ColinBarber

Some tax dodging thing no doubt. I didn't think you can reclassify a vehicle, the manufacturer would have classified it as a car when it went through homologation.

Unlike an extended/used warranty, you are free to have your vehicle serviced at any independent and maintain the new car warranty - provided the schedule is adhered to. But I agree it is a little odd, especially as it would devalue the vehicle greater by not having full Lexus history than any saving made in the first two or three years.

The problem is that almost all aftermarket suspension items are designed to be harder, even at the softest setting - it is why people are upgrading. Also if you are lowering then you have less suspension travel, so you need to have higher spring rates to avoid bottoming out too often.

If you are referring to ARM ASSY, FRONT SUSPENSION UPPER, RH then I believe the part code is: 48610-59065 and from what I can see, IS300h and IS200t share the same part and it was the same part used on the series II IS250/220d https://www.toyodiy.com/parts/xref?s=48610-59065&mE=on https://lexus.7zap.com/en/eu/lexus+is/242530/ase30r-aezlzw/2/4802/484440/#48610

yes and yes.

It is fine to mix 95, 97, 99 fuel. Not entirely sure how long the vehicle will take to adjust to make use of higher octane but you would probably want to run for a couple of tanks to see if you can notice the difference. Personally on non high performance vehicles I only see something like a 5% mpg gain at best, but given that super unleaded is 10% more expensive in my area it doesn't cost out. If you want to use the more expensive fuel for the cleaning additives then you wouldn't need to use it all the time - maybe 1 tank full in 5.

It is not on the base grade unless you added at least the comfort pack.

If you want something simple to use then Carista, with their dongle, is probably the easiest thing to use. Works on your phone, no cables. But it can be expensive to continually subscribe and you don't get the full diagnostic capabilities of Toyota's Techstream but it will read all fault codes and allow you to set all available customisations. If you purchase their dongle you get 1 month free access: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Carista-Bluetooth-Adapter-Scanner-Technology/dp/B00YVHGTBM/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=carista&qid=1614722938&sr=8-4

Series I are certainly rare these days. Only a few hundred left on the road.

Plenty of academic studies have been produced on the advantages and disadvantages of adding Ethanol to fuel. The particular issue why the IS250 cannot cope with E10 is due to lack of water rather than there being too much, and it isn't about how long fuel is held in the tank for. https://www.diva-portal.org/smash/get/diva2:720728/FULLTEXT01.pdf https://www.iea-amf.org/content/fuel_information/ethanol/e10/e10_compatibility/ https://www.iea-amf.org/content/fuel_information/ethanol/e10/e10_compatibility/

If the vehicle hadn't been used much then maybe the 12v battery was partially discharged which can result in spurious errors being generated. Check the battery, charge if necessary and see how it goes - hopefully the error won't return. If it does then you need a better code reader than you read non-engine systems, specifically Toyota/Lexus codes.

Identical power from the engine and hybrid system, geared the same way too. Under all metrics the IS300h is faster than the GS300h, it has around 100 Kg less weight to haul around. Lexus actually quote a 0.8 sec 0-62 mph difference but I don't actually believe the difference is that great. No, the 200t took over but was never available in the UK. Big saloon vehicles don't hold their value well, and the GS certainly never has, but the 250 is the worst of the lot and therefore can be picked up for a good price - but the depreciation will continue. Depending on how many miles you do the fuel economy could be a factor, and the road tax is > £300 a year over the 300h.

I assume you have read through this post: You can get wiring diagrams from here for around £4 for an hour's access: https://www.lexus-tech.eu

There are 70+ fault codes that can illuminate those warning lights, each one typically having multiple causes. I'd recommend you obtain the fault code to help you efficiently diagnose the issue.

with it still in gear?

and if not then go further with the test and shift into neutral and coast. If you are moving along at speed in neutral with the engine idling and you are still hearing a noise then it is contained to the output of the transmission/prop shaft bearing/rear differential/wheel bearing.

To be clear, the vehicle only unlocks on touching the door handle when in possession of the keyfob, not just by being near the vehicle. Yes, the system can be deactivated. Through the menu system on the dashboard (and possible in the vehicle settings in the infotainment screen). There will be a setting for the Smart Entry and start system which you can turn off. When disabled, you will need to present the key fob up to the start button to turn on the vehicle rather than just pressing the button with the key fob in your pocket.

No unfortunately not. Different wiring looms, electronics and parts purchased as spare parts would cost at least three times what the factory package costs.

The problem with OBDAutoDoctor is that it only supports industry standard engine error codes. It doesn't interrogate or understand Toyota specific body and non-engine systems/codes. Toyota's Techstream system obviously does, but there are apps that will also give you the codes such as Carista. It could be a battery issue, but I don't expect them to pop up once you are driving about and the battery is being charged, they normally appears are you try and get the vehicle into 'Ready' mode so it may be something like an ABS wheel sensor playing up.

Turn off the interior light. If you a listening to the stereo, or using the 12v cig lighter output then made sure the vehicle is in Ready mode and not just with the ignition turned on. In Ready mode the engine will start, but will switch off again once up to temp and then cut in and out as the hybrid battery charge gets too low.

Personally I've used them to get ready to overtake something - have the engine ready at a higher rpm so you have less delay in acceleration when you press the throttle. The other use would be to simulate engine braking if you decent a steep hill. Yes but if the hybrid system has turned off the engine you have to press the accelerator down quite a bit before it will start it up. Remember you don't have an automatic, you have a CVT hybrid so the engine rpm doesn't rise and fall with gear ratios.

It very much sounds like a temperature related thing. Either a poor solder joint or a component that has gone out of temperature tolerance. Easy enough for an electronics engineer to diagnose with a trusty hairdryer and freezer spray but not something Lexus are ever going to fix other than to be happy to sell you a complete £1000 unit and swap it over at £150 an hour.

I didn't think the rear indicator design has the ability to be sequential - isn't it quite small?

All Lexus vehicles are Toyotas. The NX is a Rav4, the GS is a Crown, the IS is a Mark X etc. They are all built from a Toyota platform and use a Toyota drivetrain. Seems you don't like the newer Lexus styling and interiors. It's a complaint that many people have of the newer generations coming from older ones.

Yes, you will need an amp that accepts speaker level inputs or use line-out convertors. I'd probably take feeds away from the rear doors into the amp, and run the sub and rear speakers from the amp. I'm assuming that the headunit doesn't filter out low frequencies to the door speakers so the amp will get a full frequency signal - I see no reason why they would have gone to those lengths.