The-Acre

Hi Pete, Welcome to the LOC!

Silly boy! Anyway, Lanarkshire is not really on the way to the New Forest!!

I'll phone in the morning to ask about the cam belt, if it's been done I may just take a look, I'll be passing anyway. I'm in the position of wondering whether to put some money into mine, or go for a facelift model (which isn't actually that different) My wife thinks it's an addiction!

It just happens that I'll be going past Portsmouth tomorrow. Do you think this is a good price? I'm worried that if I take a look I may be smitten! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2005-Lexus-LS-430-4-3-4dr-/321778426907?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item4aeb7d241b

As far as I know, if it is possible to buy the cooler part alone, it would only be a main dealer part. For that reason it would make sense to buy the whole thing, which would probably work out cheaper anyway. If there's corrosion at the bottom, it surely follows that the top isn't far behind. A complete radiator can be bought for £85 upwards.

Well done that man, I'm off to buy the hat tomorrow, you won't see me taking it off to you as I'll be in the New Forrest, so you'll just have to imagine it! (and no, I won't video it!)

Phoned them today, £699 including delivery for the four struts, and they're made in the UK. The guy said they've sold a fair few to LS430 owners. They make to order which takes around 10 days.

I've only just seen this reply, thanks for the info, it's something I'm definitely considering. Have you got the link for the US supplier, and am I right in saying the rear seat removal was the longest job?

Did you loose the radiator coolant as well?

Well done, even if you had paid the asking price I think it looks a good buy. I must admit, although I said I wouldn't go back to an LS400, I was very tempted, especially as it wasn't that far from me. Keep us posted on how it works out, we're always interested.

........ Being picky, the goal is really transmission oil temperature maintenance, so surrounding transmission oil pipes with rad temperature liquid is a good thing. It could be said that keeping the oil temperature low is not that good an idea. A UK winter, driving in below zero temperatures plus wind chill; but don't ask me what the alternative is for us hapless owners. Time to come clean Gents, this was my car. So do you know what actually caused the failure, was it corrosion?

I can't wait to find out because EVERY button I press makes a beep, very annoying!

Brian Hi and thanks for this, really appreciate it. I slept on it and had another look. The reason I over did the bolt as I had not factored it going over a small cover too...oh dear. From a safety point of view the main work is done by x4 14mm bolts/nuts. I might be able to use a 12mm trim clip to offer a firmer fit to that part of the plastic cover. I will leave as is. So it wasn't the sealant or gasket remanants after all. This morning I fitted the rear under tray, took out the battery for charging as it was flat. And fitted and torqued the fan bracket. I'm waiting on the drive belt tensioner and driver belt idler pulley due soon I hope. Then I can complete the job. All good fun. :winky: We've all gone out to buy hats so we can take them off to you! we want see a video of the car running first LOL Good point, I'll put it back in the hat box until we see it running, can't wait, I think I may look good in a panama!

Brian Hi and thanks for this, really appreciate it. I slept on it and had another look. The reason I over did the bolt as I had not factored it going over a small cover too...oh dear. From a safety point of view the main work is done by x4 14mm bolts/nuts. I might be able to use a 12mm trim clip to offer a firmer fit to that part of the plastic cover. I will leave as is. So it wasn't the sealant or gasket remanants after all. This morning I fitted the rear under tray, took out the battery for charging as it was flat. And fitted and torqued the fan bracket. I'm waiting on the drive belt tensioner and driver belt idler pulley due soon I hope. Then I can complete the job. All good fun. :winky: We've all gone out to buy hats so we can take them off to you!

The belt seems fine. What I don't understand is the way it seems OK after it's been driven fast, even when I go back to town driving. Revving the engine doesn't do it, it seems to be the airflow at speed. Sounds daft, but its almost as if it clears something with air rushing through it, but that surely can't be the case. Like I said, a strange one.

Is it worth trying a breakers for a set of wheels? A guy where I work charges £45 each for a refurb, there must be someone near you that'll do them for a similar price, although I don't know how much a breaker would charge.

Thanks, Colin, All the above are OK, in fact I did start to notice this happening even before I fitted the cooler.

You may want to check your spelling Mike, unless Brendan has had the op! Many thanks Phil I have turned him back into a man. I am quicker and cheaper than anyone in Harley Street. Many happy clients. Mike. You truly are a wizard with that scalpel, impressive! Going back to wheels, I agree with having the originals removed and cleaned. As much as I like the look of a more modern set, the originals are designed to do the job efficiently, and have surely gone through rigorous testing, and the LS430 wheels don't look bad anyway.

I asked about new wheels when I had my tyres fitted but they seem quite limited due to the calipers. They did show me some nice 17" ones at about £600. it seems to be about the going price. While we're at it, how about an update and some more info re your suspension conversion?

You may want to check your spelling Mike, unless Brendan has had the op!

I wonder if anyone can offer advice on this. Just lately my AC hasn't been blowing as cold as it should until I put my foot down fairly hard. I had it vacuum checked and re-gassed last week, the guy pointed out that it takes about 300 grams more gas because it has the rear AC, so that was encouraging that he checked the info properly. The vacuum test was OK but it still didn't blow colder until I accelerated hard. This morning again I put the AC on when I went out but it just blew warm-ish. When I got to the open road I floored it and the AC blew ice cold and stayed that way, even when I got back in town. The compressor clutch always engages straight away, and it's just had a new pollen filter so the air flow should be OK, any ideas? Thanks

In all honesty I think that's the best thing to do. As I said, it also reduces the risk of a future radiator leak. In hindsight I probably should have done that myself, in fact I may still do it at some point should I keep the car for a while, especially as my radiator is 13 years old.

Here you go, just the job, masses of street cred as well!! Maybe he'll need a trailer though....

But the problem is still internal, regardless of whether it's corrosion or joint failure. I looked into taking the bottom of the radiator apart but couldn't find any info at all. With the aftermarket cooler it gets up to temperature very quickly, perhaps even quicker than if it was running through a cold radiator at start up. It's certainly not being excessively cooled when driving, it still feels hot when I check. Because of where it's placed it should also be cooled enough from the left side fan at standstill. I always put it in neutral at lights etc, it gets hotter if it's in drive with the brakes applied.

If it is written off you can buy it back for a small amount and then get the work done.