DaKa

I got a bit carried away with EBay buying the other day and now have a bunch of things to fit to my SC430. They weren't needed as car is fine for MOT, but I would like to think it will firm up the handling as new! I just wondered if anyone had any 'watch out for' warnings before I start what looks like straight forward tasks to replace. Front brake discs and pads Upper control arms Lower arm ball joints Track rod ends and fit a new Strut brace Thanks

Likewise with the door mirrors on my SC430. My LS430 interestingly is not as bad, but the more I fold them in and out the better it gets. However, I just leave them out now to avoid a faff if one or other fails to return to its position. Does you passenger mirror dip down when you select reverse. Mine did, I assume it is a feature. However, not that I check it much, but wonder if there is a setting somewhere for this as now it doesn't do it?

Pics taken at the weekend show the up/down motor after the 2 x lower Allen key style bolts either side of the column had been removed. I then found that by removing the pushin electric connection and unscrewing the lock washer (single small Allens key style screw) that I could turn and adjust the position of the motor which has clearly seized. I stopped short of removing it completely, this would have meant removing the smaller c-clip at the back of the threads not in view. Perhaps when removed I could try and free it up, so I may have another go again next weekend. With a couple of spins I adjusted the height position, so now all reconnected the wheel goes in and out okay, but now is the right height for to to drive and getting in and out, I no longer scuff my thighs. Should I completely remove and get it working fully again I will let you know. Got a quote for new motor delivered from Lexus £396 and as mentioned above thats's almost criminal!

Took off the cover 3 x screws, nice and easy, expected to see the threads for the up/down motor, but it was all rather hidden. It then seems from reading around that you have to remove the metal cover using the Allen keys, but it wasn't clear if you needed to remove the indicator housing etc and if just 2 Allen key bolts need removing or 4? I loosened all 4 but wasn't confident enough to remove anything to give me better access to the motor and threads, so I reassembled and did a bit of research. It does look as if you could try and turn the threads by removing the small C clip at the back of the threads and using pliers to grip and turn. However, it is clearly more involved and better access to the motor will mean removing more. I can't believe how expensive new motors are - the price is rediculous and in no way justified. It's almost a third of the likely value of my old LS430, so I will either learn to live with it, or risk breaking something removing more from the steering column to try and free up the motor. There are second hand parts from a breakers, but who wants to risk £100 plus the hassle of fitting only to find that it fails?

Just to add that I believe the fuse in question was located in the drivers footwell labelled TI/TE if I recall. As far as I can tell there was just one 20 amp fuse, so if like me either in/out or up/done work then it is unlikely to be the fuse. Next thing will be to remove the steering column bits and try to manually adjust and lubricate the up/down motor. Hopefully that will free it, otherwise a new motor that frankly will be uneconomical for such an old car - what a pain!

I read some other posts and see this is a familiar problem sometimes solved by a simple disconnect and reconnect of the positive battery terminal. Unfortunately, this didn't solve things for me,. Before I follow the advice of other posts and remove a few things to give me access to the the motor to free things up, I want to check the fuse. Does anyone know of the 5 fuse boxes on LS430 where is the fuse for the steering adjustment motors located? Thxs

Thanks for the replies. Restting my preferences doesn't work unfortunately. Interesting that your column goes up/down but not in/out the opposite for me! Could it be 2 separate motors with different fuses? Ive had it before when after a battery recharge nothin worked, but the after a few attempts and pushing up on the wheel slightly as I operated the adjusting lever things started working again. For me the height of the steering wheel, at the lowest setting is about right when the column moves out towards me, but it does making getting in the car a little more awkward! Someone out there knows what causes this, if I take it to my local specialist and get it fixed I will be sure to post a reply. Rgds

I had to disconnect and recharge the battery on my old LS430 2001. Unfortunately, the steering column adjustment up/down has stopped working since reconnecting. The in/out adjustment does however still work though! This has happened before were neither adjustment seemed to work, but then after a few stop starts it works again. However this time it doesn't seem to want to reset! I'm thinking there is a trick to resetting things, combination of buttons? On the basis that the in/out steering adjustment works, but not up/down, presumably it's not a fuse as it must be part of the same mechanism? Any suggestions out there, or do I just need to wait for it to mysteriously start working again.

Located in Essex, this seems a close venue. To the uninitiated what is the format and expectation of this meet? Thxs

I'm having the 4 x spare stock SC430 2003/4 wheels that I purchased recently refurbished, but only intend to keep 2 of them as spares with perhaps winter tyres fitted. I am seeking opinion as to whether I should fit tyres to the refurbished wheels before I offer for sale (as I have one near new Dunlop sport already) and/or if I should sell them as a pair or just 2 x single items? If you have an interest, let me know? Thxs

Hi, still delighted with my 2003 SC430 3 months into ownership, albeit not the best of weather until this week. I'm getting a clunk sound from the steering when turning sharply at low speed, parking etc. I presume it is some worn bushes or track rod ends perhaps that aren't as solid as they used to be. Has anyone had anything similar? Easy enough to replace bushes, ball joints, track rods, but would prefer to do just the bit needed. Is there a way of knowing what is the clunk cause, or is it a matter of getting it up in the air and testing some joints for movement with a lever? Thxs

Thanks. I have also since found a few postings that all state removing from the bottom up the covers to access the CD and carefully remove the CDs. At some point I will need to give it a try, else hope a speed bump or something magical removes the block/error.

Hi, The CD player in my LS430 is now not working. I was not in the car when the problem started, but my wife swears that she simply turned it on and a message appeared on the display 'CD Error'. Note: I had to re-charge the battery a week ago after it went flat, this has happened on more than one occasion previously and my actions to disconnect and charge the battery were identical as before, but it may of course be a factor? The radio and cassette works normally, but when you push the eject CD button there is a beep and it jumps straight to the radio. Pushing other buttons it occasionally says, 'no CD' but then reverts to 'CD Error'. Does anyone know if there is reset anywhere or how to eject a CD without removing the whole section of the dash that holds the CD system? Can these gremlins be fixed or will I need to find a donor from a scrapyard? Thxs

I had a local garage 'Queen's Park tyres, Billericay' fit 2 x new 245/40/18 supplied by me to the front yesterday. Just £10 per tyre including balancing (awesome guys and service thoroughly recommended) tracking was checked for free and found to be spot on. The results have been a massive improvement in steering that make the car feel really planted. Pads at the front were a little low and although discs were good, I will change them both in the next few weeks. Didn't push it, but I was impressed with the grip when cornering on what are budget tyres. Makes me wonder why bother buying the expensive brands if you are not on a track! Tyres make 'Invovic' (China made of course) are B/C rated 69db and the cost for 4 x delivered to my door was a staggering £162. I may put the other 2 x tyres on the rear, but the rears are brand new Haida, again I believe these are budget tyres? I've got 4 new wheels that I'm refurbishing, so they will be fitted soon somewhere. Keeping 2 as spares in the garage perhaps with winter tyres and will be selling the other 2 so that another owner out there can do the same.

Love my new SC430 but clearly a few things to check. One thing noticeable is that when cruising along a reasonable straight road, the car appears to wander by pulling either a bit left or right as if blown by a strong wind! It reminds me of an old 850 mini that I used to own where the tyres were so thin they used to follow the camber in the road. The front tyres do not match, so I have two brand new tyres to fit soon, together with new front discs and pads and this may well solve the problem. However, I feel that it is probably either tracking, or, perhaps worn bushes/track rod ends? Having literally just passed an MOT end Mar it would have been something that I would expect to have been noticed if this were the case? Does anyone have any suggestion here as the pull left or right (btw this does not happen under braking) is very disconcerting. I did read reports before buying the car that this was common and the other 2 test drives that I had on other similar models the steering also felt 'strange'. Is this something that I just have to get used to? Thxs

Just picked up 4 x standard stock 2003 era wheels in great condition. Bought them from a guy who had them included when he bought his SC430 as it had already been fitted with replacement Mercedes wheels. They don't look to have been used in years and have no signs of curbing - so I'm chuffed. Probably will fit 2 of them with winter tyres to act spares and in case of any puncture. Perhaps sell the remaining once I've fitted new tyres to any other member who like me might want to keep a full sized spare in the garage in case of need. Alternatively I might just preserve them for when my own need refurbishing. Send me a message if you have a need. They seem to be quite rare and I've only seen them on US EBay over-priced!

I can answer my own question here - set of 4 x stock SC430 wheels only currently on EBay located in Maidenhead. Have submitted my bid and will wait and see. Previous search was for wheels and tyres, so nearly missed this as wheels only.

Just left a note on a newbie member's post about wheels/tyres. Are there any members out there with stock SC430 wheels/tyres one, two or all four that they are prepared to sell? I guess many have changed their wheels/rims and kept the old stock wheels/tyres just in case. I like the idea of keeping one or two spare in my garage just in case of punctures and to swap about with different tyres summer/winter etc. They seem to be hard to find in the UK and I don't feel comfortable importing from US where you seem to see a lot more for sale! Post a note or send me a message if you know of any that may be available. Thxs

Like you I've just bought an SC430 being my second Lexus. Indeed, also extremely pleased so far and everything on mine does seem to be working fully. The tyres are indeed as stated 245/40/18 and it's good to know that fatter can be fitted to the rear. I have been trying to find on EBay a spare wheel tyre as I'm not too happy at not having one of those baby spares. I don't want to carry a spare about, but I like the idea of having one or perhaps a pair of stock at home in the garage in case of need. The only stock wheels that I have seen are USA based. The cost of the same in the UK probably explain why so many change them for aftermarket wheels. There must be somewhere UK that I can buy the odd spare wheel/tyre with so many owners changing there car's look and obviously those SC430s that go to the car graveyard?

Here's one of many links to the items in question - similar on Amazon. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/351606779448?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Thxs

Yes, good news in that all done by Lexus Plymouth in 2009 when they resold the car. Serviced by Lexus Woodford Green regularly since, with the last service April 2015. My main question was on the usage of independently sourced OEM or OE timing belt kits from USA. Any thoughts links or comments from those experienced in trying this would be appreciated. Thxs

I've just purchased a nice SC430 (2003) and I feel that I got a good deal at £6250. My concern was the mileage 91,000 and the fact that the owner did not know when/if the cambelt had been changed. Having owned a LS400 and also since 2009 a LS430 I know how important this item maintenance item is! The good news is cleaning the engine bay I noticed a small plaque confirming the belt was changed in 2009 at circa 30,000 miles - presumably changed on the basis of age (7 years?). This means I'm no longer in a panic to get a new belt, but I feel one is due before the summer? Changing a timing belt and water pump isn't new to me, I've done the LS and my classic Lotus Excel, but having got to that age in life and with a few bob in the bank, I want to use an independent Lexus specialist Westfield Rayleigh, Essex to do this for me. Their quotation was excellent and even cheaper should I opt to provide the parts that they will fit, that surprised me. My question is that I can see some well priced kits belt, pump, tensioner etc described as OEM and/ or OE parts, the manufacturers are all household names. However, they are imports from USA! Does anyone have any good things to say about these kits, or must they be UK sourced - differences in spec etc? I wonder if the lack of Lexus or Toyota on the parts box makes a difference as the manufacturer may well be the same Japan based company. Looking forward to getting the top down and keeping my Lexi in top condition this year.

It will be the WE before I can take some actual pics. I found the image below on the web that shows where my pipes have been cut and where I will blank them. My mechanic erroneously joined the two separate pipes together usng a splicing kit 8-12 mm. The AC gas has been removed and just awaiting confirmation on where to blank off before the gas is re-applied.

Many thanks - this is indeed just about where the pipes under the car have been cut. It appears to be just 1 x 8mm and 1 x 12mm pipe. I've blanked off the 8mm today with a compression joint, but only had a 10mm end compression joint so will need to wait for the larger 12mm to arrive (ebay). Just now wondering if the blank off needs to be slightly further towards the front where I can see a compression join - to the front of the plastic panel under the passenger door? Will my brass compression end caps on these aluminium compound pipes take the pressure - I get the feeling that they will really bite into the softer pipe and are good for what is required. Are there any links to custom compression joints that I should try?