Steviewevie

Hmm. I'm dubious about that one too Chris, since that same part number "PC2-92-4" is used, which is used for non-amplified system cables on various other sites (e.g. here).. Especially because of the price too. I'm also dubious about whether the picture is really of the item you're getting (e.g. the site I just linked). Best bet is to email the seller before you buy and make it very clear you want a lead for a system with amp, then if it turns out to be wrong you've got a comeback.

Indeed, I doubt the guarantee is worth anything. A lot of these sort of programs are just purely money-making scams, they're unlikely to fix anything useful.

This is an example of the correct lead.

EDIT - changed my mind, I think the description is poor on that item, it's not the right one ! That's the one for a car without an amp. It's very misleading because it's described as an amp bypass cable, but if you look the same part number up on other listings/sites, it says it's for non-amplified systems only.

70mm x 9mm. Personally I think the curved ones look even better (follows the curve of the caliper).

As with everything you turn your hand to, they look very nice Chris !

There's a short walkthrough on how to remove the map light holder in the Workshop section :winky:

Welcome Stu :D Might be best to start off a new thread on this, so people here can more easily spot your question. You can use the "New Topic" button to start a new thread. An induction kit won't make much difference to bhp, if at all, the OEM induction is pretty good. I've put a K&N panel filter in my OEM induction, which is more free-flowing (as well as lasting longer), which improves mpg very slightly and slightly changes the engine note. Induction kits make a nice noise and look good under the bonnet, IMHO that's their main benefit. The Prolex one does seem to be quite well-rated, in that it routes the induction away from the hot exhaust manifold (quite a few kits run the induction right over the manifold, which will be counterproductive since that will heat up the intake air). The Prolex one is here. Aztecbandit1 has made some great postings about how to make your own induction kit, try using the search button and looking for "induction". The primary recommendation for me would be to get your car's geometry set up properly, the OEM setup results in a lot of premature tyre wear and poor handling. Since you're in Ireland, a trip to Wheels in Motion to sort this out probably isn't on, but other members in Ireland might be able to help recommend a place to get this done. Also, if you join LOC as a Gold member then Tony Bones at LOC can help make sure it gets done properly to the correct settings. An HID upgrade kit is relatively cheap these days (approx £50 off eBay) and is a great mod. Lots of other things you can do of course, depends if you want to alter the looks, handling, performance (but that typically costs lots of £££££ !) etc.

I don't think there's a guide to the swap, though I did do a guide to repositioning the horns, which is in the Workshop section here. After you install the grille, the horns become a lot more visible and IMHO look pretty ugly, but it's easy to move them out of the way. Installing the grille is easy, just slightly fiddly when it comes to getting the bottom of it to engage with the clips in the trim there. Basically you need to remove two plastic clips on each side (unscrew them about a quarter of a turn then they should pop up, then you pull them out) and a screw in the middle. Then you need to push the bottom of the OEM grille towards the radiator to release it from some clips, then you maneouvre it up and out. Installing the new grille is the reverse of removing the old one. If you have any problems then I'm only round the corner from you in Camberley, so pop round if you need a hand (PM me). Sorry but I can't comment on replacing the mesh in the bumper, I've never tried it, but I'm sure someone else will be able to comment. I imagine you'll need to remove the bumper for that part.

If you mean the TRD front lip, it is available from Toyota/Lexus, part number 08154-53810 It comes unpainted. Similarly, the rear skirt and side skirts are still available too. Join LOC as a Gold member and you'll save much more than the membership fee in the discount you'll get off a single purchase of any one of those :winky:

Oh dear, I've had the same problem ! See my thread on this here.

I'd be very wary of those programs that claim to be able to fix problems for you if you pay for them, what's your comeback if find it doesn't fix it after all ? I doubt if there is one.

Classic !

Actually you need to wait for the red "Security" light to start flashing. It will start on solid, then after about 30 secs it will start flashing and the alarm will be armed etc. Then if you wave your hands about it should set the alarm off. That's how my car works, anyway (1999 model).

I don't know if a failed cat can sound rattly, but could it be gravel stuck in a heat shield ? Or a loose heat shield ? 600 Euros for the cat ? That does sound like the Toyota sort of price, unfortunately. I'm sure someone posted some stuff a while back about getting a cat much cheaper elsewhere, might just have been a used one though, I'm not sure. If I find it I will post a link.

As I said before, even if you did sell the Lex then prices of other cars have fallen too, so there really isn't a big problem (just a psychological one ?).

A sub-woofer is a special type of woofer, isn't it ? Don't think those are sub-woofers in the rear speakers of the SE/Sport, they're just regular woofers. Similarly in a home hi-fi with regular speakers that consist of woofers and tweeters, you wouldn't say you've got sub-woofers in there.

Possibly a silly question, but have you tried asking TTE in Germany ?

The rear speaker ones are really woofers, rather than sub-woofers though, aren't they ?

The geometry should stand up to reasonable knocks, after all it's all bolted up tight again. But obviously if you hit something hard enough then it can knock something out or even damage the suspension (WIM's services will spot suspension damage as well as just bad alignment). I would think that if you take speed bumps sensibly, and try and go over it with both front tyres at the same time, etc, then hopefully you should be ok. Similarly I would have thought smallish potholes would be ok, but if you go into a big one then who knows. It may also depend on things like whether you hit the pothole/speed bump straight on or at an angle (the latter is probably a lot worse).

Fitting a new interior is very straightforward. It shouldn't be hard to find a half-leather black interior, what's more difficult is if you want to find a full leather interior.

Your profile says you've got an SE, if so then you should have the separate OEM amp, which is hidden behind the glovebox. If you open the glovebox and then pinch the sides in, the whole thing will come forward and you will be able to see if you have the amp against the passenger side panel of the car.

Check with Dave at Prolex, he might have some spare ones still.

This is one of the electro-chromic mirrors, I presume, not just a plain mirror ? Unfortunately it does seem that they're very expensive, good luck !