The-Acre

I think if you want a luxury car on the cheap you have to expect big bills at times.

The new struts came inflated, but not fully. The instructions say that they must contain some air when delivered so you have to feel the "air spring" before installation to make sure there's resistance, plus it's a visual thing. It took about 15 seconds to fully inflate.

The ride is just the same as the original set up, maybe slightly better. Arnott air struts seem to have generally good reviews. Apparently they make refurbished units or brand new, so I went for new.

So how was the Crown?

Was this wobble there before the new discs were fitted or after?

So was that the white one? I think that has conventional suspension and for some strange reason I was momentarily tempted until someone talked me out of it!

Now there's a thought!😇

I've seen this suspension advisory on various LS430's, I even had it on my first one but never had anything done about it. On lots of cars the steering rack inner joint is replaceable but I don't know about the LS, hopefully someone will enlighten you. If you get a chance to test drive it make sure it doesn't pull badly to the left, I'm not sure what causes it but it's not too uncommon. And I believe you can buy just the lower bush.

Sorry, I meant I saw it on eBay! I've had two pre facelift LS430's, my last one being the dark red one which I should have kept really. Personally I can't tell any difference just from driving, maybe it slightly improves fuel consumption having another gear but it's negligible. The facelift has a sharper looking front but essentially it's the same car. My last one had complete main dealer history which I guess is why it was so sound in all areas.

I looked at that one, same colour as my last one, it looks superb when it has a good buffing! Probably one of the very best colours.

And the bit that they say is damaged with the split in it is meant to be there, it's the way they're made!

You're right of course, any luxury car can be like playing Russia roulette, often we dodge the bullet but when it hits it hurts!

Some people really try it on don't they? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LEXUS-LS430-SUSPENSION-LEG-SHOCK-ABSORBER-LEFT-REAR/163876281570?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3Deb0a63fcf3204633bbf986d18d87ff53%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D142562806762%26itm%3D163876281570%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3Ad007fe78-0c90-11ea-9eab-74dbd180e4e2|parentrq%3A8f53e0c516e0a688b863d11cffea9e2c|iid%3A1

Now there's a man who knows how to make a snap decision!

Iv'e just replaced the drop links on my Celsior and I can't image the process is any different. When you remove the wheel the nuts on the links can be loosened, there may be an allen socket on the end to prevent the ball joint turning as you loosen them, or they could have flat sides for a spanner. When you loosen the nuts you then have to use a jack to raise the lower control arm until there's no pressure on the link, then simply remove it.

A fault code won't always throw up an EML, you need to get a proper diagnostic done.

You really do need to get a diagnostic done, if that throws up any codes you've got something to go on, otherwise it's all guesswork. If you've got the one piece headlight you have a MK4 if not it's a MK3.

If yours is a 97 then it's a third generation, possible a fourth.

I've not changed the cts on an LS but it's somewhere on top of the engine. I'm sure a Google search will find it.

Suspension corrosion is something that was discussed on this forum very recently and it seems that the general consensus is don't worry about it.

Vehicle stability control. I can't remember my LS400 but on the 430 you can disable it. It helps to stop the rear wheels spinning and can prevent skids and loosing control.

It only rises about an inch. When traveling at speed it automatically lowers, when you come to a roundabout etc you can often hear the compressor kick in to raise it again. I've never bothered with the height button, or the sport one for that matter.

Maybe get a diagnostic test to see if it shows any codes. Temperature coolant sensor can also give the problems you've described, an inexpensive part.

Good point! It's engineered that way for a purpose.

The hoses are 10mm and you can mount a cooler directly in front of the AC condenser, there's loads of room and a good solid base for it, it doesn't need rubber mounting. The cooler in the radiator is very small, about 70mm high and a tad shorter than the radiator. The defunct fittings don't need plugging but it's probably good practice. All you need to do it get some decent hose to make the connections. My local motor factor suggested fuel hose which is what I used. On my current car I just replaced the radiator, much easier and reduces the risk of radiator failure. Personally I wouldn't bother with a cooler, just buy a new radiator and be done with it, it should last many years. Fill with fresh Toyota coolant, job done, takes less than an hour and can all be done from the top.