Monocle

As you can see, I learned that the hard way!

Yeah, I honestly don't feel it has let me down. I like working on it too so that helps. To be honest, I do love the car but it's over 7 years since I bought it so I'm itching to upgrade. Looking at the GS450H 4th gen at the moment (F Sport, Black on Black - only one available currently) - finances dictate that it could be another few months before I can afford it though!

I put this together from all the scrap pieces of paper that I had written on and thrown in the service manual. Just throught I'd share - some may be interested. Next car I get, I'll include tyres and others like bulbs, etc. Also, I'll track costs too.

If it is blocked, you will have DPF PM Block showing "Blocked". But you would know this already as check VSC, engine light, etc. would be lit up on the dash. If you want to check if it is on its way to being blocked, bring up the revs over 2,500 at least (driving or stationary) and watch the differential pressure. Mine showed about 10-12 kPa (about 1.4-1.7 psi) when blocked. It should be less than 2kPa (0.3 psi) under normal operation (from what I have heard). No harm to run the forced regen anyway.

OK, I'm with you now on the 2k. Probably should have looked it up first! I do have a compressor but it only puts out about 4.5cfm. Not sure investing in a gun is worth it anyway as I don't have anywhere indoors to spray. I'll definitely follow your recommendations on the process for the next one. A question on corrosion, if I am sanding back to bare metal, ensuring all of the corrosion is removed, why would you think it would return without acid treatment? Thanks again for all the advice.

That's great advice, thanks - wasn't aware of any of that! Yes, I'm using all aerosols. Will purchase the high build 2k for the last two. I'm actually a step further than DA discs. I was using a 4.5inch angle grinder. Way too powerful to have control. The problem is that the corrosion is heartbreaking and so much effort by hand. The automation cuts the workload by 90% but at a price. Next time I'll be using a wire brush attachment on a drill to get as much of the corrosion down. Then I'll use ascending 120, 240, 320 grits. Apply the primer, wet sand with 600 grit then prime again. Colour coat then clear. I'd be delighted if you could recommend another method to cut through the corrosion!!!

Excellent write up Lee! Well done, it looks smashing. Looking forward to more in this thread into the future Leaning toward a GS myself. Was considering 4th generation but seeing this is making me think!

The proejct got delayed a bit but managed to get the second wheel completed this weekend. Left Rear this time. If I was to give the first effort a 5 out of 10, I'd give this a 6. I'm not being over-critical just that I think I'll never get it perfect the way I'm doing it. Hand sanding will never be as good as the acid bath! Also, spraying outside if certainly not ideal! I learned a lot from the first effort - like using a 240 grit flap disc instead of 120 grit. However, it was still way too aggressive. Next time I'll be doing everything by hand, bar a little initial go with the wire brush drill attachment. The final product - the white dots are bits of fluff.

Any chance they ran a forced regen during your service? They did during mine when I sent in with P2002 fault.

I've just been through this whole process. Yeah, the problem is the X Horse cable doesn't initally work with 64-bit. I reverted back to digging out an old Vista 32-bit laptop and it worked fine. I am tempted to try to install on Win 10 using these instructions but haven't got to it yet. http://obd365.blogrip.com/2016/10/21/install-toyota-techstream-10-20-030-on-win10x-64bit/ Hope it helps!

Thanks Robb. I think it may have regenerated when I was driving and running the program. I'll be trying again soon no doubt!

I have now driven about 500 miles since I (think I) carried out the forced regen. Not a hiccup so I'm delighted. Will probably run it every couple of months but would still love to get to the bottom of how the program runs the regen cycle. Lexus wanted €300 to do it for me.

Well I'll let you know how I get on! I have a 400 mile journey tomorrow - hopefully I'll make it!

Thanks Ian - I did read that earlier but couldn't get the exact answer I need. It seems they may have had similar issues but would really like to know how it should be run properly. I'm useless when it comes to IT! Thanks again for the reply.

So I have the Techstream software up and running. I mainly want to use it to run forced regens at regular intervals on IS220D. The usual P2002 fault was up so I managed to clear that with Techstream. However, when I went to run the DPF regen, I ran into problems. I can select it ok and it says it is in "ON" mode but nothing happened. There was some mention of initial conditions like engine temp which were all within stated ranges. But I expected the computer to take over and start bringing the engine through different rev cycles. Literally nothing happened. It stayed idling for over an hour! The mode switched to "OFF" eventually and then the fault reappeared. Has anyone run this before and could advise? I also tried it while driving and it seems to help as the fault code didn't come back but the differential pressure still isn't great. But it says that the egnine must be idling and in neutral. Not sure what is or should be happening to be honest. Thanks in advance.

Rob, in my experience, the clogging of the DPF doesn't always immediately show an engine fault but the power loss is instant. It can "chug" a little first. If you keep driving, it will. So your loss of power is most likely the DPF from what you describe. You are probably on the right track. Have you already bought a new one? Could you get the existing one reconditioned? Seems like you have skipped a few steps in the process and gone out and bought a new one! Hopefully it solves your problem anyway. Good luck!

Right, this might be it... It is called the Vacuum Transmitting Hose. It is marked in red in the diagram below. It connects into the bottom of the inlet manifold. The next diagram shows where it connects into. It points vertically downwards and is held on with a pincer clip.

I'll check this for you. Can you get any more photos like where it is coming from exactly?

I'm in Ireland too. So if you are looking at a 220D you will save €630 on road tax per annum. At 15,000 miles yearly and with a difference of €0.12 per litre you will save €650 per annum (32mpg for the 250 and 38mpg for the 220). That's a total of €1280 yearly. There is a threat of a €0.08/l increase in the next budget on diesel only. The transport industry will struggle to object due to the growth in industry over the past three years - just my opinion! Excluding service and wear parts (tyres & brakes), I have spent about €600 a year since I passed about 100,000 miles. And I do a lot of the work myself - EGR, caliper pins, inlet manifold, etc. And potentially I have a €700 bill to replace the DPF. I'm not saying to get one or the other, just some figures to keep in mind.

Thanks John - that's good to know, I didn't realise this was the case with soot/ash. I'll run the regen anyway and see how long I get out of it. Otherwise I'll buy a new one. Thanks Lee - yeah, it's mostly motorway or primary roads at 60mph. Every fuel tank I run at 3,000rpm for about ten minutes. Thought that would help but doesn't seem to be the case! I gave up on sixth gear after the last forced regen around 5,000 miles ago. I think as John said above, 155k miles might just be the tipping point for a new one.

Hi Brian, Congrats on the purchase! I am one of the more delusional folk on this forum that loves his 220D! Mine is older than yours and has significantly higher mileage. Black on black as well. I won't go on about the issues with the car as the forum regularly throws them up so keep an eye out every few days. Don't be afraid to ask anything as the lads on here are great and have been a huge help to me. Learn to clean the EGR and re-grease the brake pins every six months or so based on your mileage. They are both easy jobs. Just enjoy the car!

As I have said on here recently, I have been having DPF clogging issues. Lexus want €300 to run a regen so I went and bought the software to run myself. Will be doing so at the end of this week when it arrives. Car is unfortunately parked up until then. I am considering getting a new DPF (spurious - €700) at this stage. But will this actually solve the problem (at least for a good 40,000 miles or more) or is the engine just spewing out more carbon as it ages and a new DPF will clog in no time? Current mileage is 155,000 miles. Would welcome some opinions on this. Thanks.

Thanks Pauly. I'll have to hunt down a mate with XP so!

Also, I have an old laptop with Windows Vista which the disc is not compatible with. It's the only laptop with a CD drive available to me. Do you think I could just copy the data from the CD onto a memory stick and use it on a new laptop that has Windows 10? Sorry if these are stupid questions!

Think I cursed myself. Check VSC up on the dash today due to blocked DPF again. Only got about 6,000 since forced regeneration. Have to invest in Techstream now I think. I tried the link above but they don't post to Ireland. Could ssomeone let me know if this link below is the one I need. I'm really not great on the IT side of things. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281433277273