ColinBarber

They didn't fully do that, but then it isn't needed for what they are trying to achieve (this isn't a true off-road vehicle or a rally car) and the electric motor can start to deliver power within a fraction of a second when the system determines it needs to. When you pull away, depending on the amount of throttle and if the vehicle is on a slope, it will use the rear motor (to varying degrees) to aid traction. Outside of that the system is reactive based on the wheel sensors, yaw sensor and steering wheel angle.

I have the bootsliners.co.uk one. They do two different ones pre 2020 and 2020 facelift. I did point out to them that there isn't a 2020 facelift so I went with the pre 2020 for my MY2020 model which obviously fits fine. I'd assume the 2020 facelift is for the UXe - who knows, not worth the risk. Go with the genuine Lexus with subwoofer for a Takumi.

Hi Tim The functionality still exists but it isn't a setting that can be changed via the in-car menus. It is what is called a dealer customisation which means someone with Toyota Techstream software can alter the setting. Your dealer may or may not do this for free. You could obtain Techstream software, install on a laptop, get the correct ODBII cable and purchase a 1 day license to use the software. Alternatively more user friendly software such as Carista + dongle should be able to do this. It seems too many people complained about their cars having windows left open, and rain getting in, because they had sat on their keys which made Lexus change the default to be off for this functionality. 😠

Clunking noise could be the pads moving slightly in the callipers, normally you hear this as you change direction (forward/reverse) as the pads are pushed from one end to the other - you don't normally get it with repeated braking in a forward direction unless the clips are missing. A bit of brake grease will normally help. You can also get a clunking if the bottom slider pins (which commonly seize) haven't been put back with the bushing installed. Squealing could be the anti-squeal shims missing or lack of grease.

Looks like they are at the top based on a pic I've found

That's almost the difference between 4WD and AWD. Hardly any current-day road car AWD system provides power to front and rear in any sort of equal measure, it reacts to a loss before shifting the power.

E-FOUR ALL WHEEL DRIVE The UX 250h is available with either front-wheel drive or E-Four electric all-wheel drive. The E-Four all-wheel drive system uses a separate, dedicated high-torque electric motor integrated into the rear differential. Power distribution between the front and rear axles is automatically optimised by the Vehicle Stability Control (VSC) system when accelerating, cornering, or driving on slippery surfaces. E-Four provides stable driving on uphill slopes or snow-covered roads with lower fuel consumption than a conventional all-wheel drive system with a power split device and driveshaft. E-Four does more than assist traction in slippery conditions: it can also actively improve stability by adjusting rear-wheel power to help correct over or understeer.

This thread is about the UX. What does 'true' AWD mean? The hybrids with rear motors are AWD, they can drive all wheels.

Seems only LHD models in certain countries have the thiner rear discs from launch until MY2014 then they all got the thinner ones: certainly worth checking what you have before ordering replacements.

It doesn't have to be one or the other. An AWD with winter tyres would be even better. It also provides better traction during the months of using summer tyres when roads become slippery e.g. when it first starts to rain after a long dry spell. AWD isn't just about traction either, the stability control system uses it to counteract under/over steer. But unfortunately on the UX the extra motor doesn't provide any additional power/performance. Clearly it's a decision based on personal priorities. Myself, I didn't feel the advantages outweigh the disadvantages (cost, economy, boot space) so went with a 2WD variant, and it seems the vast majority feel the same as less than 5% of all UK UXs are AWD variants.

C1252 means the motor is running for too long (trying to build up pressure), and C1256 that the pressure doesn't build up correctly. Either you have a faulty motor, leak in the pressure accumulator or the pressure switch is faulty - probably in that order of likelihood. It should be possible for the pressure switch to be removed and external pressure applied to the system to see if there is a leak, and the pressure switch itself can be tested. Brushes worn on the motor is a distinct possibility given the age or the vehicle, they must have worn down quite a bit over the years. Many people when they get a fault like this they swap out the complete brake master cylinder/motor/accumulator unit with one from a salvaged car - the issue is that you don't know how much life that replacement has in it so repairing the motor would be good to do if you can find someone to do it.

Well over 60% of Tesla owners don't get free charging.

try finding your part codes here: https://lexus.7zap.com/en/eu/lexus+rx/521230/gyl15r-awxgkw/3/

My comment was a reply to this: and therefore I'd say the Mirai, or ES, would not be as fun - they aren't drivers cars, and haven't been designed to be so. As to the specific handling of the Mirai, I've not driven it to be able to compare to an ES but it certainly carries a lot more weight which is never a good thing for handling.

That's correct, which is why they don't work that well and the larger the image the more potential for a double image without a special windscreen.

Correct, the beams are flat (they don't project up on the left) and therefore no deflectors are needed.

The cooling system should be sealed so the fact that you have water vapour/steam coming from the vents suggest there is a leak in the heater matrix within the dashboard. I seem to recall that the coolant hoses going to it are easily accessible in the IS200 engine bay. I'd recommend disconnecting them and use a piece of pipe to join the two hoses together so you completely bypass the cooling system inside the cabin. Then run the engine and make sure you don't lose coolant and you don't overheat. If everything is ok then you know there is a problem with the heater matrix - which you then have the challenge of getting it out and replacing it.

The in-build OEM HUDs are actually quite sophisticated and need a special windscreen so I've wondered how we these 3rd party units work, and many get mixed reviews. Hence my question about what device but it seems hieronymous isn't actually using a projector device.

All that would do is have the effect that you have pressed the pedal down faster/further than you are currently doing - is that going to give you want you want, you can test that yourself by being more aggressive with the pedal.

Provided you press down on the black retaining clip they normally come off very easily. You may need to use a screwdriver to press down the clip.

What device are you using for a HUD?

It will only make the noise if the petrol engine isn't running. My neighbour's NX makes more noise in EV mode than it does with the engine running, which is annoying when he leaves for work early in the morning 😴

It does but it really doesn't seem to be as big of an issue as the specification makes out: The NX boot capacity isn't changed whether you have 2WD or AWD.

Having listened again and noticing you have an F Sport it could be the Active Sound Control which tries to simulate petrol engine noise - it kind of works at high speed / full throttle but gives a weird drone noise at idle and odd low speed sound. Certainly worth turning it off to see if it solves the problem. I've always hated it and always turn it off.