ColinBarber

It's an inconsistent approach with Lexus. Years ago Lexus nav systems were mainly touch screens, but low down with the heating controls so it could be considered dangerous. There has been a recent trend in the last few years where screens are placed high up, and look like someone has just stuck a cheap tablet on the top of the dash, and Lexus followed suit with this design. But now they are moving back to touchscreens - on the latest RX refresh, which came out after the UX, the screen is still high up but moved forward so it can be reached (not easily) but they still provide the touchpad, so you have two input options. Now the next generation NX due at the end of the year has the screen back into the centre console area, but as high up as possible and is fully touchscreen with no other input method - so we have come full circle. I expect all new Lexus vehicles to follow this same design for at least the next few years - not sure a facelift UX would get that treatment as a major dashboard redesign is normally too big a change for a facelift but a series II UX probably will. RX Series II RX Series III RX Series IV RX Series IV facelift NX Series II

Maybe it had locked wheel nuts and they were removed so you just have an odd normal one.

I get the feeling it may be expensive 😉 If they can get supercapacitors working in that type of application then they eventually become available for BEVs too, at which point you might as well do away with the HFC as you can charge them up within minutes.

Hopefully you have updated it or pulled it off your home network due to the security vulnerabilities recently found on it?

Certainly more fun than any available hydrogen car as they are all relatively slow and lacking in handling.

but it's to make is easy for parents to get young kids in/out of car seats or for passengers to get in/out of the third row of seats (if you have a 6 or 7 seat option).

Provided you haven't worn through your existing wear sensors (i.e. the warning light is not on) then you can reuse them. I was happy with Redstuff on my GS F. Didn't really notice a performance drop for normal road use and it stopped the squealing and dust that I got from the OEM pads.

Yes, looks like the old style locking wheel nut with a cover over it. You should have a black plastic piece with your locking key which you push over the top of the cover and pull it off to reveal the actual locking wheel nut with the holes that the key goes into. If it is this type then the hex part of the nut will just spin around if you try a wrench on it because as you can see it is circular underneath.

It wouldn't be the first time. If many people have this issue then I'd say there is the possibility that the default setup doesn't suit our roads (crown top), RHD, specific wheel size/offset on one of the grades etc. But equally it could just be a few unlucky people who have had incorrect geometry which has worn the tyres and therefore even when geometry is corrected it doesn't fully resolve the issue without replacing the tyres. As with most things wheel geometry is a compromise, and the geometry out of the factory is normally one that gives safe predictable understeer, doesn't tramline too much and gives somewhat even tyre wear. If one is more important to you than another, or you want different handling characteristics then an expert will be able to dial that it - but it may mean that is goes outside the manufacturer's tolerances though.

Agreed. Tony Bones/WIM solved the IS200 inner tyre wear issue by altering the standard geometry settings; settings which Lexus and dealers then adopted. Someone who knows what they are doing can reduce the tendency to follow the road camber.

Do you have a chassis plate in the centre of the engine bay bulkhead or on the passenger door? You need to look at the C/TR figure which is a 3 character code. As your car is red it will start with a number 3 (e.g. 3P0).

It's very much down to how it is driven though with an EV. If you aren't using the extra power, you aren't polluting more which is different to an ICE. An ICE has to overcome additional weight, friction and pumping losses associated with a larger displacement which means my 5.0 l V8 cannot achieve the same economy as a 2.0 l Inline 4 performing the same test, in the same body, if speed and acceleration are identical - even though they are both outputting the same amount of power to the wheels. This isn't the same for an electric motor so you end up in the situation where a 1,000 bhp Tesla with a larger heavier body is as efficient as a 200 bhp Nissan Leaf when both performing the same test.

I'd get it booked in first before you worry about how much fuel you have - it may be weeks before your dealership can fit you in, or have the parts available.

No, publicly accessible. https://media.lexus.co.uk/lexus-offers-customers-unprecedented-warranty-cover-with-new-relax-programme/

That isn't to do with VVTi. Most likely that is the ACIS switching the air intake path and the ECU programming.

The battery is in the boot on the CT so nice and easy 🙂

I'd expect to see that in the body section but it's not there either (probably a mistake as I'm sure it should be covered):

VVT and VTEC are different things. Honda's equivalent is VEC (variable timing control). Toyota's VVTLi incorporates the lift functionality of VTEC in VVTi but that isn't implemented in many Toyota engines.

They certainly have - this is from the press release that went to all the motoring press:

Wishful thinking 😉 The T&Cs state what is included - satnav is not part of that: Also Lexus' definition of Multimedia appears to be: Lexus Multimedia Device including navigation instructions, bluetooth connectivity and smartphone integration with Apple CarPlay® and Android Auto® https://www.lexus.co.uk/owners/about-my-lexus/multimedia/#hero

Welcome David. The IS300 is a great car.

The whole generation thing is a bit of marketing nonsense to be honest as each new model has differences even within the 'generation' but there certainly are noticeable differences between the IS and UX. I find the UX battery assists the petrol engine much more than the IS (or a 4th gen Prius) when it would drop into EV mode more often. EV drive mode seems to be nearly always unavailable when it would be in an IS or Prius 4. It's really just for moving in/out of the garage without the petrol engine having to fire up - it shouldn't really be used in normal driving - it is less efficient to do so than just letting the system do its own thing.

Yes, if you are careful 😉

All 95 octane petrol will be E10 soon, if not already depending on your outlet.

It requires the full 20k mile service.