ColinBarber

correct, so shouldn't be the cause.

Not aware of any common issues with the GS series IV. Possibly still too early for anything like that to be discovered. Worth asking the inspector to listen out for any timing chain noise in case it has stretched beyond the tensioner's limit and is a bit loose. I don't see why the hybrid health check battery warranty wouldn't be allowed on your vehicle but it is definitely a question for Lexus IE. I'm not sure who underwrites the HHC warranty, if it is Lexus Europe or TMC then the existing HHC warranty may remain valid for the rest of its term even though it is in a different country - otherwise if Lexus GB have that risk then Lexus IE may request that you get a new HHC carried out once you receive the vehicle as they won't be able to claim on Lexus GB.

There is a TSB in the US for noisy fuel pump but should only affect the 2016 built ones. Not sure the same TSB exists in Europe. SB-10086282-5448.pdf

What drive mode are you in? Turn off ASC. Could be the fuel pump.

Tail is the correct fuse, which also protects the number plate lights. I'm not familiar with how the tow hitch wiring works - when connected up does it stop the rear lights on the vehicle coming on? If so there is probably an issue with how it switches those off/on.

Welcome 🙂

Here is the installation manual for the dealer fit tow bar. Looks like at step 31 you disconnect the existing wiring junction point and install the wiring adapter/cabling that come with the kit. https://www.lexus-tech.eu/aimuploads/{C16F6224-707E-70C9-BAD9-8AEE3C1D707E}/Lexus RX350-RX450h RHD Tow bar wiring kit 12S PZ457-K0563-00 AIM 001 341-1.pdf

You cannot do it, not in bulk anyway. The bluetooth protocol that the system uses for contact transfer was blocked/not support by Apple as it was deemed insecure. You could transfer them one by one but not sure if that is even supported now. In the past people used to transfer their contacts to a different phone (e.g. some old Nokia) via the SIM and upload them that way. There was also a Mac program written called Prius Phonebook which will take all your contacts and uploaded them via Bluetooth on your Mac. I found a supposed copy of it here: http://x3w.org/adc3/mc.php?id=22374&sub_id=i4 but if you download it, I'd upload to Virustotal.com to give you some assurance that it doesn't contain something nasty before installing/running it. It probably won't even run on Catalina, it hasn't been updated for 12 years.

Obvious things like the gearbox itself and the shifter, clutch pedal and master cylinder. But other things like a new engine ECU (which is a combined engine and transmission ECU), different prop shaft (or at least the front half), some wiring to do, transmissions mounts will be different so you will need those and probably some welding to do. The rear diff uses a different ratio so new internal gears or swap the complete diff. The radiator is different because the auto has the transmission cooler built-in but you can just block that off.

If the system cannot start the petrol engine, after a few attempts it will lock out to protect the entire hybrid system. You need to put in fuel and reset the error codes, especially P0A0F. It is possible that may need to be done more that once if the engine is being difficult to start. If you aren't able to clear the errors (should be able to if you are using tech stream) then disconnect the battery for 30 seconds.

Unfortunately I think it will be difficult to find what you are looking for. Lexus only sell the complete assembly 😞 https://7zap.com/en/catalog/cars/Lexus/brand/10/0/LEXUS IS/LEXUS IS2%23%23%23%2F3%23%23%23/Lexus/ejRGcSszeWVnTjE4OTdiL1FDS2lDek9ITFZNSTlRVEs5Y1ZjSVhtQzBOQWJzS1JuNHQ0Q2wxSHRmbU43OVowVGRqeC9BbDY3bGl1TjNlMWN5dmJVL21qMFNHMjh1a2h6TUhIU0pvZjlCSDM1azdkc1hIVWIrbDlwditIUHNOOU0=/6bbffde8b5b8077d2d0a5796da6eea3c:16332ea94046260a0e7cdff681192e39/manufacturer/4->8401/8401---84e283

moisture

This has already been posted up on the video sections here at LOC but for those that missed it: and the blog entry that goes with it: https://blog.lexus.co.uk/how-to-draw-a-car-lexus-lc/

Given that you are unlikely to ever need to undo the transmission fluid lines from the radiator, once you have replaced the radiator I'd be tempted to paint over the tails and the nut with something like Smoothrite to protect it from corrosion.

No they limit the number of ground points. I've not seen the series IV RX wiring diagram but the IS, GS, older RX etc all go back to a single point. e.g.

Lexus had its best year ever in the UK last year. The UX sold as many as the CT, IS and RC combined despite not being fully available in the first couple of months. This year, whilst total sales I'm sure have been effected by Covid, the market share is the highest ever in the UK and the UX is outselling the CT, IS and RC combined by around 1.8:1, the same as the NX. The ES sales are nearly double the IS.

One at Lexus Gatwick https://usedcars.lexus.co.uk/en/used-lexus/Lexus/Gs-Saloon/450h-35-F-Sport-4dr-Auto-vdcedfl

Reading the resistance of the sensor isn't an accurate way to test them unfortunately. When you say low speeds, what speed are we talking about - under 5 mph, under 3 mph? If it is that low then any dirt can affect the signal these sensors produce which is weak at low speeds, so you need to make sure they are all clean and the ring isn't at all damaged (no cracks).

Assuming you fully charged the battery then it clearly isn't holding a charge if it doesn't last a day unattended and therefore needs replacing.

The problem is that the manual doesn't explicitly state the jump point can be used for charging, just to get the vehicle started in an 'emergency' situation. Elsewhere in the manual it states that the battery should be disconnected from the vehicle before charging which means the jump terminal isn't going to work. In reality the jump point is a direct connection to the 12v aux battery (albeit via a 100+ Amp fuse) as this is the main connection to the vehicle's fuse box where all the 12v connections are fed from. Personally I would use the jump point in the engine bay if I were to use a trickle charger as you can get the leads out of the vehicle without pressing again a seal and damaging it as with the boot hatch. But I wouldn't use a charger without an inline fuse as close to the +ve battery terminal as possible. It is quite poor that the CTEK doesn't have this given that it is supposedly a quality product and that is capable of indefinite trickle charging - although very easy to fit one. You don't want a rodent chewing at the charging cables and shorting them together, effectively shorting your battery.

That's a 'good' price, a standard Lexus dealer would quote you £146. https://www.lexuspartsdirect.co.uk/parts/lexus-gs/lexus-gs-phase-iii-2005-2012/lexus-gs-3-exterior-interior/lexus-gs-phase-3-o-s-bonnet-strut/ Crazy world!

The drive wheels should never be allowed to rotate when towing. So the GS300h/450h for example should have the rear wheels off the ground. For the RX400h and RX450h all wheels need to be off as there are motors driving all the wheels.

They compete in different markets within the UK and are comparable with the competition in each of the markets. No reason for Lexus to offer 5 years, it is unlikely to persuade a BMW driver to switch as they are already perceived as more reliable, and whilst they are very reliable there will be the odd failure in years 4 or 5 which will just cost Lexus money to fix.

The pre-facelift GS series II suffer from master cylinder issues, primarily the vacuum pump and you end up with a VSC warning and buzzer going off the whole time. The face-lift models (which you have) don't seem to suffer this so I wouldn't be too concerned about getting a used unit from a scrapyard - obviously you could be very unlucky and have a problem with the replacement but I think you should be ok. Having said that it doesn't really sound like a master cylinder issue, rather that something is triggering the ABS to operate and the master cylinder is operating correctly.

There are a couple of things here. The regen braking does lead to the mechanical brakes not being used that much if you are light on the brakes, and affects the rear more. That can lead to the rotor itself becoming corroded so yes you want to do some hard braking every few weeks just to clean the surfaces before it gets too bad and starts to pit them if your normal driving hasn't achieved that. 50 mph down to 10 mph hard a couple of times should do it (when safe to do so). Braking hard in reverse isn't going to be enough IMO. That may help somewhat with the calliper slider pins sticking too but it is just the design of them that is the real problem and you get the same issue on the petrol variants as well. Re-greasing them every year or two is the only way to stop them binding up. On the RX will high ground clearance you can take them out one by one and regrease without removing the wheels or jacking up the vehicle if you are prepared and able to lay on the ground and crawl under a bit. Normally problems with the sliders can be solved by cleaning or replacing the pins and rubbers and cleaning out the hole in the calliper - doesn't need a new calliper. If there is a problem with the calliper piston then it may need a rebuild or new calliper - it is quite rare for this to be needed in my experience.