Steviewevie

It's the passenger side fuse box for the "TV" fuse. You might find some spare fuses in the fuse box in the engine bay (on the passenger side too).

Also bear in mind that the factory-fitted HIDs on later ISs don't have projector lamps either, just regular reflectors.

Mac - yeah, I've seen lots of comments very similar to yours about those extractors. Is that even if you do it by hand though ? Or just if you use a drill ? I've seen stuff saying that using a drill with them is why they get stuck. Bazza - I'm by the border of Hants and Berks. But popping over your way is a tempting option !

Hmm, if the thread wasn't right in the first place and I ended up cross-threading it, that would explain a lot ! How to I re-tap a thread ? Do I need something like this ?

The TRD skirt is still available from Toyota/Lexus. Would have thought you'd be able to get a nice discount Ormi ! :winky:

If other people have had their cars impounded regarding HIDs then I imagine it would have been for having very blue/purple ones (e.g. 10,000K). I am very very sceptical that anyone would have had their car impounded for having reasonable (e.g 6000K), properly aligned aftermarket HIDs, since the law is somewhat grey on this area. There are lots of other reasons the police could pull cars too, to do with insurance/tax/tints etc.

Take off the cover and have a look. Have a look at the second page of these diagrams, it's the top cover I think that you should be able to get off pretty easily, at least partially off so you can see if the belt looks new.

I think that the rear suspension is different on the SportCross, yes. The part numbers for the standard springs are different, so I imagine that you shouldn't use the normal lowering springs designed for the saloon. I know that the ARBs are different too.

The sunroof fuse is on the driver's side too, so it's all consistent with a problem there. Sounds like you need to sort out the sealing of the windscreen. An ideal way to do it would be at Lexus rather than a mobile fitter, since Lexus will much more likely know how to do it properly. You might be able to clean up any corrosion etc on the fuse box yourself, once the leak is fixed, without needing a new one. Have a look it it and see how it all looks.

My logic says that losing a coil pack doesn't affect the TRC though. You've got less power to start with, so if you get wheelspin the TRC can still kick in. I don't see how the TRC is less effective just because of a problem with one cylinder, unlike the ABS example, but maybe I'm missing something.

I see what you're saying Gord, but if you have a coil pack go then you've still got five other cylinders and reduced power, why can't the TRC just cut the power further still if it detects wheelspin ?

Thanks Stav, I get it now :)

Tried the Dremel/unscrew method, it didn't work. Easy enough to make the groove with the Dremel, but the bolt wouldn't budge, and I ended up shearing off more of the bolt. I will see if there is enough room to file down the sides and use Mole grips, but given how it seems to be stuck fast, I think I'm going to have to drill it out. I've seen mention of those "Easy Out" extractors on some web pages, with people saying they often end up breaking those too.

Looks like there are going to be two incredible shiny Aztec Fire IS200s at JAE this year ! :D

I think that edeath got a similar (don't know if it was identical) intercooler off eBay for his charger kit.

ok, hmm, I still don't understand why the TRC OFF light flashes if a coil pack goes. I'm not doubting it though, I'll lodge that in the old knowledge bank somewhere Great news that you've sorted it now ! :D

Basically put a socket on the end, and bang f**king hard on the top with a hammer, basically its a short sharp shock that should loosen them. I'm trying to figure out which part of that kit you would use. Is it the big black thing (the impact driver ?) that you then attach a socket to, you whack the impact driver and it converts the hitting force into torque to loosen the stud/nut/whatever ?

Stav, how does that work ? :duh:

Thanks guys, some interesting ideas there. I've got a Dremel so might try putting a slot into it to see if I can screw it out. I feel that at least there's less chance of damaging anything important if I try that (as opposed to if I drill it out).

I have managed to snap the head off one of the bolts used in attaching my bonnet strut kit. Any ideas on how to remove it ? This is a bolt that I had just screwed in, it's not an old bolt rusted into the hole. There is still a reasonable amount of the thread sticking up above the hole, but I have tried and failed to get some mole grips to lock onto it to let me turn it. From looking around on the Internet I've seen one suggestion of filing down the sides of what is poking out to give me a flat surface, to give me more purchase to grip it and turn it. Any other ideas ? Not really looking forward to trying to drill it out, since I've never done that before.

Wow, looks amazing ! :D

You need a proper HID conversion kit, which includes ballasts (small boxes of electronics to provide the very high voltage that the HID needs). The bulbs that you are seeing are just regular halogen bulbs with a little bit of xenon gas in them to make them look whiter (IMHO don't waste your money on those). You should be able to get a decent HID conversion kit for around £50. e.g. this one sounds ok, as does this one. There are loads though What you need is just a kit for HB4/9006 bulbs, any with those should do ok (and will get you a *lot* more on eBay than just searching for "Lexus").

Actually, I've just had another thought. Bit of a long shot, but I wonder if the problem with the engine feeling rough could be because of the TRC malfunctioning and cutting in when it shouldn't be doing so ? i.e. it's all down to the TRC. I'm only guessing here, so could be way off, but as I said, the TRC light shouldn't have anything to do with your coil packs.

I'm no expert on this, but I don't think that rules out water being connected to the problem. e.g. maybe there's some corrosion in there, and a bit of fresh water helped actually make contact (since water conducts), and it drying out was actually the problem because it exposed corrosion again ? Would be worth having a poke around, particularly under the driver's side of the dash (since that's where the TRC ECU is) and seeing if the fuse box and associated connectors shows any signs of water, similarly around the other electrical components there.

I see your logic, but looking at the manual I can't see anything that says it works like that. Does the TRC OFF light just keep flashing all the time now, or is it intermittent ? The ABS/TRC ECU is underneath the dash on the driver's side. You don't have any other electrical problems do you ? Going along with an unfortunately common theme at the moment, as Lexus suggested to you, it could be water ingress, possibly from a badly sealed windscreen ?