plastic orange

Yes, that's correct. They have a hydro formed chassis which is apparently 5 times stiffer than the C4. I've really had no complaints or issues with it despite it being a lot different to the LS 400. As I don't really need a 4 seater car I just fancied a change and the C5 came along, but I really did like my LS as I had it for almost 13years with very little trouble. I wouldn't hesitate getting another if a totally mint one dropped in my lap. Another car I'd like to revisit is a P6b Rover - I had a lovely one for a similar length of ownership as the LS.

I'd no complaints about either performance or handling on my lexus, just that the Corvette has more. It is a surprisingly comfy ride too, obviously not like the Lexus, but for a sports car, pretty good.

I replaced my Ls400 dhp with a C5 Corvette 3 years ago and it's been great - no rot to watch out for and similar mpg, but with more grunt and great handling.

In my case it dripped onto my monoblock and it seemed to seep into the block surface and I couldn't wash it off. Eventually I took a brass wire brush to buff off the stain, but this didn't really get it all off. Prior to this I used brake cleaner, thinners, power washing, jizer etc, in fact anything I could think of. I wasn't really impressed with it, so have never used it again. It may not affect granite cobbles though, but not worth the risk, put down a sheet before working I'd suggest. Pete

Do not let ACF50 drop onto your driveway if you have monoblock. I've mentioned this before, but worth repeating. Pete

I used Classicline when I had my LS. Pete

The Chevy weighs the same as a base mondeo and a lot less than an LS400 - that may surprise folks. It also may surprise folk that the 375hp fuel injected V8 makes it go rather nicely,combined with decent handling with TCI mustang 2 front suspension and Ford Explorer rear end, with discs all round, power steering etc. A popular misconception is that American cars don't handle, but they'd get a real surprise with a C5 Corvette. Most disappointed i've been with a car was when we test drove a new MX5 for my wife. I thought the handbrake was on. The Honda was really a bit too revvy for me with no decent torque and would have become a bit tiresome, but a nice package. I've never tried an Elise, so can't comment, but got put of Lotus cars in the 70's. Pete

I replaced my LS400 18 months ago with a lovely C5 Corvette. Drives as nice as my LS did, but with a bit more go, zero rust, and not far off the same mpg, plus spares are easily sourced at sensible prices.

Hot tip, don't let ACF drip onto monoblock paving on your drive. Don't ask how I know, but it doesn't come off easily. Pete

We bought an RX 300 at 10 years old and rust was similar to what is pictured. Once i bought it I rubbed down as much as I could and painted rust converter on the steel and then primer and finished with Bilt Hamber wax. The wax had to be applied every year otherwise it washed off, particularly on the exposed parts. Sadly, every year, the appearance got worse - and I wasn't doing a huge mileage. At 5 years ownership the rust looked to be becoming a problem, coupled with water leaks into the interior and I decided to move it on - for a Seat Ateca 190 tdi (wife's car). I do the same routine with it, and it's so much better protected from rust than the Lexus (it is a lot newer to be fair). I've checked on the continued MOT history of the RX - and my daughter in law's one of the same age - traded in at the same time and for similar reasons. They both have had sills welded and reports of the structure surrounding the subframe compromised - i doubt they'll last much longer. To cut a long story short, try and buy the best condition one you can and look at numerous examples, especially if you hope to keep it for some time. Perhaps get a proper underbody condition survey and work out if rust being sorted long term is viable prospect. Cars in Scotland do get a hard time though, especially by the sea. As far a engine noise goes I can't really comment, but our previous models were very quiet, and i'd expect nothing less from a lexus. I do wish they'd properly seal the body and underneath though - it's not rocket science. Good luck. Pete

When any car i own leaks, it's time to go. If an RX is pristine underneath then possibly worthwhile to spend time sorting it, but if not - goodbye. My solution was to drill a few holes in the boot and problem mitigated, not solved. Pretty poor that cars of this quality leak and are poorly rustproofed underneath. Pete

Be careful using Captain Tolley as it can damage paintwork if spilled and not cleaned off. Pete

Most insurances offer free chip repairs to windscreens. Pete

Most insurance policies are around £100 excess for windscreen damage, and with the state of our roads it's not wonder screens get damaged. Pete

Well, I sold our RX because of water and rust issues. Drilling holes seemed to work for me and making a 'dam' between boot and interior. When I said it was soaked, it was similar to throwing a bath mat in a bath full of water, and took weeks to dry out even with carpets lifted and me using a heat gun. When a car leaks with me, I move it on as it always brings other issues. I'll never buy another RX. Pete

I read a thread here a while ago about a rusty 450 at not many years old that was purchased from a dealer in Scotland. At the first sign of frost up here, the amount of salt thrown on our roads is shocking and sadly Lexus (actually most japanese cars) are poorly protected underneath. I'd recommend proper rustproofing at the first opportunity - preferably when they are new as once it starts it's hard to stop. However in today's pcp throw away society it's the last thing on folk's mind, when a replacement comes along in a short space of time - much like a mobile phone. Pete

When I bought an RX 300 for my wife, I found the best one I could find and apart from a slight rust scab on front wing, the body was in good order and interior was immaculate. Underside was ok, and certainly way better than the rust buckets I'd looked at previously.It had done just over 100,000 miles and had just had a cam belt fitted and was in good mechanical order. As I tend to keep cars for a long time, I used about 3 tins of bilt hamber underneath after applying rust treatment where required. In the 5 years we owned it, it was pretty reliable, but after about 4 years all of a sudden the entire floor became soaked. I investigated the problem and it was basically water entering the boot area. Try as I might, this was never resolved, but mitigated by drilling holes in boot floor and making a 'dam' between boot and interior. The water ingress was only discovered as I'd started to use a very hilly route to visit family who had moved house, and obviously, coming down a steep hill - the dam burst lol. Just over 2 years ago we decided that we needed to move the car on as the rust underneath had become really quite bad, plus it was picking up random issues - new front caliper after sitting idle during lockdown was the final issue. Our daughter in law also had an RX 300 with similar miles and condition, and it was rusty underneath too, but seemed to be leak free, but she moved hers on just before us. Would I have another - no. When a car starts to leak and rust becomes rampant it's time to move on. I've checked on the MOT history on the one we sold and it's had extensive welding underneath now, but is still on the road. The person I sold my LS400 to also had an RX 400, and his issues with leaks, rust etc ended in the car being scrapped. Any RX you go to see, make sure you have a really close look underneath and check for damp, plus be aware of the mpg these cars return. Pete

In the 12 years I had my LS i went through 4 sets of discs/pads. First were genuine items which looking at the car's history it had several sets in the past and had a relatively recent set when I got it with 121k on the clock. These were replaced after doing about 20k due to the usual brake shimmy with a Blueprint set. These only managed 10k before the shake started, and they produced loads of dust. Next was Pagid discs with Ferodo pads, and these were the best combo in my opinion, and when I couldn't get ferodo pads any more the pads were replaced with pagid items which produced a lot of dust. The dreaded shake started at around 20k of use, getting worse as time went on. Just before I sold the car I fitted a set of EBC discs and pads which again solved the shake problem and car was moved on with the brakes barely bedded in, but no dust produced.

I wasted money on the solar charger recommended by the AA - it actually flattened my battery rather than charged it. This was during winter though, so may just possibly work in our summer, but it won't have a chance as it was binned. Pete

I'm pleased the LS is still doing what it's meant to do. I'm not surprised with your RX woes as they are very similar to the one we had - rust, tail gate issues, gear change, brakes, wheel bearings,water leaks and poor mpg (although I knew that when I bought it). They certainly can't cope well with Scottish weather and from what I can gather even the newer ones aren't well protected underneath either. I would certainly never have another. When we had the LS it was our economy car and less expensive to run generally. Pete

When I sold my Mk 4 DHP last year I struggled to get £2k for it, but then again, I stay in Scotland and that's the end of the universe for folk to travel. However, I only lost £500 in the 12 years I owned it, and the new owner was delighted, so I'm quite pleased it's gone to a good home. Looking at current ads, I'd guess I undersold it, but that's life. I have several old cars and I really don't look upon them as investments as i'll never sell them as they'll be passed down to family members. Whether an LS 400 will achieve Ford Escort prices is debatable as I can't believe what folk are getting for what were very ordinary cars.

I used 235/55 x17's on my DHP which give a slight over read on speedo - 72 on speedo is 70 according to sat nav when new, increasing to about 74 when nearing the wear limit. My tyre choice was Falkens, but they don't last long, but provide great grip and are quiet. Pete

I was quite happy to only have lost £500 from paying £2.5k in 2009 to getting £2k in September last year for my 1999 DHP. Having said that, I was a bit surprised at lack of interest in my sale as it was a nice genuine car. My wife's car has increased by about £4k in value in 18 months - strange times. Pete

Removing rearmost silencers would probably be quite acceptable, but not all of them. A lovely LS 400 local to me had firstly the rear ones removed and this sounded quite meaty with a nice V8 rumble, but this wasn't enough for the guy and he had the rest removed. The result was everyone looking round every time he fired it up, and folk looking for an American Hotrod on open headers. As much as I like loud exhausts, I felt this was a step too far. However, everyone hears things differently and only the owner can decide. Pete

I ran mine (235/55 x17) at 32 psi all round and car rode nicely. Pete