DaKa

Thanks John. I guess that it is time to renew but will check your post about changing the battery first as I thought this wasn't possible. Strange that the battery got some power back in the summer months - but I guess heat could be a factor. I have a local garage that fits and balances tyres for £10 cash so definitely a nice cheap option.

My Tyre pressure monitor warning light on the dashboard has just come on. It did this about the same time last year as the weather went cold and then switched off again in the spring when things warmed up again without me doing anything to it. The father in law believes on his Ford Focus that there is a winter and summer setting (e.g. I guess for different pressures) that you need to reset - is there such a thing on an SC or do the valves finally need replacing?

I mentioned a post about this problem 2-3 years back. I bought 2 x Hubs as that was the deal on Ebay imported from USA. Even with the duty it was a fraction of the price in the UK. I sold the unwanted extra hub to a lucky UK buyer for circa £50 reducing my cost for the one part I needed. A local garage charged just 2 hours labour to fit one side. One thing to mention - when the Hub is replaced and the mechanic removes the drive shaft (6 x hex bolts plus 2 x horseshoe washers) make sure they put them back in with enough torque (92 lbs). Mine came undone (twice!!!) and the washer damaged the AC pipe above the axle breaking my rear AC. The bolts and washers are an expensive items circa £40 so use some locking metal glue!! I should have sued the garage but it was a while before I realised the AC wasn't working.

Definitely do NOT connect the two pipes to make a loop under the front passenger seat- my local mechanic did this with my blessing and nearly messed the whole system up - they operate under different pressures. The only thing I would say is to get them capped off professionally - I have a few goes with custom compression joints and failed miserably. Front AC more than good enough for the car. It required a new condenser (circa £220 Lexus supply only) and was all done by an AC specialist near Benfleet in Essex, so too far for you unfortunately, but I can dig out their name if you are interested..

Sorry Steve, I was just about to type that I threw it away (tilt motor) only recently having sorted out my garage, but I've just managed to pull it out from the garage bin (don't worry it only contained my car refuse). Send me a private note of your postal address and I'll try and get it to you (no promises). Damo

Here's the link - I got the price wrong it was only £70 and well well worth it.

I posted details and pictures of problems with the tilt motor a while back. Bought a replacement from Ebay (refurbished) circa £100 - they didn't want the old one back either. Having taken the old motor out their is nothing DIY about repairing it, but it clearly can come apart with the right tools and no doubt there will be bushes stuck or worn that can be changed. Adjusting the title height to a fixed position is actually straight forward and there are posts about this already. That what I did prior to replacing the up/down tilt motor. I'm not so sure about the In/Out motor which looks a little more awkward to get at, but certainly DIY doable.

When reversing if the mirror to adjust switch is set to the left (near side) then the mirror should automatically dip so you see more of the curb. If it was a power supply issue then the mirror would not dip as standard. With help of another (if your arms aren't long enough), have you tried manually moving (encouraging it gently) it as the mirror fold button is selected. Mine got moving that way and I've found that used regularly it works better as previously one side or the other would only part fold.

How did you get on here Andy? I would ask if the noise is only when turning left, is it sharp left (acute full lock) or slight left at speed say exiting a roundabout? Bearings would normally grumble and be more noticeable with a left or right turn. On my LS430 the rear near side bearing caused a whine that increased in frequency with speed. In that case it was a rear bearing hub assembly that I had to replace. It was cheaper to buy 2 x Hub assembly from USA (£100) including import tax rather than source in the UK. I sold the second unwanted hub and got £60. 2 hours labour from the local garage £120 meant the cost of repairs was low. There are some good posts on youtube regarding SC430 rear rotor and pad replacement worth checking if you want (like me) to appear less confused when explaining to a mechanic.

I worried about the lack of a spare and decided to buy a spare full sized wheel/tyre to keep in my garage. In the end I bought a set of 4 because that's what the guy was selling. My thinking is that you rarely get a puncture that you don't wake up to at home especially with TPMS working. If you are unfortunate enough to get a blow out, then being an AA member already they should get me and the car home. Spare sets or odd wheels can be very cheap - I tried to sell a set a while back and they got no attention at all on Ebay. There are some expensive odd single and sets of tyres about and I would suggest keeping an eye out for 1-4. It certainly comforts me to know that I have spares at home should I need them, but you do need the storage space I suppose.

Can I add another aspect to this topic. Having recently sold a spare set of LS430 17 inch rims refurbished from a 2001 model to someone who preferred them to their perished later 2006 model 18 inch rims. Before investing in new tyres and potentially spending 400 to 600+ quid, would it be better to convert to 18 inch wheels/tyres from later models first? Handling, ride, compatibility, speedo accuracy etc.?

The SC430 being less common on the roads was one reason that I purchased my 2003 model. I can see them becoming more desirable and collectable as their numbers diminish. However, what will future collectors look for in terms of wheels? I have been impressed by the look and stance of some cars sold with the newer or after-market wheels/tyres fitted, but will collectors want originality? Mine has standard dustbin lid style chrome caps and I keep a spare set x 4 as I'm convinced that they will be useful. Personally, I like the look of twisted chrome caps if choosing from the production options of the era, but would it make any difference to a buyer 5 or 10 years from now?

I will vote for anyone who advocates a levy on petrol instead of vehicle tax for private vehicles. Paying circa, £800 to keep 3 old cars legitimate annually when covering less than 5,000 miles per annum between all 3 cars is unfair particularly considering the state of our roads. What worries me is that it will only get worse as they look to penalise larger engine owners!

Excellent pool of advice and comment all. I agree that recommendation, rating and feedback ranks ahead of label and price tag. Winter grip for me is an issue as frankly, sub zero, the car stays in the driveway. With rear drive, I just don't have the confidence to stop and stay straight in sleet, snow or ice. Winter tyres fitted on spare wheels in the garage for the back and perhaps the front also in case of a 'cold snap' appeals to me so I will look for NEW rated and recommended tyres now as this time of year I guess there are deals to be had. Thxs.

What's a fair price to pay for new 225/55/17 tyres and should used tyres be avoided at all cost! I'm thinking of putting some winter tyres on a couple of spare wheels for sub zero temperatures (those 2-3 days we get each year in sunny Essex) and I see a huge variance on EBay with some cheap part worn winter examples? 99% of the time I simply poodle about in my LS430 and it would be a lack of concentration, without the cruise control on, if I were to exceed 80 even on motorways. Therefore, for me, does buying cheap Chinese or budget tyres really make a difference. If the tyre rating is legitimate and the noise rating is good or better will I notice any difference? I bought 4 x new tyres last year delivered to my home for just £160 for my SC430 and they seem perfectly fine. Currently running Kumho (mid priced) having had Dunlop Sports previously.

Thanks Phil, I get your point about a professional finish having just DIY refurbished some LS430 wheels I'm selling and you are absolutely right. However, it's not a valuable car now and I'm just looking to make it a bit better (from a short distance away!) It would be good to know if a replacement rear bumper (skin) that I've seen on EBay the same colour would be easy to swap - anyone done this before?

With a bit of hunting I found. Plate on the inner wing offside under the bonnet, and after cleaning can make out as follows: MODEL : UCF30R-AEAGKW C/TR/A/TM: 4P7LR04A01AA650E I guess it is part of the latter for my paint code? Should be a bronze/gold metallic if that helps? I presume Lexus/Toyota only to buy a tin of paint?

My lovely daughter decided to adjust her manual seat position on our driveway while manoeuvring her Ford Focus that has a slight inclination. This resulted in the seat shooting fully back to the point her feet couldn't reach the pedals. After the crunch sound, my Lexus LS430 immaculate rear bumper was damaged to the near side, mainly because the impact from her front bumper was the part containing the tow fixing! 2 questions? I can't find my paint code under the bonnet or inside the doors - where is it hiding? Would I be better to buy a new bumper skiing, I've seen one on EBay for £85 the same colour match? My guess is that a bumper skin change with all the reversing sensors and fixings could be more of a problem than a bit of bumper filler and touch up spray.

Appreciate the tip and will check this out. Guess that I will need to keep looking for an offer.

Does anyone have a spare or recommend a UK supplied strut brace that I can purchase reasonably? I've seen some USA and Japan sites, but feel they are a little too expensive. Ideally, I would not want to pay more than circa £100.

Finally took a punt on a salvaged spare tilt motor on eBay uk with 3month warranty. It was priced at £75 but I got it for just £70. It arrived for free next day and was in great condition together with connecting wires that I was not expecting. An hour later fitted and everything working as new. Just one scare when the tiny C-Clip went missing. It was on the drivers side floor carpet but so small I couldn't see it. Be careful not to lose this, as there is a danger when removing the clip and replacing it, that it could ping off into the hidden areas of the dash never to be seen again. I don't know why I waited so long for what is a straight forward task. 6m Allen key, screwdriver and pair of pliers are the only tools needed.

Thanks, that's good to know.

Noted and thanks for the suggestion to spray wd40 or releasing fluid. I am a bit worried about forcing a few things and hope that one of my 2 styles of ball joint splitters will work! Just waiting for the weather to warm a bit.

Sorry, just re-read above and I was too late with my suggestion!

If it's not too late to make a suggestion. So pleased was I with the 4 x Kumho tyres fitted to my Lotus instead of Yokohama that I fitted 4 x new Kumho tyres circa 3 years ago to my LS430 and although not a big annual mileage user, circa 15,000 miles later they are still in very good order with plenty of tread and grip. I noticed the grip and braking immediately much better compared with the Goodyear Sports that preceded, and the prior tyres were still well within the legal limits. From memory it was circa £80 per corner fitted and balanced so excellent value. Highly recommend Kumho.