chokit

i dont beleive that they are legal, as long as they are not above the wattage, i think its 35w for the fogs, same as your dipped beams, which is plenty bright enough. a have hid bulbs in mine, one problem i have had is that they are not as good at cutting thru the fog as the standear lights. would recommend 4,300k or better yet a 3000k kit. thats for practicality. i its just looks you want go for the same colour as the rest of the car. what i can strongly recommend is hid full beams, i have 55w in mine, went thru the mot no problem and the differance over standard is staggering.

ok, left the car with a garage, who couldnt find the problem. so had a go my self. exhaust is partialy blocked, in the down pipe/3rd cat pipe. time for a replacement i think... megan racing sounds good to me.

this is a problem with my is300

ok, this starts a couple of weeks ago, the check engine light comes on so i grab my little box and read the code, P0430 is what is says. after a quick check it turns out that its the oxygen sensor down stream of the cat, need a new cat or the sensor is dead. no major problem. the problem comes today on my way home from work. the car starts making alot more noise (which sounds like induction noise) and is seriously lacking power. to put the drop of power in perspective, one hill, where i can easily hold 60 had the car locked in 2nd with my foot right down and only just managed 25.

a friend of mine recons that is cracked headers. need some help quickly. thenks

got a similar sort of problem with my front pasanger side, its a sticky caliper, not really a major problem break wear will go up, theres the noise and thats about it really. should still get it fixed tho. personally im saving up for a big break conversion any way so just waiting a few months.

a friend of mine owns and opperates DV8 in kings lyn. does a top quality job. and now has qouted me £1000 for a complete respray in "candy apple red" he's currently refurbing my wheels in black too, £100 for the set.

right here goes

bonnet,hinges.2x wings,front panel,bonnet catch plus cable, bumper,poss crash bar,head lamp washers,head lamps,any clips that go with them+support pannels ,grill,radiator,ac condenser,timing covers ,air intake,poss acc belts(p/s,a/c) poss some jig work(chassis legs and innerwings),poss a/c pump,poss pas pump,a/c pipes,poss p/s pipes,cooling fans a/c fans paint,alighnment of all panels labour,and vat

might be more thats just going on the pic.

by the look of it, the head lamp washers may have missed the majority of the impact. just snapped the plastic cover off the top. the bumper went under the back of what ever you hit so most of the bamage would be higher up. it could have been a hell of alot worse, the front is designed to crumple up like that, stops you from getting hurt. should be repairable by the look of it.

even if you dont repair it, buy it back and part it up. you can get money for anything that isnt damaged. you could easy make more that the £500 your paying to get it back. some one offered me a couple of hundred for my standard lexy wheels a couple of weeks back. had to say no for 2 reasons: 1, keeping them to put back on when i eventuly do sell. 2, hes a complete f**king idiot and eants to put them on a passat.

i would like to install this digital tachometer+shiftlight that i have purchased this weekend, to do that i need to install 3 wires.

red(12v), black(ground), and an rpm signal wire

so where do i install it?

the car is a european lexus is200

sorry for not introducing myself, an my bad english ofcourse

generaly you just bolt the tach to the dash where you can see it, but is not blocking your sight. so some where it looks good.

your red one (+12v) you need to find a power source, there is not one that goes directly into the back of the instrment pannel, that i can see, so use one from the stereo or something. try splicing it into the light blue/yellow wire there.

For the black (ground) splice the wire into the brown/white wire on the back of the instrment pannel.

the third wire you need to splice into the black wire that connects to pin 7, PLUG K in the junction box in the left foot well. That is the tacho out put from the ecu.

im not 100% sure about this. just been looking thru the workshop manual and thats what ive got. as always you do modifications at your own risk and i assume no responsibility for any damaged caused.

Just watched Top Gear on Dave------- Clarkson mouthing off about the Lexus 5 Litre ISF... Not very complimentary... Does he really know what he is talking about??? Changed his tune about BMW's. Now it used to be he said "you need to be a :tsktsk: to buy a BMW!!" now he's changed to say in comparison the the Lexus " You need to be a :tsktsk: NOT to buy a BMW". I think he is a :tsktsk: . Lexus is superior to BM's and I wish he would get taken off our screens... grrrrrr, gnash, gnash.... Fat OAF.

Am I bovvered.... Am I bovvered..... YEAH.... LOL

Col.. Hee Hee.

is there any point complaining? plus have you driven the m3? it is an astonishing machine.

this is seriously vexing me now. the bulbs work, i can put a jumper in across the relay and they switch on, thus the wiring is also good for that side of the fog light circuit. the relay works, checked it on the Battery, the switch works, and the fuses are ok (all of them in the car, i ran out of ideas i checked them all) i also have current between the 2 wires that go to the fog light switch, so that side of the circuit is also good. but when its all plugged in it just wont work.!!!!! HELP!

quick question, does any one know where the lighting relays are on the is300, i think my fog light relay has gone as they won't switch on. ive checked the switch, bulbs and fuses. i just can't find the relay. the work shop manual says that it is in J/B 2, but doesnt tell me where j/b 2 is. there is no sign of it in either box under the bonnet and i can't see any relays in the 2 boxes in the foot well. its driving me insane.

is it easy to swap from the orange? any sort of filter i need to take out?

i was not asking for an opinion, was checking if it was legal befor doing it, so i know what to expect, any potential hastle etc...

done my head lights thins morning

used some tinted laquor on the indicator lenses. a couple of light coats did the job, and the indicators are still visible. removed the reflector behind the bulb and sprayed it black too.

you know what, most of the time i just do something and find out later if its legal or not, just going to do it andsee what happens, cant really see it as a problem. they will switch off when the main beams do, unless i switch them on seperatly, when it would be foggy anyway.

My Son in law had an on the spot fine for using his fog lights.

I would advise reading the Highway Code. as Sagitar says.

Rule 94 says - "You MUST NOT - use front or rear fog lights unless visibility is seriously reduced. You MUST switch them off when visibility improves to avoid dazzling other road users"..

People seem to think it is cool to drive with there front foglights on but they are a menace and you WILL get pulled over by the BILL.

Y'know wot I'm thinkin????... What for? and, Why bother??? Just keep yer Lexy normal. They look great as they are. or, go for some more classy mod's???

Col.. :winky: :D :) ;)

getting pulled is nothing new, been pulled before for doing some really dumb stuff (such as 90 in a 30, doing 120 on the m25, etc...) and i still have a clean licence. dont ask me why they always let me off but they do. confuses the hell out of me. could have lost my licence around 6 times over.

as for just keeping my lexy normal, cars are my hobby. i like to play with them in my spare time. i brought the lexus cos it has so much potential for what i can do to it. my main plan is to drop a 2jz-gte in, saving up for that at the moment. it keeps me busy and stops me "vandilising phone boxes and mugging grannys" cos thers bugger all else to do around here.

as for converting them to driving lights, as far as im aware, it is not a legal requirement fo have front fogs, just rear. and there are alot of vechiles on the road with driving lights hooked up to their full beams. it wouldnt take alot to fully convert the fogs to driving lights, but would like to be able to use them when its foggy too.

just wondering if it is legal to set up my front fog lights to come on with my main beam, its not a hard job, just a wire and a diode, bit of soldering and a touch of insulating tape or shrink tubing. will still be able to turn them on seperatly.

With those ones mate, you will need to cut them using a dremmel or something. Easy to do but you need to be careful. You can glue it back together with some silicone, no probs. Looks like you're handy so I am sure you will do a good job as you did with your fogs.

yeah thats what i was thinking, bit of a pain in the arse but will be worth it. going to have a go at my headlights in the next couple of days, if they fit in my oven.

always seeing people asking about foglights, always see the same answer of just swapping the unit. seems as i was cracking the lights anyway i thought that i would have a look at the projector glass to see if i could get the dye off.

On Friday morning I successfully managed to mod my fog lights, this is a write up on how to do it your self.

First off the disclaimer:

If you do decide to undertake this modification your self then you do so at your own risk, there is a risk of permanently damaging your lights.

Stage 1: Remove the lights.

This is simple, there are 2 10mm bolts holding it in inside the hole directly next to it, undo them and pop the light out then remove the plug on the back of the bulb. Then remove the bulb, I had to use a hammer (gently) to get the bulb out.

Stage 2: Cooking it.

This is the risky part of the modding, you need to preheat your oven to 95c or 200f. At this temperature the sealant starts to melt. ABS, which makes up the main body of the light unit, starts to melt around 240f – 260f (I believe) depending on the quality. The butyl has the lowest melting point of all the materials in the unit. You need to leave it in for 10mins, when you take it out (careful it will be hot) use a flat screw driver to prise the lens off the front of the unit. You can also now remove the chrome surround from inside the light, be careful not to get any of the butyl on the surround or the lens as it is a SOB to get off again. Now wait for all parts to cool down.

Stage 3: Yellow to clear conversion.

When I took the unit apart I did not expect this part to work, but it did. The yellow colouring on the projector glass is a thin layer of dye on the flat side of it, to remove the glass all you have to do is undo 2 philips screws, one on either side of the glass, these hold down a metal ring which holds the glass in place. When you have the glass out place a piece of wet dry paper on a hard surface. I originally used 600p for the first lens, took over an hour to do, the second I found some 320p and it took 5mins.

After you have the dye removed you will need to polish the glass, to do this I had a mop attachment in my drill that I had clamped to my work bench, put some polishing compound on the glass and remember to use plenty of water to lubricate it.

Stage 4: Spraying.

My main intention was to change the colour of the surround with this mod, I decided to go for black ‘cos cars always look better with black lights up front in my opinion. I also decided to go for a matt finish. This was easy, I first roughed the surface with the 320p paper, gave it a coat of primer and then sprayed the black over the top. I used light coats as the tolerances in the light my be a bit tight and I didn’t want to stop the unit being put back together because of paint build up.

Stage 5: Reassembly

When your paint has dried you can now put the unit back together, screw the glass back into the projector unit, place the surround back into the lens and loosely put the lens back on to the unit. Place the light back into the oven, same temp and time as before. When you take the light out push the lens into the unit until it is together as tight as before. The unit should be sealed again, if your unsure then use some silicon sealant around the join, you can never really have too much, as long as its out of sight. All what is left is putting the bulb back in and putting it on the car. Stand back and admire your work.

I hope that this has been and will be help to many. Your headlights come apart in the same way so you can make them match. Your rear light are not however. Trying to work that one out still.

you can try taking out the wheel arch plastic and covering the vents with some fibre glass, thats what i would do.

no nav fitted, so shouldnt be a problem.

i have 2 wires that i dont know what to do with at the moment, there is a green wire and a white/green wire, both of which are not part of the sheilded cable. thanks

thanks alot, will see if I can do it with what info I've got now, only problem i may have is that there are 15 wires hanging out the dash and only 13 on the diagrams i have seen here. will have to see whats left.

i am trying to help one of my friends put the standard stereo back into his RHD IS300, i beleive it is the 8 speaker version. the problem i have is he cut off then lost the connecters which went into the back of the stereo (he said he kept them but i bet he threw them away). We managed to get a copy of the wiring diagrams from a toyota dealership but there are more wirers in the car than on the diagram and the colours dont match (we have the 6, 8 and 9 speaker diagrams).

what i would like is some photos of the connecters showing which colour wire goes to which pin in the connecter.

the car is a uk spec eirly 2002 model.

thanks.