Steviewevie

No you won't have to replace drop links when you fit your coilovers. But if any of your drop links are seized, you'll need to replace them with either Lexus parts or Blueprint/motor factors drop links. I'm not sure you can get uprated drop links for the IS200, even if you can you don't need them, the standard ones should do. I think that the Blueprint/motor factors type ones are cheaper than Lexus.

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^^^^ What Rory said. The insurance companies might use the fact that the car was parked illegally to try and perhaps share the blame to a certain degree, but that's down to them.

On the parts diagrams, the GS nav computer has a different part number. Whether this is because it just has a slightly different fitting, or whether it's a totally different item, I don't know.

Underneath the dash on the driver's side, by your feet.

The standard OEM Lexus shocks are gas-filled, not just oil-filled. At least, that's what the original spec says and I don't have any reason to disbelieve that.

I don't think you'll notice any difference from strut braces if you're not on a race track, IMHO they're really for cosmetic effect otherwise. ARBs will make the car handle a *lot* flatter around corners, you'll be amazed at how much faster you can safely take a corner. I would very highly recommend them. I have C-One ARBs combined with TTE lowering springs. The ride comfort is pretty much unaffected, *except* in can be a bit more crash on potholes etc. There's an article on how to fit uprated ARBs here. Be aware though, that the drop-links have a tendency to seize up and need cutting off (and therefore replacing with new ones) depending on the age of your car.

I could be wrong but I believe that was with the 2001 update, along with the bigger screen.

I'm 99% sure that the "Lexus Accessories" brochure that is in my car along with the owner's manual, service book etc, has a picture of a towbar that was an optional accessory, for the saloon at least. Unfortunately my car is in the body shop at the moment (still !) so I can't check and/or scan and post a picture for you.

That won't be working any more. So you need to cut off that connector, and then wire it into the appropriate lead off the harness of you new head unit.

A mechanic who is used to servicing cars day-in and day-out might well not need his diagnostic equipment for most common faults. But for someone who doesn't have the same experience, an OBDII reader (approx £25 on eBay and even less if you already have a laptop) will be a useful tool if the engine check light does come on. I don't disagree that for a coil-pack induced misfire then you can easily find out which coil pack is at fault by a quick bit of experimentation, but how many times does someone post up the details of a fault when the initial response from most here is "what codes are coming up ?" ? As for saying it's the quickest method though, come on ... Plugging injectors in and out and then waiting 2 minutes with the battery disconnected, compared to plugging in a reader, reading the codes and resetting the MIL light ? :winky: How about the guy who posted today with a P1126 code, you're saying you would diagnose that without simply reading the code ?

Yes, 1.1mm is the gap size, but it is preset so you don't need to touch it. 0.4mm is the diameter of the Iridium electrode at the tip, yes.

Whilst I don't know for sure, the pictures of them (IS200 then GS300) in the following two diagrams look quite different, and the part numbers are certainly different, so I doubt if they would fit :(

You've got a new clutch though, haven't you Asi ? Did you notice any/much difference when you put that in, before you installed the charger ?

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Apparently Ford and Honda have delayed their part in the scheme, which is supposed to start today. BBC News story here.

Glad it's progressing Dan. Fingers crossed that it all goes very smoothly now.

£67.99 plus shipping for just the grilles ?! :shutit:

There's a whole Workshop forum here. My posting on changing the spark plugs is here. You'll find loads of other very handy guides too in there.

It's quicker to plug and unplug injectors and listen to the engine, rather than just plugging in a reader and checking the codes ? A code reader isn't just useful for that problem, it can diagnose lots of others too, and potentially saves the price of a dealer telling you what's wrong.

I might have missed something, but I had a quick look and couldn't see any ARBs that were mega-cheap. There were some Cusco ARBs for £260 but once you add shipping and customs charges I doubt it will be particularly cheap. There were also some auctions that could be misleading showing a pic of front and rear Cusco ARBs, but the listing was actually just for the front or the rear, not both. As I said though, I might have missed something that you spotted.

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I can't promise you that the spark plugs will fix the problem, but there's a reasonable chance that it will, and if the spark plugs haven't been changed for a while then it certainly won't hurt ! :)

C-One, that's what I've got, very nice ! :D Don't buy the yellow TRDs that have been listed recently on eBay, while they're good they're also being sold at a rip-off price. Or if you know of anyone who's going to the US and has space in their luggage, you could look at the Hotchkis ARBs sold over there. Current poor exchange rates means that it's probably not worth it to get them shipped over here though, they'll work out too expensive.

If you have an OBDII reader (well worth the investment if you don't have one) then you can plug that in (or borrow one off another member) and read the codes to tell you which coil pack(s) have failed.