ColinBarber

Yes I'm not saying they are not innovative but they are conservative in making sure it is ultra reliable and over-engineered before coming to market. Once they put something into production they tend not to deviate or move to shorter design cycles, even when you see the market has moved. Their vehicle sales massive decline as they age but they stick closely to their 6 year production cycle. They were the last major manufacturer to put Carplay/Android Auto functionality on their infotainment systems because they wanted to keep control and, incorrectly, believe their system is better. They are very reluctant to move to Lithium-Ion batteries in their hybrids, even though it will be lighter and therefore increase space, reduce weight and improve mpg over the Ni-MH. Given the world of technology is now driving the vehicle industry, with lots of manufacturers rapidly developing new ideas they need to be careful not to be left behind. I'm not suggesting they become like VW and launch an ID.3 with multiple software bugs but they need to move at a quicker pace.

'was' is the word. It has been in decline partly due to its age and partly because the SUVs have taken over. The Corolla hybrid has effectively replaced the CT, and outsells it 13:1 even though they are roughly the same price and the top spec Corolla, which is more expensive than the same CT, outsold all CTs. Lexus is niche in Europe, probably always will be until the 10% import tariff is wiped away over time. You may not like their direction, or the decisions they have made, but 2019 was their best ever year in terms or vehicle sales and market share in the UK, both stats which were then bettered again in 2020 - so to say their strategy on hybrid only is wrong hasn't played out. Japanese companies, and Toyota in particular, are conservative and slow - their lack of plug-ins and EVs may well cause them problems in the next few years if there demand really takes off - for now there are too many people with range anxiety to go EV and therefore see hybrid as the best option.

They get slapped from Lexus GB if they do - all dealers are forced to price servicing the same. But yes if you have a quiet word, individual dealers have been known to do you a special deal.

Is there a way to clear your connected services username/password - that should stop it connecting to the service and producing that error. Or turn off settings such as automatic memory point download to stop it trying to connect to the service. I'm not sure the £25 connected services subscription gets you a map update, just the ability to get live traffic, fuel prices, weather, parking etc. With regards to the eshop, try different browsers - I've had issues with it downloading maps for my wife's Prius working sometime and not others. Incidentally her three year free maps update has expired but I don't get an error message on the Toyota system - I've not tried to connect since it expired, I assume it would give a similar message but it certainly doesn't do it every time I access the nav system or start the vehicle.

Better to run the wires out of the boot and close it with the meter outside - you want everything shut to properly simulate the vehicle in its normal state. Same with the bonnet if the battery is in the front - the alarm isn't going to properly activate with it open. An alternative is to put a torch in the boot along with a mobile phone and video call it from another device so you can monitor the meter. Or turn off the interior sensor of the alarm and remain in the vehicle so you can monitor the meter directly (not ideal but very unlikely to be an issue with the interior motion sensor).

We are speculating how this particular vehicle was stolen but I don't imagine it was done by breaking a window and opening the door from the inside which the deadlocks prevent. Possibly a relay attack, possibly got onto a BUS and used diagnostic equipment to unlock/program a key via wiring in the engine bay (which Lexus aren't particularly vulnerable to), possibly a cloned key that was done days/weeks/months ago. One thing to check is whether your mechanical key will operate the deadlocks - on some Lexus vehicles that is possible, on others not. You don't want to deadlock and then find you have no way into the vehicle if the battery goes flat.

Agreed, I think we can end it here.

Small/medium hatchbacks and SUVs are the only things that sell these days in any meaningful numbers. Unless that changes I cannot see another Lexus saloon being offered in the UK.

Yes that would work but it would produce a fault code unless careful which would point to where the problem lies - which may not be a problem but the thieves probably have diagnostic equipment with them if they are going to try and programme a new key and disable the immobiliser. In a modern Toyota/Lexus with no mechanical wire backup there are two independent potentiometers in the pedal assembly and the ECU monitors both - if they deviate from one another too much you will get an error code and the ECU can probably determine which one is faulty and will continue to operate with just one - so you need to make sure you disable both. The system can also detect high and low voltage errors - for example fully closed is 1v and fully open is 4v. If you break the circuit you get 0v at the ECU and receive a sensor under voltage error. If you put the signal high to 5v supply you get an over voltage error. So you need to inject a 1v signal on both circuits to avoid an error code/warning light and disable the pedal. There are plenty of other options where you can interrupt a circuit. EFI relay circuit, fuel pump relay circuit, crank sensor, brake pedal switch which allows shift lock release, gear level circuit etc. etc.

Likewise, not sure what you mean. When the engine is off all the fluid in the main part of the transmission sits in the pan. You drain the pan and there is just a little bit left where the lip of the drain is (around 0.5 L). Once you remove the pan no more fluid comes out. This is a good pictorial. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-3rd-gen-2006-2011/838073-changing-transmission-filter-strainer-diy-w-pics.html

You only get another 0.5 L at most in the bottom of the pan unless it wasn't drained correctly or vehicle not level.

shoes

It invalidates any Lexus GB extended warranty It is fine for the initial 3 year manufacture's warranty

Just to add, I believe you have an AGM battery so you should be using AGM charging and repair modes.

I would yes. It should be okay to leave it connected but why take the risk. Perfectly fine to run the repair cycle in place, no need to take it inside.

They do, or certainly did, which is why the Mirai has existed for a long time now, and why their EV development has been slow to date, but progress is extremely slow. It may ultimately be the solution but I think EVs will be the stepping stone for some time.

yep, or epoxy, or even something like this which I've used for a few different things in the past: https://www.screwfix.com/p/geocel-the-works-pro-sealant-and-adhesive-white-290ml/124jj

The IS300h has been very reliable; the 2013 models aren't showing up any common faults so you would be unlucky to run into issues in the next couple of years. £14.5k seems about right purchasing from a non-Lexus dealer - a trade in would be around £2k less so you aren't getting a great, not to be missed deal. 6 year service is a big one - £655, although you should be able to get it as an essentials service for around £500 if you wished.

The biggest hurdle is repairing the damage caused so you make it somewhat dirt and water proof again.

It does lock in place automatically, certainly on the UXe anyway, and only allows release once you unlock the doors. Otherwise yes it would be the modern equivalent of kids steeling everyones dust caps. Even if there is a vehicle that doesn't lock it in place, they all have Internet connectivity where the owner would be notified on their phone app that charging had been interrupted.

😁 Take a look at this video - the sensor get dry solder joints that need to be reworked. You then need to repair the damage you do getting into it - easier just to replace it but may be expensive. Given that it may be a dry joint issue you may find the problem is intermittent and will work okay the next day but will come back until you correct the issue.

I'm sure there is something either side of the picture that will stop the vehicle, but as it is, that is looking as effective as this gate 😁

I think it is the one at the back - the one directly connected to the accelerator cable mechanism - not the one on the other side.

The battery shouldn't be dropping that much so either you have a damaged battery that cannot hold a full charge or you have excessive power draw from your vehicle. Of the two I would suspect the battery. Given you have a Noco 5, I would fully charge the battery and then do a repair cycle on it to see if it can restore some of that capacity and last a little longer. Otherwise you need to measure the current being drawn from the battery once all doors/bonnet/boot are shut and the vehicle has been locked for 30 mins.

The fly-by-wire throttle is disabled so all you have is the mechanical throttle cable linked to the throttle body - you need to press the accelerator down almost 3/4 before it starts to work, you only get part throttle range and because the electric motor isn't operating the throttle it is stiffer - it is just a limp mode to get you home.