ColinBarber

All CT grades have a tilt alarm, not just the Takumi.

see here: https://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic/103020-tip-removing-lexus-air-suspension-air-lines-and-possible-temp-fix-for/

I'd go F Sport, but as it looks and drives differently your choice needs to consider that.

What are you doing instead Tel?

Did you get any fluid out? You need some to run out so you know it is at the full mark. If you get nothing then you aren't sure if it is just at the correct level or low. You do need to be sure the fluid is good and filled correctly before assuming something more serious. There is the possibility that all the contamination wasn't removed the first time from all the clutches so another change can only be a good thing.

you can get remanufactured torque converters for less than £200 from Rockauto and other places in the US - cheaper if you can get the old unit back to them as an exchange. It is possible that the lock-up clutch on the TC is the cause of the shudder but would need more precise info to determine that.

AGM can handle deeper discharges, and there are special deep-cycle AGM batteries to handle this even better, but complete discharges are a no-no for any lead-acid battery. A lot of the solar chargers on the market help slow the discharge rate but don't provide enough power to keep the battery fully charged even in Summer, and as the weather starts to turn they aren't going to be much good in this country.

My rims are stock, I think they are -50 but my GS is an F with completely different suspension and hub set up so isn't comparable to what would work on your vehicle.

The latest RAV4 (2019+) is nicer than the old one but still no RX and in another price bracket due to their age.

For 8.5" rims the range is 225 to 255 with 235 to 245 the ideal. My fronts are 255/35/19 on 9" rims. I think TRD is towards the higher end of ideal to achieve the widest look for the rim.

Yes I would try something gentle like Meguiar's Scratch X to try and cut/polish it out but be aware that what we might be looking at is the base colour coming through because the top colour has been scratched off, rather than light diffraction because of scratches or some material deposited on top, and if that is the case then you would just make it worse. If you think something has rubbed against it and left its material on top then just try some isopropyl alcohol on a cotton bud to see if it will come off.

what width are your rims?

If I understand you correctly and it is like my GS, you can't stop the menu from coming up if no destination has been set on start up. I just avoid having the menu screen on at all to avoid the issue 😉

Sorry to hear this. Do you know the reason for failure - transmission cooler failure in radiator, fluid change incorrectly done etc? That is certainly a lot of expense for the rebuild. Cheaper to purchase a used one from a scrapped vehicle but by the time you have paid for installation there may not be too much difference. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lexus-Ls430-6-Speed-Gearbox-Transmission-Facelift-03-06/113746395756?hash=item1a7bd0426c:g:g1YAAOSw8sJc4hU0

Denso advise not to, NGK say the same: https://www.denso.com/global/en/products-and-services/automotive-service-parts-and-accessories/plug/basic/torque/ Modern plug threads are coated to avoid sticking/corrosion anyway. They are installed dry at the factory, never had an issue removing them. O2 sensors on the other hand, always use the anti-sieze that comes with them on the thread.

1 - mileage shouldn't be a big concern if serviced correctly. Costly services are 60k, 100k and 150k. 2 - facelift models are normally worth having as they tend to make minor improvements, not that there were really any problems with the earlier ones. Obviously the more expensive the car is the higher the depreciation so you will need to weigh that one up. 3 - F-Sport looks better and has more sporty suspension - you should test drive different grades. If you want comfort then a non F-Sport on 18" wheels may be more suitable. Specs are here: 4 - there are a couple of 3rd party systems that provide retrofit capabilities. They seem beta release products at best so you need to be comfortable with tech and willing to put time and effort in upgrading/troubleshooting etc. Not worth it for the average Lexus owner. 5 - extended warranties are available to take out on vehicles up to 10 year old. 2 years cover is around £1000 which includes AA breakdown and a couple of MOTs. You need to get the vehicle serviced at a main dealer to maintain the warranty. https://www.lexus.co.uk/owners/warranty/extended-warranty/ hybrid health check will get you warranty on the hybrid battery (not the other hybrid components) for £59 or included in a main dealer service. https://www.lexus.co.uk/owners/servicing-and-maintenance/hybrid-health-check/#health-check 6 - brakes, sliding pins on the callipers can corrode and cause the discs to rust if not regularly greased. Check for any water ingress in the boot area - more common on series II but could start to happen on series III Check underside for corrosion - again happens on series II, hopefully better underseal protection on the series III but only time will tell. 7 - Series II RX with air suspension gets unreliable with age so we should assume that same for the series III although at the moment issues are uncommon. Nothing else to avoid from a spec point of view.

It is now as it was moved, but not initially.

Another reason for the petrol engine to fire up is if it is getting out of a temperature threshold, i.e too cold for optimum efficiency. If the engine isn't running then the coolant in the radiator isn't moving and so won't cool the engine unnecessarily, once the engine fires back up it will get mixed and the mechanical engine thermostat will regulate that. On the IS, and I presume RC, there is a mechanical shutter on the lower part of radiator/grille which restricts air flow to stop excessive coolant cooling when the temperature is extremely low - I don't believe this is fitted to any UK vehicle as we don't have extreme winter temperatures.

I guess it may depend on age as different sizes have been used but I think the centre bore is a different size on the majority of A4s.

It's a 'special' belt because it has an amount of elasticity in it so there is no need for a tensioner/adjuster on the water pump. It's a sort of warning not to fit a standard one - if you could find one the correct size. No water circulation occurs if the engine shuts down - if the heater matrix gets too cold compared to your cabin temperature/setting it will force the engine on - one reason why mpg isn't as good in winter. There is an electric cooling pump that is used to circulate coolant around the hybrid inverter / dc-dc converter but that coolant doesn't flow into the cabin heater matrix (doesn't get hot enough).

yeah I do like the HUD in mine but Mark is good, his IS didn't have one so he doesn't know what he is missing 😉

I guess it is possible for the outer part of the pulley to have slipped around and moved out of time with the inner key, especially if someone tried to previously undo the bolt by using a strap around the outside of the pulley and not the correct tool that will hold the centre to stop the engine rotating. As you say, check the timing using the markings on the timing belt pulley rather than the drive belt pulley/harmonic balancer to be confident that the timing is correct. I think you have the correct pulley. It matches the diagram in the workshop manual for an engine of that age and seems to match this part which is the correct part code for an 1994 LS400. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/13407-50040-GENUINE-OEM-DAMPER-SUB-ASSY-CRANKSHAFT-1340750040/174061597539?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20200520130048%26meid%3D7c2868a3a9c0491ea426d2cb7c422787%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D9%26mehot%3Dpf%26sd%3D332610540639%26itm%3D174061597539%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DDefaultOrganic%26brand%3DToyota&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851 On the workshop manual for a later revision of the engine the pulley looks more like the ones you have found pictures of online:

ah ok I see your confusion. I believe there are TDC marks on the cam pulleys but they are small marks on the back edge not the white tooth on the front - cannot be seen on your photo. If you rotate the engine 50 deg past TDC, to the end of the plate where the TDC marking are on, you will find the white marks line up as expected, and if you have an original timing belt there would be white lines across the belt matching the white tooth and marking on the engine. The reason for this is to allow all the pistons to be down a little from Top, so if a camshaft rotates it cannot hit the piston and cause damage.

Not 100% sure on the exact date but some time around 1 Jan 2019 the duration was extended to 15 years from 10.