Steviewevie

You can buy LOC stickers here. Also, if you join as a Gold member you'll get sent some.

Are you sure the pads aren't getting low ? They're designed to start making noise when they are close to wearing out.

Stop boasting about your Lexus/Toyota discount ! :shutit:

I think you can still see the grey sealing strip, so it looks genuine to me. Though of course it's hard to tell for sure from those pictures. If you got a pic of the inside you'd be able to see where it's bolted on, and I *think* you can just about see that in the first pic at the bottom left.

dam i could have bought a new one!!!!! will it be easy to remove off the bumper? It shouldn't be hard, no. It's bolted on with several screws/bolts and has a sealing strip. I'm sure you can easily get it off if you want to keep your original bumper, but then you'll need to get a new sealing strip.

Are you sure you didn't inadvertently install a free trial version of the paid-for AVG software, which has a lot more in it therefore is a lot bigger ?

The TRD rear lip has a list price of £171.81 at Lexus.

Stav, is it definitely AVG that's using all this memory ? You're looking at the actual size of the AVG processes via Process Explorer or similar, not just total free memory ?

The GS Mark I has the same brakes as the IS200/300, and they are very prone to problems with calipers sticking. See this thread for a current discussion on the subject.

XP. Is that the free edition of AVG too ? Weird, I don't get anything like that.

Is it driveline shunt rather than clutch/flywheel judder ?

Is that the free edition of AVG Stav ? Because mine (Free edition, 8.5) hardly uses any memory at all, as far as I can tell.

According to that chart, it can't be an L edition since it doesn't have a body-coloured roof drop moulding. If the steering wheel is plastic-covered then it's the regular edition. If it's got a leather steering wheel it's either the Z edition or that's been fitted later. I have no idea what a "conlite" is, that appears to be something else to distinguish the Z edition.

AVG for anti-virus and spyware, Ad Aware for spyware too, Zonealarm free version for firewall.

Can't you claim on your insurance ?

Umm, I don't have an auto but I don't think it's a good idea. The auto transmission isn't generally designed to change out of or into Neutral on the move. Just like you must never tow an auto with its driving wheels on the ground, even in Neutral.

Thanks for that, I didn't know they gave discounts. I didn't know till I asked, it's always worth checking. It doesn't help me because I'm supplying the parts (which I got at a very good price anyway, oils from Opie Oils), but good if it helps others.

Petrol is certainly worth a try, yes. Or lighter fluid.

Ouch. That's part of the actuator, so they've broken it off. You'd have to get the whole actuator from Lexus, but that'll cost £200 or so Best bet is to find one from a breaker's. Don't know if that's a part it's possible to get from Blueprint. Or you can see what sort of prices CheapToyotaParts will quote.

What lights do you have on the dash ? Whilst it might well be the coil packs, it could also be something else going wrong. Has any work been done on the engine recently, e.g. cam belt change, service, anything else ? You're a bit far for me to pop over with my OBD II reader, unless you fancy a drive over this way (NW Surrey). I don't know if there's anyone in your area who might be able to help you. The other alternative is to read the codes yourself, even without a code reader, but it's more complicated. The procedure is detailed here, in section 2b. It involves connecting two of the OBDII connector's pins together, which then makes the engine check light on the dash flash in a sequence which blinks out two digit codes for you, which then can be checked in the manual.

British Drift Championship 2009, Round 1 at Donington. The Monster features at 10:33 . Also very briefly in earlier bits. Linky

I had to remove old foam sticky pads when I replaced a number plate. As well as using WD40, which works pretty well, you can also try tar remover (e.g. Autoglm), which is what I used. It was still hard work though and didn't magically fall off.

Whereabouts in London are you ? Perhaps someone with an OBD II reader might be able to help you out ? Using the reader will help pinpoint it, otherwise it's down to experimentation as you say, which will be more complicated if more than one has gone down. Where did you get the coil packs from ? I don't imagine that the slight variation in what's written on it will be a problem. What lights have you got on the dash ? Have you got a misfire ?

ok, I don't like the sound of that. Take a look at the diagram below. The actuator (85207A/85208A) is all one part, looking at that diagram are you saying that part of the actuator has been removed ? If so you'll need a new one and that ain't going to be cheap :(