ColinBarber

Yes I understand that but the Lexus isn't just a rebadged BZ, they are using different motor configurations to give it more performance and they could possibly improve charging performance too - we have to wait until Lexus release more details (at which point we probably will be disappointed).

The only Lexus that has cooled seats is the LS (with certain options depending on age). You have ventilated seats, so to get the best benefit you should put your AC on and direct it to your feet so the cold air goes under the seat where the fans draw it up.

The design is compromised so there isn't as much air at the seat back compared to the seat base and then once you sit in it your back blocks all the air so you get very little benefit.

Charging speed details haven't been released yet. Given the delay it is expected to be better than its Toyota sister but granted it is unlikely to match the EV6.

If the sparky knowns that a new outdoor socket is for EV charging (whether 3-pin, commando etc) then technically he has to install all the safety equipment as with a full charger so it may not be as cheap as you think.

I'm sure, but not enough to justify legislation and even then it won't guarantee it fixes the issue. 99% of drivers on the road are qualified to drive - that doesn't eliminate drivers being at fault in accidents.

Not my view, just my opinion on Lexus' view. Otherwise they would have spent the money on R&D and made the vehicle more expensive by included the capability of rapid charging on the NX 450h+.

Yes, you are limited to AC 'destination' chargers. e.g. ones installed at home, hotels or your place of work etc. rather than rapid chargers. As you have found out, Tesco also provide some AC chargers but they aren't that useful for full EV owners as you aren't there long enough to make a significant difference to your charge level so I don't expect to see the amount of these to increase in huge numbers. Given the battery is quite small, and you have a petrol engine to fall back on, there isn't really a need for rapid charging which is why Lexus avoids the expense of providing that functionality.

When you get to the correct torque the tightening wheel will slip, making a loud click - similar to how the old Toyota/Lexus petrol caps once worked rather than the new ones that click and then spring back. The tightening wheel is small so you have to use quite a lot of force to tighten it enough. For the cover make sure the bottom is pressed down and in as far as it will go before closing at the top. Again you may need more force that you expect on the key if it isn't quite aligned - if you are having problems with just one lock then make sure it is correctly inserted into the cover.

You're wrong, it's the best colour 😉

It's because there is no qualification to take, therefore how can you be qualified? You can attend manufacturer courses and pass their tests but that isn't a recognised qualification, but you can state you are competent. Regulation without cause isn't desirable. Do you want servicing and repair work to cost even more than it does today because mechanics have additional costs associated with being tested, and paying subs to keep an industry body afloat? I've not read any reports of there being injuries to motorists as a result of poorly repaired hybrid vehicles, and I'm sure there aren't enough occurrences to justify it for all ICE vehicles either.

I have issue with the word 'qualified'. There is no standards body or law stating you must be qualified to work on a hybrid vehicle, unlike being gas safe registered for example.

It should be 88460-48061 https://lexuspartsdirect.co.uk/product/lexus-rx-phase-2-air-conditioning-condenser/

You have to be competent to work on a hybrid, in the same way as you have to be competent to work on a conventional petrol car - plenty of ways to injury yourself, the vehicle or others if you don't know what you are doing. For all routine servicing on a hybrid you don't go near the actual hybrid high voltage components.

You could struggle to fit a jack and wheel brace in a UX boot on your first attempt, let alone get a wheel in there 🤣

That's better. Shame they don't give you a 32A cable as standard but I think they are just using the same part that comes with the Prius plug-in which is limited to 16A. Certainly possible you were derated because of the other points in use, and you are always going to see slight variations just from the supply voltage fluctuating at different times of the day and load (e.g. 220 to 240 VAC which mean the max you could get varies between 6.3 and 6.9 kW, with the 6.6 kW rating at a nominal 230 VAC). Next you can get into the discussion about how much of that 5.9 kWh energy you were charged for actually makes it into the battery as you have charging losses at the charging point, cable, and the vehicle's AC to DC charger. 😧

No need for domestic 3 PH. 32 Amp 7 kW on a single phase is more than fine for overnight charging, just don’t use a 16 Amp charge cable 🙂. But a 16 Amp cable is probably fine at Tesco because their charge point will be connected to a 3 PH supply. The above is for a generic EV. The 300e has a severely compromised on-board AC charger where is cannot make proper use of a 3 PH supply 😞.

You shouldn't be running a 20A cable at a sustained 20A. The plug has a resistor in it which tells the vehicle's in-built charger to limit current via the signal conductor - that cable is a 16A charging cable. If you are getting more than 3.7 kW through it then it will be connected to a 3-phase supply not a single phase.

That should do the trick. The press release material for the UX300e states: When using the charging cable that comes with the vehicle, charging will be at about 1.7kW

Your vehicle comes with roadside assistance - just let them deal with a flat tyre if you are unlucky enough to get one.

I believe Lexus also use Dunlop runflat tyres which are quieter. Personally I think I will move to normal tyres and a can of goo when my wife's tyres need replacing.

4 but you should only change the ones that are faulty - possibly the two upstream sensors together as they could fail within a short time frame of each other. What error code(s) do you have, did the garage tell you?

Isn't there a back box on each side right at the back of the exhaust?

They are different. Probably just lobe profile but without a remap of engine and VVTi it isn't going to run correctly.

I wouldn't be too sure, maybe not an emissions issue but a noise one: https://www.gov.uk/noise-pollution-road-train-plane I doubt the police would take action if you explain it has just happened and you are recovering the vehicle though.