ColinBarber

You need to have the mirror selector set to one of the mirror positions, either L or R. If you have it in the middle setting the dipping won't occur.

It doesn't. There is a resonance issue on the IS300h when the engine is running at around 1,300 rpm. I was able to produce it in my 300h, but I only ever got it at around 50 mph under slight engine load (going up a slight incline where I had to just press the throttle a tiny bit more to maintain speed). Any change in speed or throttle would stop it so I never bothered to get the 'fix' installed - which doesn't completely cure it anyway. Not sure what Lexus would charge to install it on a vehicle out of warranty - there was a TSB but only for owners that noticed and complained of the issue would get it fixed under warranty. I imagine a redesign of some components fixed this on later models, I've not heard of anyone complain of this on a 2016+ vehicle. Most people that have complained of this where in Europe, not sure if road surfaces or being left hand drive made the issue more apparent.

The new one will be built on a completely different platform with a complete new drivetrain. The only thing that it has with the old model are body panels that are shaped the same.

All of the components appear to be covered in a lacquer or other covering, presumably to provide moisture protection. Certainly the solder joints have something over them but it isn't corrosion. The white deposits seem the same as what is on the black plastic to the bottom right of your right arrow, grease - either during assembly, disassembly or that has just spread over time due to use/vibration etc.

In this situation I would recommend charging the battery disconnected from the vehicle to avoid the vehicle's electronics trying to power up on the charger which cannot supply enough current and voltage is too low whilst the battery is in a heavy state of discharge. You should either connect another battery/jump pack to the charging/jump connector in the engine bay. That will allow you to unlock the vehicle and open the tailgate to then disconnect the battery -ve terminal. If you don't have another battery to jump the vehicle from then you would need to use the manual release on the inside of the tailgate - the procedure is different depending on the design and if you have a power tailgate but initially involves removing the access panel: The full procedure is in the owners manual.

The sport has memory seats as standard.

Sport has it too. It requires the memory functionality and positioning sensors - any IS with memory seats/mirrors will dip the mirror in reverse.

Possibly the rails too, although the injectors themselves seem the same. If you purchased new pumps and rails from Lexus, you would be spending more money than the vehicle is worth.

Would look even better if the pictures actually captured the true colour, which is much deeper in real life.

There will be no 91 in the UK. The octane rating isn't changing from 95 for what we now consider standard grade fuel. The IS250 until 2008 is incompatible with E10 because the fuel pumps are made of an aluminium grade that will corrode with E10 fuel. Different pumps were used from 2008.

You need it set to Volts, 20v scale if it isn't an auto-ranging meter. Definitely make sure you don't have it set to current (Amps) or have the lead plugged into the Amp socket. Like this one:

The only way to find out is send a sample for oil analysis to see if the oil is holding up and there isn't too much metal which would indicate wear. It isn't too common in the UK but many people do it in the US.

I would measure the voltage across the battery with the engine turned off. You should see something around 12.4 to 12.8 volts. Then turn on the headlights for 30 seconds and see if the voltage drops under 12 volts. If it does I would charge the battery before repeating the test. If after charging you see under 12v with the headlights on then your battery is not in good shape. If the battery seems ok then start the engine, you should see the voltage read above 13 volts, and up to 14 volts if you rev the engine passed 2,200 rpm. Then turn on your headlights and rear window heater and make sure the voltage doesn't drop. That will test the alternator is working to a reasonable level.

@mrteach1973, in future please can you refrain from starting multiple threads on the same subject. You have created three which I've merged together.

I think it would be too simplistic to state that is all just down to the oil without doing a fair amount of research. For example stresses are much higher with compression ratios averaging 11:1 or greater now compared to 9.5:1 back in the 90s. The number of people on these forums that have mechanical issues with their engines is minute compared to other issues and I don't believe Toyota are so much better than anyone else, certain not the other Japanese manufacturers. Many issues on European manufactured engines are poor designs/poor electronics that when failing stress the engines, but I acknowledge these are also the ones that push oil change intervals to the extremes.

I agree, and many drivers will allow the vehicle to slow slightly going up a hill rather than waste a bit more fuel trying to maintain a very specific speed, which the CC will do. I also find that if you are slowed down by another vehicle, to get back up to cruising speed again the CC will accelerate harder than a normal driver will do - again using more fuel.

I think that is stretching things to the point of needing a tin foil hat. The main driver for extended oil changes was the fleet purchasers who would decide what company car vehicles you could choose based on the TCO including servicing costs. It created a bit of an arms race between the European manufacturers to extend service intervals. The same vehicles with the same engines still had the old 3k to 5k service internals in the US. I don't believe there is any evidence that the engine mechanicals have suffered as a result of extended oil change intervals anyway, due to improvements in the oils being used and improved engine designs. The amount of people needing to rebore an engine has been decreasing year on year for decades. In the 80s and 90s getting to 100k was a big achievement and made a vehicle almost impossible to sell. Now, many people don't have an issue purchasing a vehicle with 100k miles on the clock.

Possibly just your 12v battery isn't charged or is not able to hold a full charge rather than assuming an alternative fault. Do you have a volt meter you can measure the voltage of your battery? Do you have a battery charger?

The base model is very well spec'd. Up to you if you think the extras are worth the money. Here is the brochure of the ES at that age Lexus_ES_e-brochure-2.pdf

details around options here: RC F v3.pdf

MOTs are only carried out once a vehicle is three year's old so it won't have a record. If you have service history you could phone the dealer who did the last service. Otherwise an HPI check would verify mileage but that is only if the previous owner filled in the mileage on the DVLA form - which isn't compulsory.

there is a point because once you change gear you don't want the power to have dropped too much, so you should rev to at least the point where the revs don't fall below 4800 after the change, probably 5300

Assuming the grades in Ireland are the same as UK then that is an ES base grade. It doesn't have the triple LED headlights of the Takumi or the base grade + premium pack. It certainly isn't an F Sport - it doesn't have the F Sport wheels or front grille. It won't have CarPlay from the factory, but I think the retrofit is now available at dealers - you will have to check with your local dealer what they will charge to upgrade it.

No idea why you think you need to shift at 4,000 rpm for optimal boost. That isn't really true in your engine and certain isn't true for a generic turbo engine. Optimal shift point vary but normally into 3rd gear and onwards it is near the redline of the engine.

What is the problem you are experiencing with the gauges? How are they misbehaving?