ColinBarber

The beauty of the eCVT system is it allows the engine to operate at its most efficient rpm at any particular moment. So when you want to accelerate the engine rpm is almost instantly increased to obtain maximum power, which for your engine is around 5,5000 rpm. It doesn't have to slowly build up to that speed, or go beyond it and fall back down multiple times as you would with a normal transmission. The downside of the high and constant engine speed is the noise associated, the 'drone' as many motoring journalists refer to it as.

Mid sized, in the UK at least.

Yes, it's something that Toyota improve on with each hybrid generation. The UX for example will cut the ICE at speeds up to 71 mph.

I imagine that David was referring to the former, EV mode - rather than the latter which is EV operation. Which is limited to around 40 km/h (or certainly used to be).

I was around 30 when I joined LOC. A long time ago now 😞

EV Drive mode (by pressing the EV button), or in a standard drive mode and the system automatically turning off the ICE and illuminating the EV light? The two have very different operating parameters.

Do you have a manual or auto transmission? When you go up hill what does the engine rev up to, and what gear are you in? I don't see how an engine flush is going to solve this issue - there is something else wrong.

Duck

This does depends on the year you are looking at but: There are a couple of seat colours that have a light roof lining - a cream leather and a tan leather at launch. For MY2020 there is also a two-tone cobalt and white leather which also has a light lining. At launch (MY2019) the F Sport with either Premium Plus pack or the Takumi Pack have the 10.3" display, as does the full Takumi grade. For MY2020, the standard UX grade with the newly introduced Premium Pro Pack also gets you the 10.3" display. All UXs have electrically folding mirrors - but they are manually operated by a switch. The only ones that will auto fold on locking/unlocking are the F Sport grade with Takumi Pack or the Takumi grade.

Welcome Steven. Hopefully someone will be able to advise you on your white smoke issue.

Take a look at https://ev-database.uk to see what's available.

These are the UK RC F colours (except the 10th anniversary edition):

Yes you will always get a bit of wear as the contact surface is worn to match the exact wheel geometry but that shouldn't be too different from the opposite side, unless you have a wheel alignment issue, the same as when you put a new tyre on.

probably a result of cleaning the throttle body. Any dirt removed from the butterfly creates a slightly larger opening which results in more air and therefore a higher idle, until the ECU compensates and closes it down.

4 ohms is the most common impedance for car speakers but could be between 2 and 8 ohms - the speaker may have it written on the back. But the fact that you have tried another speaker suggests it is a problem is elsewhere - such is the headunit/amp or a tweeter if it is connected in parallel to the main door speaker. If your vehicle has sat nav then it is possible that only the driver's door speaker is used for voice commands and therefore extra circuity could be in play (this is how old Lexus vehicles used it operate). All this is assuming your fader/balance controls aren't just taking that speaker's output down to almost nothing 😉

You should disconnect the speaker and measure its resistance across the two terminals which should be around 4 ohms. The tweeter is connected to a separate output on the amp to the low and mid range drivers so it could be an issue with the amp or wiring from it in the boot to the door.

It doesn't look like it is down passed the clear coat so it would polish out but you would have to reduce the clear coat thickness quite a bit in that area so a smart repair that fills it would be best - or a panel respray. Luckily USB isn't a sonic 5 layer paint so can be matched - my dealer managed to put a reasonable sized chip in the drivers door on my old IS300h F Sport USB when it was in for an MOT, and the repair they had done was invisible.

I think that is somewhat dependent on the type of driving the vehicle is subjected to. Urban driving in an area of lots of roundabouts would wear the outside edge of the NSF and therefore you would benefit from swapping them over on the same axle if your tyres were non-directional. At worst it would do no harm and only waste about 15 mins of your time, and gives you a chance to lube up the brake calliper sliding pins whist you have the wheels off.

There are around 25 different codes related to tmps, you cannot have outstanding errors if you want to register a sensor.

If you look in the engine bay you will have servos on top of the suspension struts which control the dampening if you have AVS.

There is a separate siren to the horns that should sound when the alarm goes off. Are they just cutting the wire or shorting it so something blows when the alarm goes off?

Does your vehicle have AVS? If not then there is nothing that is adjustable. If it does then it should only be noticeable stiffer in Sport+ mode. Did you (over)inflate your tyres yesterday?

How long? Quite a bit of cracking on the outer tread. Have you run them under-inflated at some point?

That's a little unfair, inline 6 engines are super smooth, more so than V6s. The modern V6s with very high compression ratios aren't as smooth as older V6s. I don't think it is the engine smoothness at fault here though - there is possibly resonance vibration elsewhere causing the issue (triggered by the engine).

Well it is impossible to tell if the inner primary tread has less depth than the outer one just by the pictures. Yes the very inner edge is worn but that could be down to regularly driving over speed cushions rather than an alignment issue.