Gen 1 was built well for the time and mechanically the gen 2/3 was ok but poor build quality elsewhere and a weak chassis, and the gen 3 in hybrid form has poor reliability too. Gen 4 is such a step up in all department, but it comes at a time where plastic wins over metal, and what metal there is, is thinner so perceived build quality is less but such a better car. I'm not sure about the ES being partly responsible as the two models co-existing for 29 years - it didn't just come along and took sales away from the GS. But with the drop in overall saloon sales, the ES being cheaper, and FWD being desirable in states that get a lot of snow, the GS suffered the most.

Who purchases a new car and then invalids the three year warranty after 11k miles by not servicing it? I'd steer clear. The engine will probably be fine but, assuming the service history is accurate and nothing was done until 34k miles, it is an example where the owner isn't looking after the vehicle - probably abused it, used cheap tyres/brakes etc. Plenty of CTs around, walk away.

Yes, looks like it has spring clips on the bottom so it should come up at the end furthest from the socket and then pull out. https://7zap.com/en/catalog/cars/Lexus/brand/10/0/LEXUS RX/LEXUS RX270%2F350%2F450H/Lexus/R1d1N0NrcytEVUZmT1Y1bWlmMzQwd3RSMjVJMFZUb041eWdodDJZRE9WWEJCa3ZTd3I0ZFgwZDlHc1J5Q3UxUGlMdHUzWHVNM1pSY3BNV2ZYaDBVT2JqQmg5dnZiUW1nWHE0WDl6TkZuU0pwMFYwQ09NY0cwR04zT2hXcVNlc1lOczUrYnJvVHVleW1aNVFSR2drVHFBPT0=/6bbffde8b5b8077d2d0a5796da6eea3c:fe2e164e8e3c3195143f5a61b85de3b5/manufacturer/3->5806/5806---583484g

Normally just water that collects in the mirror when washing - worse if you are in a hard water area as it may stain - go for a drive after washing or if you have an air compressor, blow it out. If it is not just a hard water stain then possibly too much grease/WD40 etc been put in the mirror pivot area to make sure it works smoothly and doesn't freeze up when the temp. drops below freezing. Clean out with degreaser. Make sure the doors are sealed with a good wax, so that it can be wiped off rather than staining.

B2799 is an immobiliser error but not one related to the key - the ECU is detecting a wiring issue between itself and the transponder unit. B2281 is signalling issue between the power source control module and shift lock control ECU. I'd say you have an electrical supply issue - earthing, fuses (including the big bolt on ones on the understand of the engine bay fuse box, EFI relay, power source control module etc.

Yes, I believe it is a direct connection to the battery. Use any metal part in the engine bay for the -ve. Double check by connecting your charger and then a meter on the battery to make sure you see an increase in voltage.