Steviewevie

Thanks Bazza. Yeah, it's the inner wing, and I didn't think there was anything nearby that would be a problem. Stav - it's the hole on the opposite side of the car (driver's side) to the one that holds the fuse box down. It's just an empty hole originally.

Pretty sure that JZS147R is correct. JZS147 is the Mark I GS300, and the "R" is for right-hand drive.

You should be able to get all these parts via Toyota/Lexus, they're still available as new. Alternatively try places like CheapToyotaParts

ok lol that's what I'm worried about too ! How do I know what's underneath though ? :duh: Actually from what I can make out, I didn't think there was anything critical underneath, and I will try not to go down more than I need to.

Do you mean where to get the connectors ? Or where to get lines that have the right connectors on ? I contacted the guy I bought my brake lines from, and he insists there's only one type for the UK. I think he's wrong though, perhaps he's just been lucky in selling them only for early IS200s in the past ? Might be worth seeing if you can see from the label on your seat belt when your car was built (e.g. could have been built in early 2001 and registered later). From the look of that diagram it would seem that the nut with the connector will be different depending on the type. This is the connector that goes into the rest of the brake line, i.e. not at the caliper end but at the other end, going into the wheel arch.

There are two different bulbs in the heated seat switch, one for the illumination and one for when you switch on the heating. You can easily get these from a Toyota/Lexus dealer for around £3. I haven't tried the motor factors route but then you'll have to figure out what sort of bulb it is (perhaps take in the existing bulb ?). From the parts list it looks like the illumination bulb is 0.84W and the heating bulb is 0.91W.

Will DOT 5.1 bring any benefit other than on a race track though ? I thought that the only real difference was the boiling point, so unless you're getting your brakes extremely hot then surely there's not difference ? I may well be missing something though.

Thanks Bazza. Sorry, I'm not sure I understand what you mean by that bit, please could you clarify ?

Wow the Scientific Atlanta ones are old ones, aren't they ? Or have I got this wrong. I've got a Pace box which itself is pretty old. The newer regular boxes are Samsung, but I thought the V+ box was made by someone else. Just looked it up on Wiki - I see that there's a brand new Samsung V+ box, that must be what you're referring to, I didn't know about that. I wondered about V+, whether it's possible to get a good deal on an upgrade (free upgrade even ?) by threatening to move to Sky and their various Sky+ offers. Anyone tried that ?

989,750

Blimey that sounds scary, you had a lucky escape there ! I switch my TV off standby etc but leave on other things like my HDD/DVD recorder (would be a paint to keep resetting the time), Virgin box etc. I'd certainly be interested to know what sort of Virgin box it was exactly in case the same could happen to mine ! Definitely worth making a fuss about it since it could have been very nasty.

So did you have a faulty FCD when you did yours Chris ? It sounds like from what everyone is saying, the FCD is not doing what it's supposed to. So I guess it comes down to either (a) it's wired in wrong or (b ) the FCD itself is faulty. Are there any other possibilities ?

Is there some chance that the FCD is itself faulty ? Edit - posted at the same time you were editing your posting to ask this very same question Patrik !

ok, I'm a bit stuck now. I've been drilling it out, and I've done a better job than I expected of trying to keep the hole central. I've been increasing drill bit sizes as I've gone, and have worked my way up to a 4.5mm bit. I'm finding it difficult to make progress though, feeling like not that much is happening now in the way of cutting. I'm using some HSS bits, nothing expensive, just something out of Maplin. I've got far enough for part of the top of the bolt to come away, though the rest is still stuck. I'm loathe to keep drilling because I feel it would be easy now for me to start drilling away the sides of the hole in the bodywork without me realising it. What should I do next ? Should I try putting a tap through it ? If so, what size ? And yes, I do feel like an idiot for having to ask so many questions about this

I put the photos directly into the posting for you. You can use the photo button to do that, the one next to the link button. Or on Photobucket there's a ready-made box (the fourth one) under each picture (when you hover the mouse over it) labelled "IMG code" which does this for you :winky:

Load the photos up to a photo hosting website, e.g. Photobucket (but there are tons of others). Then you'll see that it gives your photo a URL.

Welcome back mate ! :D

Sorry Asi, I completely forgot ! Just took some pics, here they are. It's incredibly simple, just a cable tie (black ones obviously suited the black microphone well), tied around the body of the mic and pulled tight, and then the end poked down inside the pillar trim. My cable tie was quite a short one so I didn't bother trimming the end off. Credit to Johnboy who gave me this tip for mounting the mic ! :D

It's an M6 bolt. So that's the thread size, isn't it ?

Sounds like it's on the verge of the dreaded ERR3 to me Does it sit there "forever" saying "waiting" ? I wonder if you give it some time if it'll come up with ERR3.

Nope, the bolt went in with a lot of trouble, which with hindsight is obviously a lot to do with the problem. It's a 6mm bolt. I could probably do with a set of decent mole grips, even if trying them doesn't work. The set that I've got are pretty poor. There are only a few mm of the bolt showing, and now it's more fragile because of my failed attempt to get it out via cutting a slot and unscrewing it. Pretty sure I'm going to have to drill it out now (or use an extractor tool). Steve2006 - loving the sonic screwdriver idea. Could you pop over here in your Tardis please and lend me that ? Or better still, nip back to when I was putting the bolt in to start with, and stop me messing it up ! :D

After driving with the new springs for a few days, I thought I'd give a bit more feedback. I'm impressed with the ride, there's really no difference in comfort that I can notice. I've already got C-One ARBs, so I didn't expect to notice much/any difference after fitting the springs when going round corners, and indeed I was right. Certainly the ARBs made a huge difference and I very highly recommend those as a great mod. I have noticed a significant reduction in the pitching of the car front to rear though, after fitting the TTE springs - i.e. squat under acceleration and diving when braking. The car is a lot flatter front-to-rear now. Of course my car looks a lot better now, not being so high off the ground. Overall, very pleased with the TTE springs ! :D

Welcome. See a Lexus dealer about your tailgate, your car should have a 12 year anti-corrosion warranty. The brake dust is a common problem with the OEM pads, but aftermarket pads can be a lot better.

I used scotchlocks to connect my LED eyebrows (as discussed in another thread), and one of them has stopped working already. Time to get the soldering iron out !

Part number for the TRD rear skirt is 08158-53810