ColinBarber

You can do it yourself if you have level ground and something you can aim your lights against. The headlight as a whole is adjusted (both dipped and high beams together): https://www.national.co.uk/blog/how-to-align-your-car-headlights-ahead-of-an-mot-check

Turn the cabin heat up. The only way it can heat it is via the waste heat output of the engine. If the engine still shuts down then the coolant is at temperature and therefore the heater output won’t change whether the engine is running or not (until it cools and the engine starts again).

They might be adjusted incorrectly too low. Get your local garage/dealer to check and adjust them.

Being warned that the simulated engine braking won’t be as strong as normal is worth warning the driver about. But it should just be once that the driver can acknowledge and clear, or maybe just a yellow warning symbol that comes up whist regen braking is impacted.

It could be an MOT failure if detected.

Yes, HID is only for dipped. High beam uses a conventional halogen bulb.

If you google this issue you will find references to head gasket failures, but most of these are in the US. It's rare to have this issue in the UK - most people here that have had rough or noise running find a blocked EGR - that's where I would start.

This is incorrect. The method suggested by OP (by turning on the ignition and not entering Ready mode) will give you an accurate reading of the battery voltage.

Sadly having a steering lock does not stop people attempting to steal the vehicle and doing damage 😢

Brake fluid is changed every 2 years/20k miles on a major service - personally I wouldn't top up on the minor service between if it was more than half way between min and max, you are arguably doing more harm than good by opening up the reservoir and allowing dirt and moisture in. Was the service in May a minor or major service? Coolant looks low, although I have noticed that some Lexus vehicles will expel coolant from the reservoir down to near the min. level. Certainly worth keeping an eye on it to see if the level goes down further. Sadly the 100 point check is little more than a quick visual check and if everything is above the min. level it won't get touched.

Correct and yes.

Your voltages look a little suspect (the first one where it wasn't as high as 14.4 v when presumably it was in Ready mode) - possibly reading lower than reality so would be good to double check with a volt meter if you have one. The fact that the vehicle started isn't really the problem in question. If 11.4 v is accurate then your battery went down to 20% state of charge - that level of discharge has damaged it slightly (lead acid batteries don't like going below 50% SoC), so you now have less capacity. Keep repeating that and it will take a shorter and shorter time to drop to a voltage level where the vehicle won't be able to start.

Yes. The DC-DC converter is supplying 14.4 v to power all low voltage systems and charging the 12 v battery.

It's discrimination against a group of people, unless you have proof that every single member of that group is guilty of what you suggest.

People using CAN bus attacks aren't opportunist thieves, so will likely come with battery operated angle grinders. Maybe you get lucky and they move on to an easier target but anything other than a full circular lock isn't going to stop them as they would just cut the steering wheel. There are also videos online that show Lexus vehicles being stolen where a disk lock is cut through in seconds.

That's correct. The key fob would need to be stationary for a few minutes before it goes to sleep. The scenario you suggest is possible but unlikely, unless you have a vehicle with UWB keys (e.g. an NX supplied mid 2023 onwards) when that becomes impossible. With conventional keys the vehicle assumes your proximity by signal strength (which is defeated by a relay attack), with UWB the vehicle knows proximity because it precisely measures time of flight - if the signal is relayed the system knows the key isn't within a short distance of the vehicle and won't unlock.

What is the error code(s)?

Look on the VIN plate (and possibly the V5 too): FWD - AYZ10 AWD - AYZ15 Energy monitor will show power to/from the rear wheels if it is AWD. Look underneath at the rear for driveshafts going to the rear wheels and a motor/differential assembly.

The filter is a ripoff price from Lexus dealers: https://lexuspartsdirect.co.uk/product/lexus-gs-phase-4-gearbox-oil-strainer/ vs importing it: https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/3533030110

Joe, who was trained by Tony, now works here in Leighton Buzzard: https://carservicerepairs.com

The high voltage battery is isolated when the vehicle is switched off for safety as the voltage is dangerous. Having the DC/DC converter (a simple transformer cannot be used as that only works for AC supplies) capable of generating 120+ Amps needed when the car is being driven and efficiently being able to just supply 50 mA when the vehicle is asleep is difficult. You really don't want the hybrid battery to go flat - there is a whole industry around getting you going again if your 12 v battery goes flat. If your traction battery goes flat then it is a flatbed to Lexus to charge it up again.

I'd say the post in general is a good warning - there are a lot of fake parts being sold on eBay. However, I don't believe Linas has any experience with the specific seller in question and therefore people should disregard this comment. Please remember that Opinions, advice and all other information expressed by participants in discussions are those of the author. Members who rely on such information do so at their own risk. There are equally a lot of genuine sellers on eBay, including Toyota UK themselves. Personally I've used e-hybrid a number of times and always received genuine parts.

The Toyota and Lexus batteries are flooded, so 12.6 v is fully charged. Ideally he should have put the load on for 20 seconds on all three just to remove any plate surface charge before measuring the voltage to get a more accurate reading. As you conclude, all three show a similar loss and differences are minimal (and your own battery may perform slightly better or worse just because of manufacturing tolerances). Anyone thinking of 'upgrading' to the Varta battery is going to be disappointed - there isn't a big enough difference to make any meaningful difference to how long your vehicle will last unattended.

There wasn't a single date when they changed over to sleeping key fobs, it is model dependent, but it is around 2022/23. It took them longer than other marquees to make the change.

I'm not sure there is physical space for anything meaningfully larger in capacity that could fit.