The-Acre

Delicious

Projectile.

Apparently the connections to the camera can become poor. It happened on a friend's IS250c but a good whack in the camera area sorted it! Not permanent but it seems to be where the problem is.

Plimsol

Brains

I decided to have the 4 wheel alignment done again by a much better company, one which all the dealers recommend and it was slightly out, but it hasn't made any difference. So for the sake of £300 including taxes and shipping I've just ordered from Rockauto both lower control arms and both lower ball joints. This is the area that I feel the problem is. So I'll have two new ball joints and four new bushes. For what they cost it's worth a try. That means I'll have replaced the majority of parts bar inner and outer tie rods and upper control arms. They'll be next if necessary. I'm determined to get the steering to feel the way it should!

Wow, be thankful you weren't on a motorway!

Breakfast

Mister

Puffed

Garbage

Wine

Heart

Strife

I don't think I would bother with used parts, it's not really worth the risk for the amount of work involved. If I was doing it again I would definitely try Strutmaster, if they are using (as they claim) cold wound springs and KYB dampers it has to be better than a poor quality adjustable coilover.

Tank

Flap

Cheshire

I think what your planning is fine. I had the cambelt replaced on my V70 last week, a simple job but I haven't got a powerful impact wrench for the crank pulley so I had someone do it for me.

The shocks are the same regardless of facelift or pre-facelift so I don't understand why the price would be different. I replaced all of mine with Arnott air shocks from the US which cost me £2,400 with shipping. If I was replacing with conventional springs I would buy Strutmaster kits also from the US, about £1,400 delivered to the UK. The coilovers from eBay etc, especially adjustable onrs are something I would avoid. Strutmaster use KYB which is what Lexus original shocks are. Not a particularly difficult job to replace them.

I've looked at various coolants for sale and many say suitable for all vehicles. I guess the internal combustion engines in most average cars are made of the same stuff so as long as they're not mixed I don't see a problem. Personally I'd be flushing it with a hose and ordinary tap water, letting it drain and then fill with new coolant. From what I understand the mixing of different coolants can cause them to gel but I don't know of anyone who's experienced that. You could really even fill completely with tap water, get it up to temperature then drain which will give a flush. Some would disagree I'm sure but it's never harmed any of my cars.

Mine seems to work ok now but I still haven't managed to transfer my contacts.

Mouse

History

Snap