The-Acre

Good point! It's engineered that way for a purpose.

The hoses are 10mm and you can mount a cooler directly in front of the AC condenser, there's loads of room and a good solid base for it, it doesn't need rubber mounting. The cooler in the radiator is very small, about 70mm high and a tad shorter than the radiator. The defunct fittings don't need plugging but it's probably good practice. All you need to do it get some decent hose to make the connections. My local motor factor suggested fuel hose which is what I used. On my current car I just replaced the radiator, much easier and reduces the risk of radiator failure. Personally I wouldn't bother with a cooler, just buy a new radiator and be done with it, it should last many years. Fill with fresh Toyota coolant, job done, takes less than an hour and can all be done from the top.

I've got no idea what "president" means as it has everything an LS430 should have, in fact everything was standard. I can't help feeling a little suspicious about a car that's done 500 miles in two years but the owner is sorry to see it go.

Which really makes you wonder just how the price for genuine parts is justified. I took my 11 year old Volvo door card off recently to repair a speaker and I noticed the window motor is Chinese, the same for my ex 2003 Vauxhall. I'm glad it's working for you, and good info for others.

I changed mine when I bought my Celsior and found a very dead but interesting Japanese bug in it, plus various amounts of dry vegetation!

Thanks Roger, although I'm not sure if it was being brave or stupid! There's some great info out there which made it possible, and I'm very grateful to people who take the time to make videos etc. I guess like anything, having done it, it wouldn't seem so daunting next time, although I don't plan on there being a next time!

If you changed your radiator the unions will be fine as they come complete with new ones. I only mention the hoses as one of mine had a bad split/cut but it may not be a common thing at all, I've not heard of any problems. Speaking of build, I've been really impressed (and frustrated) with the way mine is built as I've been working on it.

Yes, the seat has to come out to access the top mounts. It's heavy because of all the electrical functions. The grey box at the bottom is the massaging unit.

Air shocks really can't be repaired, and the top does seem to be the area where the RX generally leak from. It's either a new part, used parts or coilovers I'm afraid.

I finished doing the rears today and all I can say to anyone thinking of doing it forget it if you don't have loads of patience! It's definitely not a job for the faint hearted. Maybe it's because I tackled all four that I feel that way. Anyway, it's riding nicely, no noticeable difference from the original setup. One knuckle missing so could be worse!

True, but in my opinion, and experience there's no substitute for doing it properly.

Main dealer would be the best but most expensive option. There are some on eBay but you have to get the one with the nozzle at the end to connect to the expansion tank, unless you have a Celsior which has a different setup. It's an easy DIY job and not a bad idea to replace the rubber transmission hoses at the same time. Ask Lexus Spares who post here for a quote. Also a good time to fill with fresh coolant.

I've only done a short drive and it was raining a lot, so hard to tell at this stage, it certainly felt good. I'll try to get the rears done tomorrow and let you know how it feels after a longer run.

Well today proved me wrong. 2.5 hours just to disconnect the air hose! There's literally 1.5" to get your fingers in and all it is is a plastic clip that I struggled and struggled with. The rest was straightforward in-between downpours. The fronts are done now and the knock has gone! If the weather is reasonable tomorrow I'll attack the rears, the seat is already out.

Thank you. I resisted driving it until the other side is done. It was very satisfying to see the car rise to its correct level! Interesting to see the original ones with the top mating metal to metal whereas the new ones have a fairly hefty rubber mount.

I second that, make it a priority, it's an easy job.

Also you can see the lower strut bush looking very tired.

I had a bit of time this morning before a work appointment so I made a start and did the first front strut. About two hours but I think the next one will be much quicker. Some say it's not necessary but I took the upper control arm joint apart as it made things much easier. Also replaced the drop link.

All a matter of taste but I like the interior colour.

I reckon they say "corrosion" because they can't, in most cases, find anything else of note!😁

Mine is apparently not just a barge but a slab sided one!

My recent experience with Rockauto was very good, I would contact them to ask what they have and ask about quality. If you order from them I wouldn't choose post shipping as Parcelforce like to add charges, best to choose FedEx global economy.

I am surprised it didn't sell at the original price, a lovely looking motor, although most do look good in photos.

To be honest the new shocks in their boxes look more attractive than many hatchbacks! A bit frustrating that I can't fit them for a few days.

Just to give an example of what I mean. I've just replaced the rear shocks on my wife's Vauxhall, total cost £50. The rear ones for an LS with air are the price of her car's value. To own such a luxury limo will undoubtedly incur big expense in time. My own LS is about to have all four shocks replaced, again for the price of a used hatchback. So all I'm saying is you can't really buy such a car and use every penny of your budget and not at least consider the potential very high cost of maintenance, especially when there's the hybrid system to consider.