ColinBarber

Welcome Jud 🙂

Never had that problem but I suspect either the antenna itself or the amplifier has gone bad. The antenna should unscrew from the base and can be replaced with something generic, or official part 86309-48040. I'd try something generic from eBay/amazon for a few £££ just to help with the diagnosis. If the amplifier has gone bad (which is housed in the base of the antenna on the roof) then that is pain to replace as it is bolted in from under the roof lining. The official way to take off the roof lining is some 50+ step process and involved removing a lot of the internal trim. I believe some people have managed to pull down the lining without removing trim and getting enough room to get a spanner in there - I've never tried so don't know how difficult that is, or how easy it could be to damage the lining. Other possibilities are the cable that goes from the roof to the head unit, or the receiver in the head unit itself, but given the antenna/amplifier are outside and exposed to the elements that is where I would start.

One thing to try would be to use the alarm but turn off the ultrasonic interior sensors in case that part is causing excessive drain. Even with the alarm fully armed, once the vehicle's electronics have gone to sleep (typically up to 15 mins after closing/locking/arming the vehicle) you shouldn't see a power drain of more than 70 mA, and ideally less than 50 mA. I wonder if the battery inside the anti-theft siren has gone bad and therefore it is always being charged/consuming power. I would have thought that it would always be charged, and maybe it is when the ignition is on, but when the ignition is off perhaps it only charges when the alarm is armed. Sadly the wiring diagrams/system descriptions don't go into that level of detail to know - the only way to know would be to take measurements.

There isn't a passenger occupancy sensor for the airbag, it always fires if the driver's airbag is deployed. None of the airbags are fused - they are directly powered by the airbag sensor ECU. If you cut power to that then all airbags would be disabled.

Float

What side of the engine bay is your fuse box? That part seems to be for the UZS190 (i.e. GS430).

Measure what you take out and put back in the same amount.

Most of the parts are the same for LHD vehicles so you can import from the US (rockauto etc.) where there are lots of aftermarket parts. The 400h is the one to get though, as you say the cost of running a petrol one is high. Corrosion is another issue for this vehicle in the UK climate, the underbody rust protection isn't that great on these models.

You can get diagrams from 7zap - doesn't appear that is a part available on its own: https://lexus.7zap.com/en/eu/lexus+gs/3322a0/grs190r-betqhw/4/8401/846770l/#82210J Don't solder the link - I don't have the wiring diagram for your vehicle but that looks like the 120/150A alternator fusible link so you won't have proper protection if you solder it.

Yep, my IS300h and GS F intermittently worked but mainly didn't without changing anything. Seemed to work better on my wife's Prius (although not 100%), and now her UX seems to behave but I haven't driven it much to know how reliable it is - but I now put it in CarPlay anyway so don't have to rely on Toyota/Lexus' poor system.

Yeah Azure blue, or any of the sonic colours, is not an easy thing to match.

Full changes are here: https://www.gov.uk/government/consultations/review-of-the-highway-code-to-improve-road-safety-for-cyclists-pedestrians-and-horse-riders/summary-of-the-consultation-proposals-on-a-review-of-the-highway-code and previous updates here (it is updated quite often): https://www.gov.uk/guidance/the-highway-code/updates

I'd say the court is likely to side with the dealer if they describe the procedure and prove (beyond reasonable doubt) they performed the operation correctly. They cannot be held accountable for something failing that is completely unrelated to the task they have been contracted to perform. They probably won't want to go to court so may offer a gesture but they are the ones that are going to be out of pocket through no fault of their own.

Yes correct, the fluid should be level with the bottom of the filler hole or 5 mm below - any lower and you have a leak. Inspection mode = maintenance mode in this case. It is just to ensure the engine runs for 60 seconds without the hybrid system either not starting the engine, or shutting it down before the 60 seconds is finished.

Actually even later than that. I've a May 2020 price list and it is still under £ 40k then (with a sonic metallic paint). By Oct 2020 it's over £ 40k with basic paint.

There is a filler/level plug on the side of the transmission, which you need to check when the engine is cold but has run for a minute in inspection mode before waiting another minute for the fluid to settle.

Not anymore. 2WD brought in to cover up the price increases.

Rare for a Toyota wiring harness to cause problem unless it has physical damage which is most likely to be in the engine bay (from mice etc.). Check condition of the hardness and also check for water ingress into the engine ECU connectors.

This is the official chart - peak is 351 kW at 7,100 rpm. GS F with detail RC F smoothed out

I'd go with this one. A 1/10 of the mileage and the steering wheel in the correct place. https://www.classicdriver.com/en/car/lexus/lfa/2012/862582

Title edited.

You won't get a B2799 code if there is a problem with the key or the transponders - that would be properly diagnosed by the system and the corresponding code generated. B2799 is a fault condition - communication error between the ECU and the ID box.

I thought you had the premium pack which adds leather and ventilated seats?

It could be faulty wiring, or corrosion/dirt on the connectors if the ECU has been removed and the connectors left exposed for a period of time. There is a mechanism to register the immobiliser code device to the engine ECU but if that isn't correct then it shouldn't have been running at all previously.

Looks the same system as my wife's UX and I had the same problem when I had a quick look at it. I'll have another play with it but I'm not sure it is possible. The videos you have found aren't of help unfortunately - they are from a US vehicle which has different infotainment hardware/software.