Steviewevie

This diagram and this one show the various sections of the exhaust/cats/manifold. The manifold contains two pre-cats, and this then joins onto the main exhaust (second diagram), which contains the main cat.

Prolex do one, but it's only for very early cars (don't know the age of yours). So do TDi.

It's a gamble basically, like all extended warranties. You will be betting $2000/£1000 that something or things is/are going to go wrong over the next three years that are going to cost more than $2000/£1000. So like all gambles it's up to you as to whether you think the odds are in your favour or not.

I would guess that they put it on there for all the parts they sell. From their side they're probably going by "better safe than sorry" in terms of part compatibility. I know where you're coming from though.

Demon Plates have some specific sizes on their website, e.g. JDM-sized plates. But if you phone them up they will do whatever custom size you want, I used that to get a custom-sized rear plate for my IS200 (bigger-than-normal-for-UK size).

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I thought that the US's "premium" was basically equivalent to our standard grade petrol, and that they also had a lower grade on sale.

Yeah the rods and pistons are here.

I've used DemonPlates, good service and can do all sorts of custom things if you want.

Found this on eBay. Looks like part of the upgraded cylinder head that SPC Horsham are selling, i.e. just the valves to go with the new head. My guess is the new camshafts and cylinder heads are going to be listed separately (can't see them there at the moment). The new (turbo) manifold is on their shop too, though that's been posted about before.

Found this item on eBay : Is it just me, or does that say "Lexlis" ?

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You're joking ? That's ridiculous. I got charged a similar fee for adding a K&N filter. I suggest changing your insurance company if they're going to take the p**s, find someone who's a lot more friendly to mods - e.g. Sky Insurance.

Why ? I'm pretty sure that it's Lexus Guildford.

I think you're going to have to take the charger off to get the remains of the screws out. Or otherwise find some sort of way of clamping in place the pulley wheel. Screw extractor or drilling out are probably the only practical options. I found that drilling out a snapped bolt was a lot easier than I expect *once* I got some decent (sharp) drill bits for the job.

Cam belt is 60K miles (or 6 years), hopefully it's already been done at 100K ! Diff oil is supposed to be changed every other service, and 100K would be one of those.

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That's interesting, I wonder why it's different for the US ? Maybe due to their petrol having a lower octane rating as standard ?

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The IS200 doesn't have a MAF sensor as far as I'm aware, it has a MAP sensor. Yes, it's definitely worth putting in a K&N filter, it doesn't cost that much, lasts a lot longer than an OEM filter and can help mpg slightly. It probably very slightly helps bhp (1-2 bhp ?) but you won't notice that. I have had no problems with mine in the 8000 or so miles that it's been in and don't remember anyone else mentioning any problems either. If you do clean it and re-oil it yourself (there are kits for this), then follow the instructions because you need to leave it for a while for the oil to soak in, before you re-install it. I'm about to put a fully synthetic 5W30 oil into my car in its impending service. The specs of oil are in the owners manual if you've got one, but there are some threads that Opie Oils posted (one of the traders on here) about selecting types of oil, try searching for their postings (e.g. this one and this one). It's worth checking out their website since they give discounts to LOC members. Different people may well have their own favourites for brands etc, personally I'm not sure the brand matters as long as the oil has a high spec (the various standards etc that it complies with). As for spark plugs, the OEM spec Denso ones are SK20R11, and these are long-life ones. I replaced mine with Denso IK20R11 plugs, which are the high-performance variant. They don't last as long but then again they're cheaper too. Opie Oils seems to have some pretty good prices on those. Just as with the K&N, I don't think you'll notice your car going "faster" with IK20s in, but it can't hurt, and it might help your mpg slightly, who knows.

Fairly recently someone posted up a link to this site which has a starter kit for cf-skinning components.

Great news that you're happy with the spoiler, but bummer about your exhaust :( Jason_l has been offering to give away (free !) a back box here, don't know if he's still got it.

Thanks all. It's pretty clear to me now what I wasn't "getting". I did seem to be understanding the offset calculation etc properly. I did think that Mat's table that I quoted was to avoid scraping the inside, but I now see that it's the opposite, it's so you don't go too far outwards. I see what you mean now, Parthiban, about the "and up" being pretty arbitrary, I think I was taking that a bit too literally. The reason that Bazza's example confused me was because I was mixing up the issues of the centre of the wheel itself, and the position of the mounting surface of the wheel. I think I understand it now ! :D

Hehe, Graham liked my pic then ! That's fine with me though.