ColinBarber

Features are added/changed and corrections made on a yearly basis these days, but back then I doubt there is a difference in the 2003-2005 manual. Just be aware that most of the manuals online for that age of RX are for US vehicles which have differences to UK vehicles. It wasn't until around 2010 that Lexus GB started to make electronic versions of the manuals available.

Did I miss national EV day yesterday then? Maybe you didn't mean today as in the 24-hour period 😉 I can't say I've notice any difference of EV vs non-EV drivers, I think you have just been unlucky - or you only take particular notice of a vehicle if the owner misbehaves? If anything you should start to see an improvement as EVs and modern vehicles increase in numbers. Telsa's semi-autonomous features require correct behaviour - e.g. automatic lane changing is performed by the driver using the indicators - everything else is then performed by the vehicle. It is a real thing but isn't achieved by not using your indicators - they use such a tiny amount of energy that you wouldn't actually benefit in anything more than an extra metre or two.

That is wrong. Current T&Cs for extended warranty service interval leeway is 30 days/2,000 miles. There is no leeway on a HHC as you never need a service part way through the warranty period - you get 12 month/10k miles warranty and at the end you get another one with a new HHC - although I'm sure Lexus could provide a goodwill gesture if you kept within 30 days and attempted to book a service before and couldn't get availability at your local dealer. HHC cover isn't applicable here if the battery has been damaged by something external (e.g. water). If water ingress is due to a fault with the vehicle then a valid warranty on the failed part would be required (e.g. an extended vehicle warranty).

Just British humour; we are correct, and everyone else who doesn't do as we do are wrong 😉 Some cars, including most German built cars, are clearly built as LHD. Toyota go to extreme lengths to change everything over so if the dashboard is slightly angled towards the driver, it will be whether the vehicle is LHD or RHD. I've been in Volvos where the dash is angled away from the driver, I've even been in a Merc where they couldn't even be bothered to change over the wipers so the passenger has a clearer view than the driver. If Toyota decide the power button on the stereo should be closest to the driver and tuning furthest away then that is how it should be and therefore all controls are mirrored, so drivers of LHD or RHD get the same experience. One thing that isn't, and hasn't been for many years, is the indicator/wiper stalks which are now fixed with indicators on the driver's left hand. This is wrong for a RHD vehicle but all manufactures have agreed on a global standard to avoid confusion. The only other thing the doesn't get swapped is the fuel filler. These are on the correct side for a RHD vehicle (left of the vehicle) on nearly all Toyotas given they drive on the left - probably too much effort to change that over and it is good to have a mixture of both types on the road so we can fill up together either side of the pump.

There is a TSB in the US for this, but if there isn't an equivalent one for Europe then it won't matter. Either there is one and you have changed parts, or your dealer successfully submitted a warranty claim that the pads you had were faulty and you just got a new set of the same part - and the issue will likely come back again if you don't aggressively use the brakes (at least occasionally). MC-10152169-9999.pdf

Get everyone you know to sign this: https://petition.parliament.uk/petitions/575859?utm_source=LexusOwnersClubUK&utm_medium=ForumLinks

Nice, welcome Chris.

Get one out and measure it just to make sure the ones I linked to are correct. You will find some are easier that others to come out, and certainly worth trying to move one side up a notch first, then the other and repeat rather than pulling directly up.

It was/is a problem for the F vehicles and Lexus have a service bulletin for the RC F where owners can get them replaced for ones that have a different friction material, with a warning that the vehicle should no longer be used on the track. For some reason Lexus GB didn't extent that to the GS F (both are covered in the US). The LC doesn't use such an aggressive high metal content pad so surprised it is a problem. Many F owners have moved to EBC redstuff or yellowstuff pads which are quiet and have less dust but whilst yellows ones seem to be in development they aren't available yet for the LC. Therefore your options may be limited to importing something from the US.

Yes, whilst the load capacity for the rails is around 80 Kg, the bike carrier itself is probably only 20 Kgs. I'm sure with the front wheel off it would fit inside with the rear seats down.

It is there on the F Sport. I'm sure I used the two stage option in the past on my 2013 model. Here is the section from the manual:

They can be annoying, difficult to remove but easy to put back in (if you don't chew it up removing it). https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291931202808 You can get various trim removal tools that will go under the head and level it up. Or get a long thin flat head screwdriver through the hole and pul from both sides, and you may find it easier to pull up one side then the other to work it out.

So who in Lexus technical did you speak to? They should be fired for lying or being incompetent. The series IV is no different from the series II 400h, or the series III 450h. Same for the Prius and CT200h etc. Yes on the RX the two front cats are in the engine bay as part of the exhaust manifold (headers) - one for each bank. But there is a second cat under the vehicle which is the one that is cut out. The series IV isn't a target because older cats are worth more money, there are more older vehicles on the road, and the organised gangs learn certain vehicles so they can steel the cat as quickly as possible (e.g. know how to disable the alarm, best jacking point, exactly where to cut).

Yes, all the middlemen have stepped in. There are around a dozen different sellers that have brought them into the UK and added their margin to it. Most hopefully do actually hold stock in the UK but I've certainly experienced a UK seller where the part has come directly from China. There are still a couple of sellers from China I've found, e.g.: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/294052223090?epid=0&hash=item4476e0d872:g:L8cAAOSwfCZgRfdz

signed

Any car on the road fitted with a cat could be a target, but I haven't heard of a single instance of a series IV RX being targeted. Cats on newer vehicles are supposedly not as valuable.

The lead on the Noco is short because a jump start pack can deliver hundreds of amps and therefore the leads needs to be heavy gauge and short to reduce resistance. Given that for a hybrid the 'starting' current is very small you can extend those cables with something that can handle 30 A not 300 A and bring them into the cabin. If you do, you need to ensure that the cable is fused as close to the battery as possible to avoid a short causing damage to the battery and a fire hazard.

Not the secondary cat which is what is stolen.

Some of the DAC instructors explicitly mention Admiral group with a conclusion that you should take your business elsewhere. If anything you should get a discount having gone through a driving refresher course and are probably more aware as a result.

You should certainly check normal things first such as valve clearance, although I see no reason why 2 cylinders would be bad and not the others. Equally LPG conversions for the IS200 can be problematic with valve wear, but I'd expect all cylinders to show signs of a problem if that were the case.

That fact that two cylinders next to each other are low leads to think there is a leak between them, probably head gasket but could be crack in block, but could be something else. Not aware of any common issue on that engine with those two cylinders.

It's the audio system amp. Obviously not an ML one if you don't have an ML system. Probably made by Pioneer.

In my experience it doesn't make a difference (possibly if it becomes a regular occurrence). They are grateful to get a repair rather than the cost of a screen replacement.

Why don't you want to open the bonnet?

If you have P1126 then the electronic throttle is disengaged and you only have the mechanical throttle cable backup to open the butterfly, hence why you can only rev to 3,000 rpm - it is a limp mode just to get you home. If the clutch isn't working then the throttle motor isn't connect to the butterfly. Did you change the TPS and then get the code? What error were you getting to change the TPS? Check the throttle motor electrical connector in case you have disturbed that whilst changing the TPS