ColinBarber

It's normally only available for older vehicles and your choice is so limited that you could end up paying more for insurance compared to taking our GAP insurance. They have done the right thing by rejecting the dealer's offer as you will nearly always find cheaper elsewhere. If you don't have finance then I don't normally recommend GAP insurance. What gap are they trying to cover? If they have a total loss after a year for example then the insurance company should pay out enough to purchase the same car of a similar age and specification - obviously not £25k to purchase a year younger vehicle, but the market rate to replace the one just lost. GAP insurance is really to cover you if you have finance and you essentially end up in negative equity on your loan - because initial depreciation is higher than your monthly payments.

I think John just meant to put your vehicle in Ready mode for an hour to charge up the battery. If you have a charger then using that is certainly preferable.

Private trader or private seller? If a trader (be that a single person or a huge multi-dealership organisation) then by law they have to conform to the consumer rights act 2015, assuming the fault wasn't disclosed and you agreed to purchase with the fault. But yes 6th gear isn't that useful on the IS220d.

Hi Jaro Not a common problem. I assume it goes into gear fine, and it feels like it is fully engaged on the gear stick? There are a few causes of this, but all internal to the gearbox so isn't an easy or quick fix. Does it pop out of gear when you accelerate, come off the throttle or just at a random time? Did you purchase from a dealer? If so you should take it back and request that the issue is resolved.

The repair manual suggests a problem with the Body ECU or driver seat switch assembly if the seat belt detection is working correctly. The fact that the ignition isn't working correct at the same time suggests Body ECU to me (other than the brake pedal switch but you would have issues with brake lights too). Due to the very intermittent nature I would be worth reseating all the connector first. However before you do anything make sure your 12v battery has a good charge. All sorts of weird issues arise if the voltage is low when the vehicle tries to power up, and in these times of less vehicle usage it is a common issue.

If there was, we wouldn't need AA - that's exactly what AA does for us. There is, MirrorLink available on some vehicles. AA/CP however provides an interface that is more appropriate for a driver.

I've just used one of these to change brake/clutch fluid on a Yaris - worked really well other than the usual difficulty of getting a good seal around the bleed nipple. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B079JMTQZB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

When I had the cam belt changed on an RX300 (which has a very similar engine) it wasn't right and it also lit the check engine light with a VVT error - the belt was one tooth misaligned which the garage had to correct. Depending on which direction it is out I'm not sure you would always get a CEL. If it isn't too bad then maybe the battery was disconnected which resets the ECU - give it a few days to see if it returns to its normal self. You say you took it back and they checked it - did they really check it; it isn't a 2 minute job to check the timing marks as the covers need to be removed.

DVLA wouldn't be involved in illegal parking.

How low on fuel? If you get so low that you can misfire then you would get a CEL. Your second scenario doesn't sound as if it should generate a CEL - really need the code to understand this a bit more.

Same design in that they have a primary cat in the engine bay and secondary cat under the vehicle - that is what I was referring to. The physical design of the RX make it easier but I don't think that is going to stop the organised gangs targeting the NX if they felt is was financially worthwhile - the Prius doesn't have high ground clearance and the exhaust is somewhat recessed into the floor but that is the most commonly targeted vehicle.

Some series III RX have been targeted (2009-2015) and Lexus have developed a Catloc for that model now, but not the NX.

That is not the reason. The CT and RX have the same design.

It's whatever the dealership decided to do. You would expect most to go for the cheaper models but I've never had a CT or UX as a loan vehicle from Guildford - not saying they don't use them but I've never had one. The last time I used Reading, which was 2 years ago, I had a UX when my GS was in for a service. But I had my last service at Guildford and had a NX for the day. Just a few weeks ago my wife's UX was in for half a day getting the CarPlay update installed, again I got a NX as a loan vehicle.

Here's the full release. Don't be surprised if your dealer doesn't know about this yet. toyota-to-covertly-mark-more-than-100000-catalytic-converters-to-combat-theft.pdf

Seems to be a chicken and egg situation here as Toyota/Lexus won't develop a CatLock until a model becomes a target. Not sure we have heard of any NXs being targeted on these forums.

Seems to vary depending on the dealer. I've had NXs the last couple of times.

I think they price them so high to stop people turning their Sport into a Sport Plus.

Older Toyota/Lexus vehicles take a while to learn idle points, fuel trims etc. after an ECU reset (from a battery disconnection or ECU fuse pulled). They seem to need the vehicle to move/stop/go into neutral/park multiple times as part of the correction process which is why you notice it takes a few runs to sort out.

Are you going to be driving you car near the limit to really appreciate the extras the plus spec gives you? If not then you are paying a lot for a few cosmetic upgrades. Purchasing used, you have more choice with plus as many of the original press cars and dealer demonstrators where the full plus spec and are the ones up for sale at the moment.

Can't say I've ever had a problem with my series II RX, my current GS or my wife's UX. The button press is long and sometimes you don't press it down for long enough which is annoying but never had a problem with range (if door unlock works then so does the boot) or it refusing to open. The fact that you are hearing two beeps means the vehicle has received your signal to open the boot but the system is refusing to do so (or is configured not to).

No experience of those vendors. The fact that they are exchange units means they should be Lexus OEM callipers, just rebuilt with new seals and piston. I've never had a problem with autodoc before, others on LOC have used them too and I'm not aware of any issues. They just take time to ship your items - they normally always come from Germany and can take up to 10 days.

Here's a manual: https://myportalcontent.lexus-europe.com/Manuals/lexus/NX300h_EE_OM78010E.pdf

Normally you are ok to reuse the hoses and clips but as the rubber gets hard with old age the pressure from the spring clips may not create a great seal. 9 out of 10 times you will be ok. The 10th time needs jubilee clips which can be tightened to make sure the seal is good. There are pieces of foam around the edge of the rad which you may find crumbles away and need replacing.