BillNick

I understand your reluctance with the door card removal. Why don't you get some spare poppers before you attempt it? Might fill you with a bit more confidence.

Can't say fairer than that ^^^^

Excellent thanks for everyone's feedback today I have 2x Morimoto XB D4S bulbs for sale in 5500k

That's what I was thinking.....I have seen pairs come up for £75 before. Hard to see from your pic as it is head on view, but do they have that blue tint that mercedes do when driving past along the road?

Cant work out if that ad is for 1 bulb or a pair??

Cheers, Everything points to the Osrams, I will bite the bullet and pay out for them. Get what you pay for as they say.

I upgraded my standard HID D4S bulbs to Morimoto's 5500k and although I am usually impressed by Morimoto's stuff, I am still not getting the brightness I want on the road. Can anyone recommend any other HID upgraded bulbs? Looking for a bright premium bulb with 'Mercedes' colour Pics of output on the road appreciated. Thanks Bill

I have a NSF hub assembly with excellent bearing off a low mileage 2005 if anyone needs one PM me

Hi all, As you might have seen in a previous post, I wanted to modify the fog light switch on the stork so that it would operate the fog lights without having any other lights on first. I don't believe this can be done without going to a skilled auto electrician and paying their high labour rates. Sticking with the idea of using LED headlight bulbs in the OEM fog housings to run as DRLs, I found these units sold by TRS to facilitate the auto on/off control for UK MOT regulations: http://www.theretrofitsource.com/components/harnesses/morimoto-xchange-switchback-drivers.html#.Vg0rpPlVhBc Have emailed TRS for fitting advice and they said there are 3 wires on the units requiring input from my car: 1) a 12v feed from ignition (to turn on lights when car is started) 2) a ground 3) a feed from the parking/side light circuit (to turn off power when sidelights are switched on - which is UK regulation for DRLs) Each of the above is required twice (one for each side) so am I right to be nervous to take 2x live feeds from a given ignition source? Should I add an inline fuse? Where would you recommend I take the live feed from so that the lights only come on when the engine is running? Any other helpful comments are welcomed. Thanks Bill

I have spent a lot of time on the forums trying to find a way to get my fog lights to work without having to have the sidelights on first. I have 9006 LED headlight bulbs in my fogs and when lit, they are bright enough to double as DRLs, but being LED they do not glare. So if I can get the fog light switch to work without any other lights, I could get away with running them as DRLs. Have emailed a couple of auto electricians, but they all want to have the car for an hour to work out how to do it.

Hi all. Last weekend I moved the PC-40 blue wire from from the thick white wire in connector C, over to the thick purple wire in connector C and now the mirror folds on 1st lock. I can only conclude that on my model, thick white is for double lock, and thick purple is first lock. As mentioned by Michael however, not all cars are the same and the variations are endless.

Once you have cleaned apply Autoglym glass protector

On that basis I wouldn't bother if it was me. Diff oil is still every 20k though is that right on the auto??

Lovely cheers I suspected it was connected to wrong wire at the door lock

Mine also only works on double lock What was the remedy?

Gave the MAF sensor plug a wiggle and all ok now

This has also happened to my car today after I removed and refitted the air box to change headlight bulbs. I did turn the ignition to position 1 with the MAF sensor plug removed, so I am sure the car is just trying to tell me its not present. Any way of DIY reset? Maybe disconnect battery?

If it does it whilst driving AND stood still then it must be in the engine compartment as the only moving parts when stationary are under the bonnet.

Yes I do have HIDs as Normski said I have an 08 SEL. I bought a projector retrofit for my 1st Gen IS200 and the tutorial for beam alignment said that the two steps should be at the same height to create a perfect horizontal cut off and they should be the same distance apart as the headlights themselves. Just wondered if OEM specification was any different. I'm gonna get out at dusk this weekend with my screwdriver and give it a go. Thanks all for your input

Thanks Normski, that helps me a lot.

Fair point, I drove around a retail park trying to fine a decent dark wall..... You can just about make out the 'steps' though right?

Anyone?

I notice the OEM puddle lights fade in and out.....will LEDs do this? I know you can get 'dimable' ones but probably not worth the extra cost right?

Leading on from my last post, I disconnected my battery and after connecting it back up again I am pretty certain my headlight alignment is skewed both up n down AND left and right. Could any confirm for me by looking at the pic if my beam alignment is correct or the same as yours? Firstly I notice the 'steps' are not at the same height - shouldn't they be? Second, the left hand 'step' is pointing too far right, and is certainly not straight in line with the headlight on the car. I think it's obvious the steps need to be further apart i.e. each straight inline with its headlight back on the car. Do they need alignment? Can this be done DIY? Thanks in advance

Remove the backing plate inside the inside door handle to reveal a screw. Unscrew. Pop out the window switch panel and detach to reveal 10mm bolt with Phillips head. Unscrew. Reach round the bottom right hand corner of the door card you'll feel a handle. Holding the top of the door with one hand give the bottom of the door card a good yank to free the poppers all the way around the edge. Then lift the top edge of the door card off of the door where it meets the bottom of the window. You'll have to then unbolt the inside handle assembly from the back of the door card in order to fully remove from the car.