ColinBarber

Lexus Link is only available for the MY20 ES models. It doesn't provide remote start (not available on any European Lexus hybrid). https://www.lexus.co.uk/owners/about-my-lexus/my-lexus-portal/lexus-link/#features-table For your vehicle: a) No b) n/a, see a) Lexus Enform in the US has had remote start capabilities for years - but they have a different system, and different laws. Sending a nav destination to the vehicle has been a function in Europe for years, but this doesn't need cellular connectivity. The servers hold the trip information and the vehicle uses bluetooth/wifi hotspot from your phone to connect when you start the vehicle. I wasn't aware the MY19 ES sends out it's location. I guess it is using the eCall system.

Most people unscrew from the top, put it in a plastic bag (to stop oil going everywhere) and then remove it.

Check the body seam above the tailgate strut. These seams come apart with age - use sealant to fix, something like this (cleaning with alcohol wipe first): https://www.screwfix.com/p/geocel-the-works-pro-sealant-and-adhesive-clear-290ml/250jj#_=p

As the engine is mounted across the vehicle, the rotational force would be in the lengthways direction of the vehicle. I would therefore expect there to be a vehicle movement if you were in P without the brakes engaged but not really if you have your foot on the brake in D. Worth making sure your engine mounts don't have any play in them which is contributing to this behaviour.

Definitely coming from engine bay and not interior? Worth spraying the suspension bushes with silicone spray to see if the noise changes - that may identify the culprit.

You get all sorts of weird errors when the 12v battery is flat, unfortunately the system hasn't been designed to properly detect this situation and give a meaningful message. Glad your dealer is replacing it, you shouldn't have any issues after that.

If the fault was related to the fuel pump/tank then I would expect you to also get lean errors for the other bank of the engine (P0171) as well. If it was fuel starvation you would normally feel the issue with the vehicle stuttering on acceleration around corners. I would expect your issue to be due to a fuel injector or O2 sensor on bank 2 of the engine.

That's a hydrogen fuel cell vehicle, John is talking about a hydrogen ICE vehicle.

No, it's an interference design engine where valves and pistons will meet if timing becomes out of sync.

You shouldn't even have 75 W bulbs in the standard headlights - they use 55 W bulbs as standard. You risk heat damage if you go too far. Low beams are protected by 15 A fuses and the high beams by 10 A fuses, and all four bulbs are protected by a 40 A fuse before the relay. You ideally need 20 A fuses (and higher rated wiring) for 100 W bulbs, so if you are talking about both high and low you need the main circuit/relay/fuse to be 80 A, not 40 A.

Downstream sensors are normally reliable (apart from the heater circuit). It's the upstream sensors that get lazy or fail. Nothing different about the IS300h, the upstream sensor will get lazy and slightly impact mpg from around 60k miles and fail between then and 100k miles (this is a generalisation).

Tim Vine's two Edinburgh fringe festival wins: I decided to sell my Hoover... well it was just collecting dust. I've just been on a once-in-a-lifetime holiday. I'll tell you what, never again. and his two runner up years: Crime in multi-storey car parks. That is wrong on so many different levels. Last night me and my girlfriend watched three DVDs back to back. Luckily I was the one facing the telly.

You don't need to replace the plugs, just gaskets - both use the same one, part code 90430-18008.

I think part of the problem is calling the procedure a transmission 'flush' - it isn't. An engine flush is adding chemicals to the engine oil to dissolve varnish and sludge for a few minutes before draining out all the old oil and replacing. A transmission flush typically is just replacing all the old ATF with fresh ATF of the same type - there are no chemical additives, but you need a external machine to force the fluid through the transmission because a drain/refill only replaced 50% of the fluid as the rest stays within the torque converter - you need to overcome gravity. It also pushes the fluid in the normal direction - not in reverse as you do with a heating system 'flush'. You wouldn't half drain your engine oil and refill. If you think your ATF is of poor quality you shouldn't half drain that.

Certainly a weird issue. I assume the vehicle hasn't been tampered with, e.g. someone tying to disable the alarm/break in via wiring in the engine bay? Ignition being on, possibly a problem with the power management ECU or a relay somehow is stuck on.

There are made in several different counties depending on model and market. In think the European V40s are made in Belgium for example.

You only have the choice of black, white or flare red with the F Sport

Well as soon as you drive away it isn't 100% anymore so you can always add something back in, but depending on the vehicle, regeneration braking may not be enabled or on reduced capacity when the battery is fully charged.

From what I can tell there is no 310 mm option. Just 290 mm, either vented or solid. At the age of your vehicle 310 mm was only used outside of Europe on some of the non hybrid models, specifically the IS350. At the late 2015 facelift the 310 mm was standard on all non 300h models, even in Europe.

The fuel computer never reads under 🙂 36 litres = 7.919 imperial gallons 32.8 mpg which is very respectable and pretty close to the computer's reading, normally it overstates by more than that.

The red looks similar to the red in my GS F - the colour does vary depending on the light which is why you see a variation in photos. e.g. the passenger seat looks darker than the driver seat due to lighting in this photo. The actual colour is closer to the driver seat, i.e. bright red.

Normal Lithium Ion batteries do not like to be stored at 100%. It causes degradation so if you can conveniently get away with only going to 80% it will help considerably in limiting battery ageing, saving 100% charges for the times when you really need the extra range. That's easier to do on a full BEV where you have much more range, whereas on a low range PHEV that 20% loss may be too much depending on your commute - in that case you could delay charging so it is at 100% as you need to leave for work, not putting it on charge as you get home and it sitting at 100% overnight.

I don't know how good the BMS on the Outlander is, but at least the Lexus has a basic active, and liquid based, cooling system to avoid the batteries overheating - which is one source of degradation. The system should also actively managed low capacity to avoid damage that way. Lexus provides a warranty for three years if the battery goes below 80%. What isn't clear is whether the 80% figure carries over to the 8 year hybrid battery warranty/10 year Relax warranty or it just covers a complete failure.

If your brakes, and your leg, can cause the wheels to lock up at speed then you have overcome the maximum frictional forces of the tyres - having bigger brakes that can generate more force isn't going to make any difference because you have already generated the maximum needed. Now, if you want harder braking power for less leg input then upgrading to larger brakes can help, as can changing the pads for different friction material or upping the brake booster assistance - but this doesn't improve your stopping distance, just the effort required by your leg in pressing down the pedal. Larger brakes often perform worse when cold as there is more mass to get up to optimum operating temperature - so that initial cold bite isn't as good. If you track, tow or often come down very steep and long mountains then bigger brakes help because they dissipate heat better, avoiding brake fade.

What's the tax situation? If the 350h's higher CO2 figure makes the yearly running costs high then that will have an affect on the residuals.