Steviewevie

Channel 11 does seem to be the default for a lot of routers.

989,614

How about if you plug the OEM stereo back in as well as the amp. Does it still work and hold its memory ? Are you saying that you've used a multimeter and the amp bypass cable isn't giving you any constant live ? Have you checked the cable that your amp bypass cable is plugged into, down by the amp, is that not giving constant live either ?

Happy Birthday, have a great day ! :D

Is the red wire not already connected up ? That's your switched live feed, and is grey on the OEM wiring on your model year.

Are the rods and pistons part of the stroker kit that was mentioned a while back ?

ok, I downloaded the install instructions for your head unit, and that shows that it's the yellow wire that goes into the back of the head unit that needs the permanent live feed. The illumination control wire appears to be an orange one with white stripe.

Have you got a multimeter (or similar) where you can check which wires are giving you voltage ? Where have you found the blue and yellow wire, in the OEM wiring that used to go into the OEM head unit ? It would be good if you can verify that it's still powered up (it should be, it doesn't go to the now-disconnected amp like most of the other wires). Does your new head unit instructions say which wire is the permanent 12V input ?

Could they show you (or can you see yourself ?) the car acting differently when you push down on the supposedly "soft" spring as opposed to the other ?

Red springs definitely aren't OEM. No idea how to tell if a spring is "soft" or not. As regards replacing one spring, I seem to remember a while back Tony from WIM saying it was ok just to replace one shock at a time, and them not having to be done in pairs, so I was myself extrapolating that to springs and assuming the same would be true. I could be mis-remembering though, I'll see if I can find the thread (if it exists other than in my imagination ! ) Edit - ok, I found a post from Tony saying the opposite so I think perhaps I dreamt it !

M6 x 12 :winky:

Sounds great Dave, have you tried it on the dyno to see what the new cylinder head is giving ?

Wozza organised the last one, I think.

What colour is the spring ? Does it have any markings on it ? It does seem more likely for it to be a non-OEM spring if it's developed a problem.

Sounds like it's about to break. Are these the OEM springs ? You could just get a new one from Lexus/Toyota, but that'll be expensive, e.g. approx £90-£100 list. Could be worth considering some lowering springs but then again that'll cost a lot more to install four all-round rather than just one. You could of course get a second-hand spring, but you'll need to make sure it's the right height since the OEM springs seem to have varied a fair bit in height depending on model and year.

Are you sure the spring hasn't broken completely ? Have you looked at the spring itself ?

The components are shown in the diagram here. I presume you're talking about the "Heat Insulator" in the diagram shown towards top-right ? Looks like it attaches with four bolts. If you're missing some of those, then I'm sure the parts will be available from Lexus/Toyota. Edit - the part number for the bolts is 90179-06171, approx £1 each (total of four for the rear heat shield).

Post up some pics when you're done so we can see ! :D

ok, you need to make sure the aerial amp is still powered from your new head unit, so there should be a cable from the new head unit's harness to connect up to that, otherwise you will get very poor radio reception. As for the power, yes, blue and yellow is what you need to look for on your model. That will be the permananent feed both to the amp and to the head unit in your OEM wiring. For the illumination, I wired up the dimming wire on my new head unit's harness into a nearby green wire, see a thread on this subject here.

It sounds like you might be describing the power feed to the aerial amplifier (goes off in the same direction as the aerial wire). This is actually a power feed coming *out* of the head unit, powering the aerial amplifier so that you can get radio reception, and is a black wire. What year is your Lex ? The permanent 12V feed (i.e. to keep the memory going) on very early cars is a red wire coming out of the amp from pin 7 and going into the head unit on pin 1. This changed to a blue and yellow wire going into pin 1 on the head unit, from about mid-2000, as far as I can tell.

989,631

Well, it depends. They put out a signal that goes further, which can be good, but it can be bad also because it means that even more neighbours are potentially in range and can potentially interfere with you :duh: The G routers and some early N routers work in the 2.4 GHz waveband, which have just these 3 non-overlapping channels. But, newer N routers work at 5 GHz, which have a lot more non-overlapping channels. So if you have one of these, although more neighbours could be in range (though quite probably not many will be using an N router) you have more channels to give you your own interference-free one. So in short, a newer 5GHz N router may help, at least for the short-to-medium term whilst a lot of people are still on G.

The rear GS300 Sport wheels are very wide, aren't they ? I wonder if they'd be too wide.

Metal valve caps should be fine as long as you put a bit of vaseline on the threads first.

I highly recommend a trip to WIM to get your suspension geometry set correctly, the lowering will completely destroy the settings. If you haven't been to WIM before then your original settings won't have been good anyway, the OEM geometry causes premature tyre wear and non-optimal handling. This is a lot more than just setting the wheel alignment, so specialised equipment as well as chassis expertise is needed. Have a look here for more details on WIM.