ColinBarber

Not aware of any series IV RXs being affected, and Lexus haven't designed a catloc for this series due to no demand. In theory the newer vehicles aren't a target as the cats aren't worth as much - I guess that remains true whilst there are older more precious ones to steal.

Not sure what that is from - the code isn't a Toyota part code. The IS-F space saver is actually 18" but I don't think that will fit on the RC F hence you need a 19" one like this.

Here's one - prices seems to have gone up: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HEADLIGHT-LEVEL-ADJUSTER-SENSOR-FOR-TOYOTA-PRIUS-TACOMA-LEXUS-RX-ES-MAZDA-RX-8/233783813889?hash=item366e99e701:g:~28AAOSwHHBfoVxF or not via ebay which is cheaper: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33056820011.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.723b732ePXl56U&algo_pvid=e6c800fc-d6b2-4afa-ad59-e9f2c8e27d2c&algo_expid=e6c800fc-d6b2-4afa-ad59-e9f2c8e27d2c-1&btsid=0b0a050b16185591281841723e65cb&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_ Remember that whilst your vehicle was registered in 2009, it was manufactured in 2008 - hence you need use 2008 when searching for parts.

In that case why would there be a separate part code for an F Sport wing when they are the same as a standard one? I've only found a report of someone purchasing these badges which was in the US where he mentions having to cut off the lugs to fit it on a non F Sport vehicle. But the easiest way to answer is to remove your wheel arch lining and look behind, or heat up the badge and pull it off.

Remove your wheel arch lining if you want to be sure, but unless your wing has been replaced you are almost certainly going to find two holes in it.

you can try turning on the ignition with the alarm going, that stops it if you have to manually unlock the vehicle with a mechanical key when the alarm is set.

Sounds like your battery needs replacing - possibly has a short in it if it is going flat that quickly unless there is a substantial drain elsewhere. I think you are going to need a reasonable sized lead acid battery to jump from - if your battery is that flat any small booster pack will be drained charging your battery if you have to leave on for 6 minutes.

because Toyota are perfectionists and want the badges correctly aligned, and it saves time in production.

The door shouldn't have been touched. Adjusting the doors is difficult. Not easy to get to the bolts and they are normally tight so you need the right tools, even then you only have tiny adjustment available unless you change the centring bolts for normal ones that give you more adjustment. How is it out, has it dropped?

If your vehicle has lost its immobiliser programming then it will learn the key in the lock after around 6 minutes. You don't need to do it if the security light goes out when you put the key in the ignition. If it remains on/flashing then the immobiliser is still active and therefore the vehicle won't start.

The problem is similar to wheels. They are supplied by the OEM pre-coloured; there are different part codes for the black and orange ones. Therefore because Toyota don't paint them, they don't have a colour code - they are just referred to as Brembo orange.

Open it in Preview and search for the page number.

They have some additional figures on the European website, which aren't clear what they are but I assume are from one of the different test phases (e.g. city/low) but the 4.5 l/100 km is the official combined figure that should be used.

The facelift models have the following suspension and steering changes: Front: Steering knuckle and front lower suspension arm assembly are changed from steel to forged aluminium to reduce weight and increase rigidity. The lower arm bushing was also changed. New shocks with different damping, different spring rates and upper mounts. Power steering ECU programming revised. Rear: Anti-roll bar bushing redesigned.

I think Toyota are very transparent on their UK website:

Well, most do...

If your priority is comfort then you want one with 17" wheels, not 18" ones that the Premier has.

used daily

Both the +ve and -ve connections to the hybrid battery are electrically isolated when the vehicle is turned off so it isn't necessary. I cannot find any mention in the body repair manual to state the isolator needs to be removed for welding - only if you are working on the HV systems. The main thing to make sure happens is the welding ground lead is connected as close to the welding as possible, actually on the exhaust. Connecting to the chassis for example would mean a circuit through the oxygen sensors/ECU 😱

😞 After the 400h one needed a redesign due to vibration/noise I would have expected better testing to have occurred on the series III one. Lets hope it is just an installation issue.

It is a cat. The set up is the same as with the older 400h. Two primary cats built into the exhaust headers within the engine bay and a secondary cat just behind the engine under the floor of the vehicle.

Yes, you loose 37 litres which I believe is the whole of the under floor space.

Between my wife and I we have had 15 Toyota vehicles, 7 with a T badge and 8 with an L - two of them RXs, a series I 300 and a series II 400h.

You should be able to get £500+ off if it is the dealer's own stock - if it is a Lexus GB vehicle then they won't normally move. You have more chance nearer the end of the month when sales targets need to be met.

The only negative is that the battery would discharge quite a bit in 3 weeks, this cycling will weaken the battery. It would be better to charge it for 2 hours every week. There shouldn't be a need to disconnect the battery from the vehicle when you charge it.