ColinBarber

No, there is no benefit it doing that. You would be better off charging your battery on a smart charger for several hours every few weeks to get it to 100% charge, something the vehicle is unlikely to do by just running it on a long journey once a week - the final 10% charge is done slowly so it is unlikely you will ever achieve it that way.

The standard battery for the 400h is rated as 38 Ah for 5HR. The Prius III is 36 Ah and the Prius IV is 30 Ah (but 45 @ 20HR). The RX450h series III is 43 Ah for 5HR - which may be around 51 Ah for 20HR. The RX450h series IV is 60 Ah for 20HR. Seems Toyota are starting to use 20HR rating on newer models, which makes sense, especially for a hybrid that doesn't/shouldn't need a fast discharge rate for the aux battery. The problem is that capacities are often quoted at different discharge rates and therefore difficult to compare. Typically the capacity is directly linked to the size of the battery, so will always be similar if you get one of the same dimensions. The 400h doesn't have smart lock/unlock so there isn't as much battery drain compared to the 450h.

I used a Bosch S4 model 158 when I replaced the battery on my old 400h. This was 6+ years ago so I'm sure the price has gone up but the 400h just uses a standard wet battery - nothing expensive, although you could go for something like an Optima which will cope with deep cycling if you aren't using your vehicle much during lockdown.

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UK vehicles don't do this. Certainly no 200h.

There have been a couple of reports recently for similar issues. Seems the camera itself or connection to it may be corroded or has moisture in it.

I think the Lexus charger is 22 kW so is going to be quite expensive and will need a 100 Amp connection directly into your fusebox and your main feed into your fusebox may have to be upgraded - although you don't actually need it to operate at full power. I'm assuming Rayaan's charger is 7 kW and would therefore need a 40 Amp connection to the fusebox. Both of these will charge the 300e in around 8.25 hours as the vehicle will only draw up to 6.6 kW. If you just want to charge via a 13 Amp socket then I believe a lead to do that is supplied with the vehicle, but it will take around 19 hours to fully charge from completely discharged.

Have you checked all the other fuses in the engine bay and footwell? Are all of the electrical systems working and immobiliser light going out?

That isn't typically how Toyota build their vehicles. You will have different ECUs with different part codes and different software options available in different parts of the world and you cannot just enable a feature that is available in the US on the European vehicle, and you cannot easily load different firmware on them to change the region. They also don't fit sensors to vehicles that don't have that option installed. In most cases a different wiring loom is used so even the wiring to the sensor doesn't exist. There are exceptions to the rule but in most cases this is true. With regards to auto locking of doors. I'm not aware of any UK Lexus having that feature up to at least 2016. Maybe it is something that has come in on the newest models?

Not a popular target, certainly not yet anyway.

I don't have a specific device to recommend but you need to make sure it will support the ISO 9141 protocol, provided it is a genuine UK/European car? Some of the Japanese imports of that age don't support ODB2.

I would suspect this. Should have nothing to do with the brake pedal switch and coincidences very rarely happen.

The problem is that is that it will run off before properly loosening the dirt. I struggle with my Karcher foam jet and Polar Blast being too weak on the max setting - not sure which one is at fault but I think I'll give Bilt Hamber auto foam a go next.

John, that sounds good until you realise that Fuelly has over 65,000 returns across 900+ vehicles covering 21,000,000 miles for the CT200h where you can look at specific years and see people's individual consumption figures and how on a hybrid the mpg varies quite a bit between summer and winter months etc. https://www.fuelly.com/car/lexus/ct200h

If it was a genuine part then it would be excellent as the part alone is around £280. A third party unit can be found for around £70+, but most of the cost would be labour - probably 2 to 3 hours will the regas so the price doesn't seem too bad, maybe a little high.

Lexus don't normally name the standard wheels, even optional ones that get a name are locally specific, like paint names, so may be called something completely different in the US compared to the UK. They are factory standard wheels. 1 of 5 different designs that the factory were fitting for MY2017 models onwards.

Nothing too difficult but certainly adds time: remove power steering ECU remove battery remove battery tray unbolt engine room relay block 1 and cable clamps so it can be moved out of the way unbolt engine room relay block 3 and cable clamps so it can be moved out of the way then you can get to all the coil packs/plugs.

The hybrid health check warrants your hybrid battery for 12 months or 10k miles, whichever comes first, so you may need more than one a year if you are doing 15k pa.

Fuelly is better - provided you look at a vehicle with more than just one or two owners so you get a better average across different driving styles. Just make sure you have imperial mpg selected.

On the series II GS there are three settings available. No idea if the series IV has a similar set up, mine has a motorised boot so cannot check:

No, a tweak or two in 2018 for Euro 6d emissions and with the MY2020 facelift there have been changes to the engine, intake, exhaust, fuel tank etc. but nothing that is changing the power output so I doubt the driver could tell any difference. The Euro 6 to 6c to 6d-temp and 6d have changed the way the testing/reporting of CO2 occurs which would account for some of the differences being seen. Also the CO2 varies between the grades and options due to weight and wheel differences.

This is correct. There is no monitoring on those secondary cats. The air/fuel ratio sensors are on the exhaust manifold before the primary cats, and the O2 sensors monitoring cat efficiency (highlighted below) are after the primary cats on the front section of the exhaust but quite a way up from the secondary cats that have been stolen

That's fine for passing the MOT but it is still potentially illegal: https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/modifying-your-vehicles-emissions/modifying-your-vehicles-emissions-the-legal-safety-and-health-implications The vehicle would still need to meet whatever EURO emissions standard the vehicle was first granted, and have emissions within the same road tax bracket it was originally allocated.

As you say the handbook states nothing about it because it is perfectly fine and the vehicle even remembers what mode you are in from last time. It there was an issue then the software wouldn't let you choose that mode - like it does when the ICE first starts up and states EV mode currently unavailable if you push the EV button.

Low speed crabbing of the tyres is common on a lot of vehicles with low profile wide tyres when the steering is near full lock. Happened on my IS300h and my GS when reversing off my driveway during cold weather when the tyres don't have as much grip.