ColinBarber

LED front headlights were standard on the premier. They were not available on any other grade, even as an option, including F-Sport. 2014-2017. All grades have LED DRL lights, and LED rear lights. Only in 2018 when Bi-LED headlights were introduced were they available as an option on the F-Sport, with the Premier Pack.

You shouldn't need Techstream to get the error code, just a code reader that will read manufacturer specific codes and not just standard engine codes. Something like Carista claim the following for the series IV GS: Dealer-level electronic diagnostics (fault code checking and resetting) of all modules in the vehicle, incl. ABS, airbag, and other manufacturer-specific systems.

What vehicle do you have - your profile shows an IS300h but you have posted in the NX forum? The NX has its DAB antenna at the top/middle middle of the windscreen, I guess right where your cam is.

Yes I would say it is this. Especially if it is only doing it on cold mornings. It can be difficult to determine but you want to make sure it is just the tyre skipping across the road surface rather than any mechanical play in the steering/suspension.

A common problem with the 522 - seems a very poorly designed device. If you have the rear camera then you may want to reroute the cabling on the other side of the vehicle so it is far away from the DAB antenna and signal cable.

I've looked into this. It is nothing more than driving the vehicle at which point the errors will clear: If the swing grille actuator assembly is replaced with a new one, perform the following procedure. Drive the vehicle at a speed of 5 km/h (3 mph) or more.

It can become very stiff

Very similar to the RC F. Same engine/transmission/brakes etc. The different is in the length, 12 cm extra wheelbase and 20 cm overall. RC F has the front end of the GS so has the same wheel track. I think the diff gearing is slightly different so RC F is faster accelerating. A fully loaded RC F is only 20 Kg lighter than the fully loaded GS F so there isn't as big of a weight different as you might expect, although you shed a few Kgs if you have an RC F without the TVD and no options etc. The GS build quality and spec is more inline with an RX rather than IS/RC. More soundproofing, HUD, larger infotainment screen, powered boot, powered rear blind, blind spot monitor and rear traffic alert is standard, auto seat heating/cooling etc.

Yes, the bars for the series IV GS fit the GS F. Max load across the two bars is 75 Kg.

Yes, the charger would probably take around 8 hours to complete charge a flat battery but if you can charge it for a couple of hours you should have enough charge to get the vehicle into Ready mode. You can connect to either the points in the engine bay or directly to the battery in the boot - makes no difference. Obviously you could take the battery completely out of the vehicle and charge indoors. That might be the best thing to do if your battery is completely flat. Let the charger fully charge the battery and then use the repair mode to help restore any capacity that has been lost because of it sitting in a discharged state.

Did you try and start the vehicle with a charger and not a spare battery or jump pack? Most battery chargers won't provide enough current and they aren't designed for that. You would just need to leave the charger connected for several hours to charge up the battery.

There appears to be at least 4 different error codes that can be generated by the system. You need a code reader to identify which one. There is also an initialisation procedure that needs to be performed if the module is replaced, otherwise it sits in a failsafe maintenance mode and produces a B1333 code. I imagine you need Techstream to correctly initialise it.

The actuator is an assembly that houses the motor, gears, sensor and some electronics. Unfortunately the price of non-service items aren't related to the cost of manufacturer. Part code is 88940-30100, same part is used on the series III IS but I'm not sure the UK ones have it, certainly my 2013 F-Sport didn't. The module on the Prius is different.

The problems there were mainly because it had been swapped/messed with, seemingly to change the mileage, and possibly it wasn't the correct one for the age/options of the vehicle. But yes it may not be as simple as just swapping it over and everything works.

The engine mechanics are the same - same block, pistons, crank, heads, cams, valves, throttle body etc. etc. I don't believe it was detuned so the LS has more kudos. They never did that in the past with the GS400 or GS430; the LS and GS are in very different market segments too. Maybe they kept the power low so the GS460 had roughly the same power across the world, even in the regions where the less powerful non-direct injection engine was used, or the intake does actually restrict power and the LS one doesn't fit into the GS engine bay and sloped bonnet and they didn't want to spend too much money on redesigning the old GS intake, or the rest of the vehicle is too near Toyota's design limits with the extra power (chassis, suspension, brakes etc).

What does your vehicle have at the moment, halogen or HID headlights?

I think that is 99% certain at this point, which is only a good thing.

All the covers I've seen don't look good. Just angle your heating vents towards the steering wheel 😉

Yes, that is I believe the correct one. The correct size and no sill at the bottom. Worth double checking your existing battery has the +ve terminal on the right hand just to make double sure.

The instrument ECU is built into the instrument cluster itself. It is possibly all self contained. Whether the plugs are the same or other changes on the body ECU are needed I don't know.

The cheaper one is the 38/45 Ah (5HR/20HR) one for the 400h. 28800-YZZZV The other is higher capacity and for the RX300. It probably won't physically fit in the 400h.

Yes, from what I can tell it is within the steering wheel. It is on later NXs with lane departure detection which vibrates the wheel when you cross a white line - best to get a wheel without that feature to make it easier to fit on an IS, if your IS doesn't have that.

The system, at least on the NX isn't that complex. It is a switch, that connects to the steering wheel. It doesn't interact with other systems or communicate via one of the buses - it uses dedicated wiring.

This, although you don't have volume control. The UX F Sport has Active Sound Control (ASC) which simulates conventional engine noise through the speakers. You need to switch it off. Not sure if you need to do that every time you start the vehicle or it remembers the setting (my GS for example turns it on every time 😞). On the UX, ASC works in normal and sport modes and doesn't in Eco and EV modes. Therefore if you don't want to hear it in normal or sport mode you need to press the ASC button to turn it off.

🙂 Yes it is all fused. Toyota normally do a good job of making their vehicle electronics bulletproof. But these aren't your normal 5A mini blade push in fuses, these are 120 A and 140 A fuses (output of DC/DC converter and directly off the battery +ve). I'm sure for most people changing those is an expense and an inconvenience they could do without.